Infinite Loch (core range) & Society 2024 | Various ABV

Happy New Year. We Hope.

It was draughty and cold when I flicked on the Dramface light switches and stabbed the ‘pooter power button after what must be our longest break yet. The screens lit up with all the work we’d managed to pull together before we abandoned the tiller on Christmas Eve, it seems like a long time ago. Thank you for your patience.

The good news is I realise there’s still a lot to be getting on with. In cool, fresh light, a typical New Year starts.

I’m looking ahead at what whisky might hold in store; for whisky and of course for Dramface. In terms of the business side, and from only the anecdotal feedback I can gather, the 2024 end-of-year was pretty similar to 2023; a little cooler than most had hoped, but about what they’d expected.

The heady days featuring swathes of battling whisky botherers snatching up whatever comes along as soon as it arrives are long, long gone. Yet, continued talk of premium and luxury persists. I’m sure it’ll be the saviour of a few, but it’s not going to be the saviour of whisky.

My feelings of pessimism have diminished somewhat, despite the awful news from Mackmyra, Waterford, Penderyn and The Single Cask, who all either made significant calls on shutting down or calling in administrators in 2024.

Mackmyra was rescued somehow, but I’m out of the loop on Waterford. Some bluff and bluster, but no real product yet; which is remarkably similar to the story of their whisky. The take away for both Mackmyra and Waterford onlookers is - get a decent core range anchor in place; don’t swamp the already complex market with confusion.

It would take a bold commentator to suggest, confidently, that the bad news will stop there. There will be continued nerves about the future in many areas in the whisky industry throughout this year, but I do see positives. We need to grow the keen and willing whisky-curious; the next generation, the new blood. Luxury bottlings at luxury prices will not do. Tasty, good-quality bottles at fair prices and tangible stories, however, absolutely will. That core range idea raises its head again.

Prices need attention. We’re a little tired of hearing how it’s the supermarket or mass-market bottles that allow the premium 15 year old plus bottlings to see the light of day. It’s the opposite that’s true; premium bottles make the returns that cannot be made on razor-thin margined, high-volume sales. Yet that’s the way of things everywhere, not just whisky. High-volume big brands have their place, but there are few that demand shouting about in 2025, quality isn’t great at that end of things. Not today.

The heavy discounting we saw over the last two months of last year was telling. Scheming from the big boys; large retailers working with large producers to move stock and generate sales. We hardly saw anything heavily discounted from the smaller distilleries; those we care more about today than ever before.

Those that have been playing fair since the beginning didn’t need to do anything. It’s interesting to me that, as we begin 2025, it’s these quarters with the most positive outlook for future stability. It can come off as ambivalence, but I think their smaller scale acts as a protection.

We hear of constant shifts towards less alcohol consumption and cleaner, better living, and it’s easy to see how the wider industry might be spooked by these trends. Yet, good quality, earnest and honest, natural single malts and premium whiskies sold for flavour first actually play into the demands of modern desires and palates. It seems we’re after more from less.

I loved the BBC Kirsty Wark interview Whisky Galore No More? released at Hogmanay featuring the steely and candid views of David Stirk, the openness of Glasgow’s Good Spirits Co. founder Matthew McFadyen and curious takes from Dave Broom.

I do however wish Dave had spoken more outwardly and critically of these issues before the needle started to point south on whisky’s outlook. Still, his contributions and his Tinkerbell anecdote resonate.

The only real flaw in the short piece was the vanilla-wash from the vacuous SWA Chief Exec and ostrich-in-the-sand Mark Kent, but - despite sounding like a meme of every politician ever - it’s still interesting to listen to. It’s what he doesn’t say that betrays the narrative; these are uneasy times. Don’t hop off to listen now, I’ll re-link at the end. Ta.

The truth is, whisky remains a sought after product and consumption and enjoyment remain high. The fact that the arc of natural, organic interest and growth - especially in single malts - peaked and began to temper just as we were dealing with a pandemic has skewed everything. There is more whisky around than ever before - at the exact moment there is more understanding and knowledge than ever before. And, I think, more curiosity too. Producers would do well to help harness this.

The Whisky Lochs mentioned in the BBC piece are in maturation warehouses across the globe, while smaller, Glass Lochs are in retail supply warehouses, specialist retailers, bars, clubs and especially homes. There is more whisky to stick our noses in right now than there has ever been. This tempting landscape, just like the famous Loch of the 1980s, will hopefully encourage the next wave of curious explorers to continue forth.

