Four Forgotten Blends

Four-way blend comparison | Various ABV

What’s hiding in your cupboard?

I must confess, I often find myself magnetically drawn to the idiosyncratic whiskies perched on my shelves when seeking inspiration for a review—those singular bottles with their distinctive stories to tell. 

I can't speak for other Dramface writers, but I'd wager this tendency is far from unique.

After all, the thrill lies in evangelising about something that delights us, kindles our passion, or even provokes the opposite sentiment entirely. Extremes make for the most compelling tales.

But what of the unsung whiskies that languish in the shadows—the mid-tier marvels, overlooked for reasons that might be as banal as familiarity or perceived mediocrity? These are often the whiskies that many have sipped, enjoyed, and moved on from; the gateway drams that first led you down the path of whisky appreciation.

We note through the recent Colonials Podcast Ep.6 (coming to the general public on Saturday but available to Dramface members at time of writing) that this topic has also been weighing on their minds; they shared a few nominations for things that can often be left to languish.

Nestled in this category (or a category below the mediocre in some cases), you can find value, but also an opportunity for rediscovery. I personally found this to be particularly true within the blended and blended malt realms. 

How many of us, on this ever-evolving whisky odyssey, retain relics from our early days? Bottles that now seem quaint, or perhaps (whisper it) gifts that don’t quite meet the lofty standards of our refined palates? Blends, in particular, come to mind as I gaze at the neglected corners of my collection.

Lately, there’s been a resurgence of interest in blends and rightly so. These are not mere afterthoughts, but rather the fruits of master blenders’ extraordinary artistry. Each bottle represents their painstaking efforts to weave together golden spirits into a tapestry of flavour, aroma, and texture. Sometimes they achieve brilliance; other times, the mark is missed – but that is a matter of opinion. Yet the sheer skill required to deliver consistent quality on such a grand scale deserves admiration.

Alas, many blends are saddled with the burdens of low ABV, chill-filtration, and artificial colouring—tragedies that may deny them the vibrancy they might otherwise possess. A higher strength and natural colouring could elevate them to greater heights. Or they might not.

For those fortunate enough to have a surfeit of single malts at their disposal, the humble blend may not often command attention. But even the most devoted single malt aficionado (and I count myself among them, hand firmly aloft) encounters moments when a blend is the only option—a friendly gathering, a mid-flight tipple (Dewar’s White Label on Emirates, anyone? Or Johnnie Walker Black on British Airways?). In such instances, it’s blend or bust.

As a self-proclaimed whisky geek—snob, if you must—I confess my shelves aren't exactly brimming with blends. But after some spirited rummaging and a few reluctant eliminations, I’ve unearthed four intriguing examples, diverse in character and worth exploring. I hadn’t intended to rank them... and yet, here we are.

 

 

Review 1/4

Raer, Oloroso Expression, blended scotch whisky, 40% ABV
£42 still some availability

This 40% blended scotch bottling from the folks behind Jackton Distillery just south of Glasgow was a gift, but it seems it’s still available online.

 

Score: 3/10

Disappointing.

TL;DR
I’m really not sure when I’d ever reach for this

 

Nose

A very red wine forward nose with some orange and meat paste, Bovril and bone broth.

 

Palate

The taste is soft initially and is not as sherry or wine forward as the smell would have led you to expect. There are hints of red berries and tangy orange with a peppery aspect and a pleasant level of salt after. There is a lack of complexity and a short to medium finish. Not a dram I would be rushing back to.

 

The Dregs

Raer (Jackton) are a new distillery based in the vicinity of East Kilbride, near Glasgow. They laid down their first spirit in February 2020 but have yet to produce an inaugural. The Raer Oloroso expression, as I understand it, is sourced spirit that starts its maturation in first fill Jerez sherry casks before being re-racked into an Oloroso Sherry cask.

We all understand that new distilleries need cashflow while they wait for their own product to mature, and Jackton distillery certainly are not the only one to be releasing products procured from other distilleries at this stage, but it isn’t a dazzling blend in any way. 

Does this detract from the buzz and affection they could generate from their inaugural releases with a spirit that is in no way demonstrative of what has been laid down by the distillery? Possibly, but only time will tell, I will look forward to trying the inaugural from the Jackton distillery when it arrives.

 

Score: 3/10

 

 

Review 2/4

Chivas Royal Salute 21yo, Ruby Flagon 2017, blended scotch whisky, 40% ABV
£199, still some availability, £80 paid at auction

Score: 5/10

Average. In a good way.

TL:DR
Smooth, crafted quality, if not exactly the perfect dram

Nose

The nose smells smooth with lavish blackcurrants and dark chocolate, there is a bit of salt and some sulphur hidden at the back.

 

Palate

It is an incredibly smooth drinking whisky with an almost creamy texture on the mouth. There is definite fruit on the palate with oak, a bit of vanilla, chocolate and tobacco. It lingers for a long time, but in an incredibly subtle way, like you would expect from a 21-year-old.

