Loch Lomond The Open Special Editions
2020, 2021 & 2022 Releases | 46% ABV
Score: 8/10
Something Special.
TL;DR
One of these siblings forces the other two to work very hard indeed.
Credit where credit is due
One of these whiskies comes out the heel of the club and while it lands safely, it hits the light rough. Another leaves the toe but finds the short grass. The third pings right out of the screws. It sings as it flies; a thing of beauty. It splits the fairway, right down the middle in an arc of pure joy, it’ll have you coming back for more. You’d like to know which is which. I’ll get to that.
In case it isn’t obvious, this is an overview of the last three of Loch Lomond’s releases for The Open golf championship. I could’ve gone full Monty with the golf analogies, but I’ll stop there. It’s probably worthwhile mentioning there are two earlier releases, but they’re not included. I didn’t buy them. I haven’t always enjoyed Loch Lomond as I do today. I’ll get to that too.
Anyway, I’m focusing on what I have and what may still be available - depending on where you are. However, I would like it to be something a little more than that, I’d like it also to be about a specific and interesting mindset, one that is not typical in whisky.
First we need to jump back to 2020, as an oblivious world was about to be painfully reminded of just how fragile everything actually is. Throughout March of that year, the majority of the population was sent home and asked to stay there. Suddenly, amid fear, confusion and uncertainty, there were a lot of very bored people indeed.
Keeping this to whisky, imagine many distilleries either being temporarily shuttered or quickly switched over to support the surge in demand for sanitiser. Outside of this, entire teams were suddenly trying to fathom how to work remotely, or they were sitting at home, on furlough, numbly staring at walls.
Through technology, many quickly found things to do; organising remote events, tastings, broadcasts, online festivals and meet ups. Brand ambassadors, sales teams, owners and whisky makers alike went from being suddenly idle to spending hours in front of a screen, on video, for most of their working day. Everyone needed a webcam and nobody needed trousers. It was weird, but everyone adapted.
One of the things that came out of this was that, suddenly, you felt like these people were, well, accessible. New takes, perspectives and nuggets of information were made available. Not through distanced quotes or tweets, Instagram stories, generically formulated press releases or website copy, but from a real, moving, talking face. It mattered not where you lived, as long as you had the internet, you were invited. It was really quite refreshing. People started to share the whys and the hows; the interesting words and facts not covered by marketers, cartons or bottle labels. We got to hear so much more. A silver lining to an odd, surreal cloud.
It’s been vaguely acknowledged for a long time that a huge pool of knowledge exists among the booming community of whisky enthusiasts online but, interestingly, during this period, many behind-the-scenes types suddenly understood the depth of that knowledge pool. They also realised there was a thirst for more.
These days, things have moved a little back towards the too-busy-and-too-otherwise-focused for most which is understandable, but the impact has been felt and there remains something of a hybrid in place. Virtual events have become normalised and you’re often treated with access to a very knowledgeable presenter, familiar face or engaging host. Many have come to enjoy it. In exchange for sharing their insight, they are rewarded with genuine appreciation and, most importantly, very useful feedback. It’s all very encouraging and symbiotic. Not perfect, but better than it once was.
Yet, there are some out there who have always been aware and accessible. Those of a canny mind, who were not afraid to step into the realm of the enthusiast - through whatever platform - with honest, pragmatic and genuine insight.
You know where I’m going with this now, right? Because one of those was Loch Lomond Group’s Master Blender, Michael Henry. This gent’s whisky star, for the last few years, has been steadily rising. I think for at least a couple of reasons.
a straight neck and a swan neck pot still at Loch Lomond
Firstly, he’s been the visible helmsman guiding the renaissance of a distillery once regarded as having nothing of interest for the serious whisky drinker. These days, that’s no longer the case and it’s a distillery on the lips of many whisky fans eager to tap into more of what this unique place has to offer. It has taken time, and there’s still some way to go, but Michael has somehow gently steered the ship, perhaps not a full 180º, but certainly in a much more encouraging direction. Step by step, the wizardry and alchemy that focuses - almost to belligerent fault - on distillate first, is being slowly but widely understood.
