McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt
Pot-distilled | 42.5% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Not what you’d expect, but everything you want it to be.
America’s first single malt
As the first single malt created in the US, this whiskey from McCarthy’s has set a pretty good standard for the category in the land of bourbon.
I was recently asked what would be on my shopping list for new bottle buys - and as we’ve started the new year with value for money being the main theme, I've tended to lean towards indie bottlers or auction sites.
For the last 3-4 months, I’ve found myself buying less official bottles from distilleries due to value and sometimes baseline ABV offered. I’m a big fan of Ardmore, but their Legacy release falls short. Benromach is another delicious dram, but if it was bumped up slightly to 46% from 43%, more people would be singing its praises.
I’ve named two brands that hit that sweet spot of maltiness, smoke and flavour which is right up my street. It’s the flavour profile I tend to look for when I'm on the hunt for something new. As new auction lots drop each month, I tend to put in the same search results: Cadenheads, Loch Lomond, Ardmore and Ledaig to name but a few. I’m also interested in the American single malt whiskey category. It’s just a bit different from what bourbons can offer and brings with it bags of flavour. Having tried a few brands such as Balcones single malt, Woodford Reserve single malt and Stranahan’s (through a work colleague in the US), it’s another flavour profile I try and score a bottle of when searching auction sites.
The watch list grows ever larger every month with the hope that I'll grab a bargain and that everything I'm watching will be purchased without any problems. If I'm lucky, one or two lots will fall within a reasonable price range and the bottles will be mine. Auctions tend to draw a lot of excitement in the hope you’re not outbid, or you’ve unearthed a little gem you’ve never tried before.
So the winning lots are sent to the checkout basket. Next thing on top of my winning bid, buyers commission. Oh dear. What’s that? VAT? Right, I didn’t think about that. Oh, and the small cost of shipping. Living in Northern Ireland doesn’t exactly mean cheap shipping, even though we’re still in the UK. That pesky Brexit agreement hasn’t made purchasing any easier, just more expensive. So I'm wishful in my bids through auction sites, but I’m naive with the final amount when all those costs are totalled up.
The worst was getting a bottle of Signatory Glen Elgin 12 year old, non-chill filtered for £22.50, but it was coming from Europe. Not only did it take five weeks to be delivered, but that lot doubled in an instant. You can get lucky now and again though. The stars align and you come across something unique. That’s how I came across this bottle of McCarthy’s.
In my early sipping days, YouTube reviews were the main source of truth when it came to learning about new bottles. I’ve mentioned before that any smokey or peated whisky was a no from me. It took me a long time to get used to any element of smoke. The third dram I ever sipped was a Highland Park 12 and I gave that bottle to a work colleague as it reminded me of an ashtray on a coffee table which I experienced when I was younger. I also tried Laphroaig 10 and I found it unpalatable. I think my eyeballs rolled into the back of my head.
I can’t get enough smoke in a whisky now and I have no idea what changed. Maybe our palate and preferences change quicker than we think. It was only last year while on holiday in Spain that I fell in love with olives. A younger Hamish would look at me now and think, “Who is this guy?”
But going back to a change in my whisky preference and wanting to try more than scotch, I remember watching Ralfy and Scotch Test Dummies review this single malt. But it wasn’t a scotch, it was from Oregon’s Clear Creek distillery in North America. The US was the land of bourbon to me, and I’d no idea there was such a lift in craft distilling. Single malts from the US were taking off and I was interested in trying anything I could. How much did it differ from a typical bourbon profile? Were there similar characteristics to single malts from Scotland?
Review
McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt, W11-01, Bottled 2011 42.5% ABV
£25 paid at auction (£75 currently online)
Clear Creek distillery was founded in 1985 by Steve McCarthy and was the first producer of single malt in the US. The distillery produces a three year old and a six year old malt. On the bottles is stated that the liquid is “distilled from a fermented mash of peat-malted Scottish barley, barrel-aged for three years.” There’s no specific mention of what type of wood is used or any indication of refill, first-fill or virgin oak casks.
There’s no set motion in US law that defines what a single malt should be in the US. According to the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, a proposal was submitted in July 2022 in order to introduce American single malt as a type of whisky that’s a distinctive product of the United States. With set processing standards such as a fermented mash of 100% malted barley, stored in oak barrels and distilled at one US distillery.
As this malt was created more than a decade before this proposal was put forward, Clear Creek is a part of the American Single Malt Whiskey Commission, albeit with this commission founded in 2016. While Clear Creek is committed to uphold this American single malt whiskey standard, and with the information we have on the front label, we could assume this is 100% malted barley, and Scottish barley at that.
Nose
I’m immediately drawn to how fresh and clean the nose is. The freshness evolves into pine leaves with a hint of brine and peat. It’s quite coastal and almost reminds me of Ledaig. It’s delicately perfumed with a light wisp of hickory smoke. That blends well with a mixture of lavender and lime and there’s a malty touch too. Back to the brine, it reminds me of smoked salmon on fresh wheaten bread. Towards the back of the sniff, I can tease out fruits: plums and red grapes and then a sharp turn into a more earth based aspect. Think green olives and a sprinkling of tobacco. Rounding it all off with some pencil shavings and warm rubber. There’s a lot going on here surprisingly given the ABV. An exceptional nose.
Palate
It’s quiet to begin with with a velvety mouthfeel. There’s a hint of white pepper that builds with smoke and hints of dried wood and a perfumed sweetness. It tastes like parma violet confectionery. A real lingering of smoke and wet earth coats the mouth entirely with a medium finish overall. Another sip and I can tease out crushed, almost over ripe red grapes. A burst of treacle and fudge also. From the nose, the brine and coastal elements announce themselves. That brine sweetens with a light minerality on the tongue. The dried wood from before turns bitter and reminds me of strong coffee. More brine, almost honeyed (weirdly) but surprisingly pleasant. I keep going back for more.
The Dregs
While being an Oregon single malt, the peat-malted Scottish barley really shines here. Sipping blind, you’d almost think this was a Scottish island dram - think Ledaig or Talisker. I got very lucky here nabbing this for £25, when it’s available for a whole lot more online today. I wouldn’t have paid the £75 asking price, and maybe the score would fall down a point due to the price.It’s a delightful tweak to a typical peated scotch.
If you can grab a sample, I'd urge you to try it. I’m now keeping my eye out for the six year old to discover what those extra three years have done to the flavour. This expression didn’t taste like a three year old peated malt. Young peated malt I've tried from Islay has been punchy, obnoxious and in your face. McCarthy’s is delicate, balanced and delicious. If you’re after an easy sipper, this will fit the bill. Wanting to try something different and explore a little? Then try a pour. I’m now even more curious to seek out more American single malt and see how it differs state to state.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. HF
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