 

The Dregs

This same liquid comes in 3 different coloured porcelain flagons (ruby, sapphire and emerald), but the spirit is the same in each. In terms of packaging, it is unusual and very attractive. It was first created in 1953 to commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. My Ruby Flagon comes with its own red velvet bag which definitely draws attention from visitors, but I have never felt the need for a velvet bag to hold any of my bottles in before. 

Strathisla—Scotland’s oldest working distillery— is understood to be playing a key role in its makeup. It is assumed to be chill filtered and coloured.

The cost of the presentation is undoubtedly high for these, and they are not aimed at the Scottish whisky taste-driven drammer. 

I like this, it is incredibly smooth with medium complexity.  I am happy drinking it in the £80 category, but less so at the full ‘tourist’ retail.

 

Score: 5/10

 

 

Review 3/4

Monkey Shoulder, blended malt scotch whisky, 40% ABV
£29 ubiquitous availability

Score: 4/10

Some promise.

TL;DR
Decent at this price point

Nose

The nose is sour lemon and grass with quite a new make spirit smell, a bit of stilton hiding in there.

 

Palate

The taste is far better than you expect from the nose. It is clearly a young spirit and hasn’t developed a good level of complexity. It is a bit earthy and woody - tasting like virgin oak with a honied vanilla note and some grape, but not wine flavoured at all. A bit oily on the mouth, but then drying. The taste is fairly basic, but gives a pleasant degree of warmth.

 

The Dregs

This is a William Grant & Sons brand and is, I believe, made up of Kininvie (which is in the grounds of Balvenie), Balvenie, and Glenfiddich. It is chill filtered and coloured, but is a fully malt blend and not a bad whisky in any way. 

The brand is quite funky, but if you look at their website it is unashamedly marketed at use in cocktails. I could sip this, I would take it over a Dewar’s white label and definitely over the Raer.

 

Score: 4/10

 

 

Review 4/4

Johnnie Walker Island Green Label, blended malt scotch whisky, litre bottle from GTR, 43% ABV
£43 (£30/70cl equiv.) airport purchase

Score: 6/10

Good stuff.

TL;DR
An underrated classic; frankly a bargain

Nose

Smokey peatiness, with cinnamon and sugar prominent; an absolutely lovely nose that smells well aged.

 

Palate

The first taste to me screams of Caol Ila. Yes it has peat and warms your mouth like only a well matured peaty whisky can, but it does taste of vanilla and caramel, with some apple juice and dark chocolate.

 

The Dregs

Island Green is a slightly smokier version of the classic JW Green Label and has more Islay malt (specifically Caol Ila) in the mix than Green Label, but it is a fully malt whisky blend. Malts from Clynelish (Highland), Glenkinchie (Lowland), and Cardhu (Speyside) make up the rest of the whisky, I understand.

Island Green does not carry an age statement, unlike its counterpart, Green Label, which is aged for 15 years, so we are left guessing, but it must be lower. It is assumed to be chill filtered and coloured.

You can immediately taste the Caol Ila, which at a higher strength is one of my favourite distilleries. Perhaps I am absolutely peat blind, and this will blow away your average peat newbie, but as a gateway to peat, I think this is a solid spirit. It has a lovely level of warmth, but is smooth with a medium finish. It tastes well matured, and while I’d like to know the age, it in no way detracts from the taste.  If I adjusted for price this would be a 7/10.

 

Score: 6/10

 

 

The Final Dregs

Having considered four contenders from the echelon of medium to high-priced blends available at the back of my shelves, and having deliberately avoided the well-trodden path of popular luminaries like Campbeltown Loch - and steering far, far clear of the supermarket bargain bin brands, where does this leave us? Among this quartet, the Royal Salute and Island Green take a deserving bow. Yet, as an unabashed peat enthusiast, my loyalty—and my glass—leans toward the Island Green every time. When you take the price into account, it becomes an undeniable triumph of value — a true steal amidst the smoky allure.

As for the amiable Monkey Shoulder, it’s a dependable companion when single malts are but a wistful dream. I’d raise a glass to it, though it might not ignite passion beyond pragmatism.

And then there’s the RAER. Fit for a cocktail, you ask? Likely not, unless my aim were to concoct mediocrity. I do look forward to the Jackton inaugural though. 

Now, let us talk of an underdog—the powerhouse of creativity nestled on my own shelves; my homemade infinity blend. A self-crafted beauty! It unequivocally surpasses two of these esteemed competitors, in my humble opinion. Proof, perhaps, that sometimes the finest blends are born not in grand distilleries, but in the humble alchemy of one’s own whisky shelf.

Go forth and blend!

 

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. CC

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Charlie Campbell

Some folk find whisky. Others are found. With Charlie it was a little of both and seemingly an inevitability. With his family hailing from Islay’s Port Charlotte and Campbeltown’s Glebe Street, the cratur was destined to seduce him at some stage. Dabbling in occasional drams through a penchant for Drambuie, our native Scot and legal eagle Charlie eventually fell in love with a bottle of Port Charlotte whilst navigating Scotland’s enigmatic NC500 route. From there he followed the road of whisky discovery, eagerly devouring every mile before finally arriving at the doors of Dramface with opinions to form and stories to tell. Take a seat Charlie, yer in.

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