However, exploration encourages promiscuity. Volatility from fickle punters means that loyalty can only really be engendered by consistent quality at accessible and fair prices. When a product is made so similarly - everywhere - differentiation will not be by who made it or where it was made, but by how it was made, how it tastes and how much it costs to taste it.

That’s where I hope Dramface can continue to help in 2025. We’re almost three years in and already feature a considerable depth of independent opinion to assist the curious whisky exciters.

Thinking of the 1100 reviews and features we’ve built since our inception in December 2021 has me thinking of our place as we are thrown into the fresh light of 2025. Our format is one of stories and personal takes followed by tasting notes, a score and a take away ‘wrap-up’ in our Dregs section. With that I think, understandably, we can occasionally get caught up in the minutiae; a macro focus on individual pieces; individual bottles. It’s nice to take a step back - aided, I’ll admit, by a few days ‘off’ - and take a wider angle view.

I gave it a stab.

Firstly, I glanced over our Values checklist. For those who never venture to our About Us page, they are

Inclusivity
Dramface is for whisky and those who love it. Whoever you are. If you don’t feel welcome here, we’ve got something wrong.

Positivity
We’ll try to be a positive thing in your whisky life, but we believe an enthusiastic and informed critic drawing attention to a definable, negative aspect is a positive thing.

Integrity
We buy and share our own whiskies. Paid-for reviews, advertisements or sponsorships are not available.

Pragmatism
Whisky is big business. We can’t have it all our way, all of the time. But we’ll give it a good go.

All very well. It matters not that no one reads them; as long as we do.

But there is a ‘missing’ word which I kept scoring out and trying to crowbar in elsewhere in the ‘About Us’ page, but somehow didn’t manage. Probably because it’s the most obvious: relevance.

As we stare with fresh eyes into 2025, I ask myself: Is Dramface still relevant?

Well, I suppose that’s up to you. I wonder how much we were missed over our ten day break, because I think it’s only relevant as long as we have an audience; a readership and those who are willing to step up as members/subscribers to ensure we continue. Our growth in 2024 was as unexpected as it was impressive. I hope we have a few more years of growth similar to that.

We don’t have ‘targets’ as we’re sure we’ll find our stride and clip along at whatever pace is permitted by the size of the community that finds value here. It would be great to continue to grow but I realise, year by year, our growth can only be realised by a continued drive to stay relevant and adherence to those values. Enthusiasts writing for enthusiasts. That’s what we’re about. But we do have a problem.

In order to have a healthy, flourishing community in and around us, we need an industry that brings attractive and inspirational products to fortify itself - and everything that flourishes around it.

We are all completely reliant on whisky continuing to be good. I’m not sure that 2025 will be the year that focuses on that, not yet.

Review 1/2

Ardnahoe Infinite Loch, NAS core range official distillery bottling, ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, 50% ABV
£55 and wide availability

However, here I share two examples of how I am filled with optimism for whisky’s future - and ours. For a geek like me, whiskies like these are a pure pleasure to write about. In the Dramface days ahead you’ll find more of this.

Unfortunately, you’ll also find days and whiskies that are less pleasurable. Such is the trial and tribulation of spending our own money on things we’re curious about; sometimes we’ll be thrilled, sometimes we'll get hurt.What’s important for us is that we share it with you. Thereafter you can join the discussion in the comments section; your individual input is hugely helpful to our readership.

But for now and what follows from Ardnahoe, there is no pain. Only pleasure. Prep yourself for some Wally hyperbole.

This is the best new distillery since Ardnamurchan.

You can read my flattering piece on their inaugural here. I have purchased my third bottle of The Best Scotch Inaugural Ever, I hope it’s worth a read.

What we have here is their attempt at that most vital of strategies in whisky - a foundation: a good, solid, reliable and accessible core range product.

We also have a semi-exclusive Ardnahoe Society release from oloroso and PX casks. Both are cracking.

OB up first…

Score: 7/10

**Very Good Indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Let this be a harbinger of what’s to come, a beauty!*

Nose

Dry woodsmoke and salty air; a little soot in there too. Minerals; slate and pebbles. Petrichor. Bright citrus; lemon and lime. Coal shed. Driftwood. Malt extract, apple skins and a freshly opened pack of menthol cigarettes. Decades ago but I still miss it.

Palate

Comfort.

Everything from the nose makes its presence felt in flashes and flickers but I’m distracted by the fruitier arrival and a creamy texture. It reminds me of those occasional really good Signatory Un-chillfiltered Caol Ilas that spring up from time to time and get snapped up. But this is at least half the age.