This is no small thing. Let me attempt to draw the curtain back on just some of the complexity at Loch Lomond in Alexandria. There are three different types of still used; traditional ‘swan-neck’ pot stills as well as straight neck pot stills (which may or may not employ a cooling ring), there is also a copper column still - for malt. Furthermore, through use of both peated and unpeated malt, varying fermentations, differing collection strengths and cut-points the focus is very much on creating as much flavour as possible in the spirit itself - before it even touches a cask. Shining a questioning torch on the notion that “the wood makes the whisky”, Loch Lomond makes you realise that isn’t actually true. You cannot, as should be plainly clear, just distil any old turd and rely on casks to polish it.
Loch Lomond’s ‘small’ column still
Through this complex and unique set up, Loch Lomond can tie even the most dedicated whisky geeks up in knots. Even the SWA at times. It takes a patient and knowledgeable mind to skillfully share these complexities so that they’re not only understood in themselves, but also the effects they have on the spirit. With a bewildering array of potential spirit styles, Michael is, as the community has come to appreciate, almost always on hand to help and explain. He has made himself available.
Secondly, the whiskies being released today are demonstrably better than they ever have been. In parallel, the business model of Loch Lomond has had to be tweaked somewhat over time. The releases of the past that founded their reputation as a stack-em-high-sell-em-cheap producer has had to be realigned. This is tricky at times because often business babies can be lost in tossed-out bathwater. They still have the ability to produce low-cost or interesting whiskies under contract or for multiples such as off-licences and supermarkets at home and abroad (The Glasshouse for Langstane is an excellent example of this), but they have also steadily improved their core range to the point it’s becoming difficult to ignore. They can now present their product as a serious contender alongside many long-established incumbents.
Michael Henry
It’s proving successful. These days, it’s somehow able to appeal to both casual drinkers as well as more invested customers who like to get their geek on while they sip. Peated, lightly-peated or unpeated? They’ve got it covered. ‘Malt’ produced through their dedicated column still? Yep - both peated and unpeated - of course. Premium and well-aged releases? Yes. Exclusives, single casks and commemorative releases all with a different take on their individual make up? No problem. All available. In the background we hear rumours of experiments with grain, yeast and distillation that make us curious for the future.
“We understand the distilling process so intrinsically we can vary this to achieve the exact flavour we want before the whisky enters the cask.”
A quick glance at the Loch Lomond website usually turns up an interesting bottle or two, but without mentioning supermarket or travel retail expressions, special releases or exclusives, in their core range alone they have a NAS, three 12 year olds, a 14 year old and an 18 year old. All except the NAS Original are 46% ABV and non-chill filtered. Should you find yourself feeling flush while you read this, they also have a 21 year old, a 30 year old and, if you’re feeling either silly rich or drunk, a 46 year old.
However, dialling in on their core range, I personally have invested so much in their product in recent times, that I now have on hand every one of them. Except for the rich and drunk stuff. The icing on the cake? None of them were expensive. All this, and more, from a distillery that I tried a decade or so ago and imagined I’d never go back. I can’t help but read the influence of Michael Henry into all of this, especially as every bottle now proudly carries his signature. An example of his tireless support can be found in this Dallas article on some of the releases and styles from SMWS.
Anyway, back to the matter at hand and something else to come from the events of 2020. Loch Lomond is the official “Spirit of The Open”, partnering the Royal & Ancient, the body that’s concerned with one of Scotland’s other big ‘exports’; golf. They’ve sponsored The Open Championship in this way since 2018. They have an agreement for five competitions with the final being 2023. Those with the ability to count, unlike me, may realise that’s six, but of course there was no competition in 2020. However, there was an unofficial release from the distillery which marked The Open that never was. While it wasn’t released under the partnership, we’ll count it as such for the sake of this review. Using Chardonnay wine yeast, it was a little off-piste, but for the whisky enthusiast - spoiler - it’s the highlight here, but it also highlights some of the challenges a producer can face.
Each year there are two main releases. There’s a more exclusive “Open Course Collection” release which typically has an outturn of around 3000 to 4000 and a retail anywhere from £150 to £225. That’s not what we’re looking at here. These are the “Open Special Editions” which, in Michael’s words; “is to be a credible whisky that brings new people into Loch Lomond through its exposure with golf. It’s priced so that it can be bought by the person buying it to try themselves or as a gift for someone else.” The 2022 release sits around a pretty sober £45.
The first three releases were all natural colour, the last two have had at least some caramel added. This was a deliberate response to, as Michael states “a negative reaction to the light colour of the liquid”. This is a shame. While Loch Lomond is not unique in this respect, there’s real pressure to conform to a market expectation for darker whisky. However, the more we rely on adding colour to appeal and appease, the more we strengthen the rod in scotch whisky’s own back.
pretty colours, left to right; 2020 12yo, 2021 & 2022
There’s real money at stake trying to convince casual whisky drinkers that paler is sometimes better, but the long game is often the smart one. Loch Lomond would be held in high regard and celebrated more if it was brave and confident enough to proudly take its malt in that direction. Instead of an interesting renaissance distillery, it would no doubt become a firm favourite.
Caramel colouring remains an affront to malt whisky. When the story breaks that the presentation of the ‘world’s finest spirit’ is often a lie, it would be nice if Loch Lomond Group were not part of the fallout. While they have taken considerable steps to reduce their reliance on E150a, with many natural releases as well as reducing the amount used in coloured expressions, I’d prefer to read “Natural Colour” on all their labels. Just as I would on all scotch malt whisky.
Will I ever see the day? I’ll keep dreaming. Meanwhile, let’s tee-up these three. Sorry.
Review 1/3
My intention here is to give an overview of the three that are, at time of writing, still somewhat available. The 2020 12 year old is almost gone but there are still a few here and there that pop up (if you find any Wally is very interested), but the other two are still plentiful. If I’m honest, the reason I bought the 2021 and 2022 releases was squarely on the back of the eye-popping moments I’ve had over many a glass of their fascinating 2020 release.
Loch Lomond 12yo The Open Special Edition 2020, 46% ABV
Limited 3000 bottle outturn, a few still available (if you’re very lucky) £50-55
This one is the only one to bear an age statement. It uses 100% wine yeast fermented spirit. This is using wine yeast and distillers yeast - it‘s not possible to get a full fermentation with wine yeast alone. With no competition in 2020, this took the opportunity to be a little different as an “unofficial” low outturn compared to the typical OSE releases. According to Michael Henry, it was aimed more at a higher knowledge base of whisky drinkers rather than more occasional drinkers.
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
A unique and moreish fruit and fizz bomb, Wally needs more.
Nose
Fresh white grapes sparkle, a little citric acidity and a sweet vinegar. Light malt and vanilla offer up fresh green apples and a light sugary sweetness. It’s alive and bright. Water brings a pop of grapefruit and citrus peel and a fresh floral note, although more like a florist than a perfume shop.
Palate
Bright and fizzy. Sweetness on arrival suddenly morphs to a dryness. The effervescent texture is lovely, it distracts a little from the flavours. A second sip. A third. Green banana joins the citrus and white grape notes. Some sweet lemon, like drizzle cake. Soft pepper on the finish, everything is elevated by the feeling that this fruit-fest is carbonated, especially towards its ridiculously moreish finish.
Score: 8/10 WMc.
Review 2/3
Loch Lomond The Open Special Edition 2021, 46% ABV
Global outturn, still available. £40-45
This 8-10yo uses a partial new American oak finish to “enhance the sweet character” of Loch Lomond’s signature style.
Score: 6/10
Good stuff.
TL;DR
A sweet and modern take with some edge to keep things interesting.
Nose
Macadamia nuts, sweet clementine and citronella. A little cider vinegar. There’s a tobacco note, but more like the smell of a box of cigarettes. Lily pollen, cedar wood and brown sugar.