Letting it settle on the palate brings more fruit; kiwis and pear. There’s sweet lemon and vanilla too, and honestly some hints of newer, younger whisky, but so well integrated it’s only apparent when you sip it alongside something much older. Medicinal lozenges appear on the finish alongside a sooty ashiness and a terrific mouthfeel which brings a sense of balance and optimism.

It takes water so very well, retaining a decent mouthfeel and sharpening some of the fruit, but honestly it hides its 50% ABV so well few of you will reach for the jug, teaspoon, dropper, fingertips or what-have-you.

The Dregs

This is a real and brilliant core range release and a very positive statement from Hunter Laing’s hilltop Islay whisky haven.

In Ardnahoe’s Infinite Loch, we have a new permashelf bottle, albeit with an odd name. It’ll probably grow on me though.

At the price being asked it can go toe-to-toe with anything - and I mean anything - from Islay and compete. In time I’m sure more maturity and poise will come with this bottling but we needn’t demand it, it’s already a cracking entry.

The 5yo Inaugural was better; slightly richer and more together but this is cleaner, brighter and more honest, and the slightly mineralic side is lovely to sit with.

Please let this quality continue on future batches of this. It’s a beauty.

Score: 7/10

Review 2/2

Ardnahoe Society 2024, 5yo limited edition release, ex-oloroso and PX sherry casks, 59.1% ABV
£85 and limited availability direct from the Ardnahoe website

This is the 2024 Society Release. It’s not particularly exclusive, as registering as a society member is free and easy via their website (remember when such a thing was possible for Springbank?).

However, I feel I need to point out the unnecessarily odd trouble I had buying this. In their desire to confirm my age, I found the verification process to be overly clumsy and protracted. I sent an email to say neither of the options offered worked for me, and they seemed to ship anyway. Yet I was receiving emails asking that I prove my age for days after delivery. Nothing lost, but it’s the second time I’ve had trouble ordering directly.

No matter, it arrived in time for Christmas and, in the end, I was very happy…

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*For a five year old malt it’s rude that it’s this good*

Nose

Winter whisky. Chilli chocolate and smoky cigar box lead. Coal fireside, Luxardo cherries and almond butter. Dates, raisins and figs; Christmas pudding. Banana fritter in toffee sauce too. Struck matches and an overall honeyed BBQ pork vibe. It’s posh.

Palate

Alchemy. Says 59.1% on the label but I say nah.

Plummy, smoky jam and berries. The almondy note is there but not quite marzipan. Very fruity but dark and cooked fruits with an occasional fresh raspberry/cherry pop. Lovely mouthfeel again, not a hint of that sulfur from the nose but there is a savoury hit, like honeyed, barbecue pork. The finish is long and chocolatey with bags of ash and soot. Winter can stay a while.

The Dregs

This Society bottling was pricey. It was £85 and at that price it’s no reward for ‘membership’ and I was nervous I was paying too much. Now that it’s here I struggle to find an obvious competitor with the interest, balance or quality. I might - might - source another. So I burn my own price argument.

It is cask strength (although doesn’t taste it!) fully natural with an age statement of 5 years. But to measure it on paper alone is where, like the price, we might starve ourselves of an experience. I really do think we’re witnessing the birth of a particularly fine distillate.

If you’re excited for the reappearance of Port Ellen; brace yourself. Should they make something of this quality in the coming years, Diageo will charge you a kidney for it.

Arm yourself; get to know this malt. It’s excellent from birth.

Score: 8/10

Final Dregs

During my whisky of 2024 thoughts for the Dramface Team piece, I had the Infinite Loch in the line up. I hadn’t yet tried the Society bottling but I suspect that if I had, it may have bumped my Bruichladdich selection. Maybe.

That says a lot, but it’s incredible to me that both my picks for 2024 were from Islay. That’s something I could never have predicted at the beginning of 2024, yet it’s so. Pleasant surprises indeed.

So, whatever this shiny new year of 2025 has in store for us in our whisky fun, I hope it’s more of this. More honesty, quality, fairness and tasty new whisky we never knew we needed.

Whatever happens in this coming whisky year, if these bottles are a marker of whisky’s current trajectory, for those that care, we’re in great hands. I feel confident that Ardnahoe as a distillery - should they continue with this quality - will become one of the sought after greats.

I suspect the only way for legacy producers to compete will be to buy them. That’s not a prediction. But it kinda is.

Now, continue your whisky break with a wee listen of that BBC piece.

Oh! And a Very Happy New Year to you all!

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. WMc

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