Palate
More grip and texture than the sweet nose suggests, nice to find a little dryness too. Some fizz there, but less of a carbonated fizz and more akin to light spices and alcohol. Think Flying Saucers sweets and an orangey sherbet. Some oak and cedar wood mixed with orange juice, Demerara sugar and sweet citrus peel brings some zestiness. Slightly cloying on the finish, but also slightly moreish. Just a little on the sweet side.
Score: 6/10 WMc.
Review 3/3
Loch Lomond The 150th Open Special Edition 2022, 46% ABV
Global outturn, widely available. £42-45
Here we have 8-10yo with a partial Claret finish to add some red fruit character to build on the orchard fruit character of the spirit itself. The finish was 20% 3yrs Red Bordeaux and 10% 6 months so 30% in total. 70% is unfinished 8-10yo.
Score: 5/10
Average. In a good way.
TL;DR
One for those of a sweet tooth.
Nose
Wine gums, blackcurrants, dates and fudge. Cinnamon rolls, orange cordial and sweet, resinous oak.
Palate
A sweet and syrupy arrival, a slightly gloopy texture here, exaggerating that sense of sweet orange cordial. Oaky sweetness. Time and water bring a white grape tartness and a little citrus to brighten what’s, overall, a pretty sweet experience. Cinnamon makes an appearance once more on the finish and there is a little fizz out there too, with a saccharin note. In the empty glass, there’s a puff of woodsmoke.
Score: 5/10 WMc.
The Dregs
There remains something of a concept of whisky-for-whisky-drinkers and whisky for casual drinkers and “beginners”. In my own experience, the lines between these two are not so clearly defined. When I’m presented with a “casual” whisky drinker, especially if I talk them through what’s in their glass, in almost every case they’re just as likely to be drawn to the interesting, the fresher, the more “standout” and less sickly-sweet styles of whisky. I know, I hear you. I’m leading them, they can sense my preference and passion for things that are “better” in my view. Could be. No doubt.
In terms of responding to market demands, I don’t know how these dynamics work. How do markets demand styles of whisky? Loch Lomond clearly know what they’re doing and their depth of feedback from their staff, agents, events and tastings will be vast. But for me the contrast here is huge. There are two sweet and ‘easy’ bottlings that are very good sipping whiskies, and another that I just can’t get enough of. Is it a coincidence that it’s the natural one? Is it all about the wine yeast? Is it both of those things? I think so, coupled with a little serendipity to encourage a confident blender to release their first ever wine yeast release. It’s also the most daring and the most interesting, for any whisky drinker.
The 2020 is clearly the standout. It was distilled in 2007, suggesting that, if they’ve kept this up, there’s lots more of this liquid to come. If so, there are exciting times ahead. But when it arrives, I hope it’s plentiful and please, please, let it be natural. It’s unique and it’s beautiful. The other two are fine, and if you pick them up you’ll drink happily. But ultimately they’re fairly typical, modern also-rans. This wine yeast liquid and a confident step towards natural presentation could help elevate this producer on to everyone’s radar.
As you’ll have noticed from the quotes and some details for this write up, Michael Henry, once more, has made himself available here. We’re grateful for the no-strings candour and insight. Of course there’s a huge team of talent and dedication behind everything that’s happening at Loch Lomond, beyond just a single individual, but I believe I’m not alone in thinking that what’s ending up in our glass these days has much to do with the efforts and vision of an atypical master blender, who is very generous with his time. Through openness and accessibility, he removes a slant of elitism from things - not only with words, but with actions and an attitude that carries a sense of like-mindedness and passion. What prevails is understanding and acceptance.
Is it too much to suggest that he’s able to, when the occasion suits, think like ‘one of us’? In any case, it’s an open mindset I think many could take a great deal of inspiration from.
These three whiskies today are a mere snapshot. If Loch Lomond continues to improve in the next decade as they have in the last, there are many treats ahead for all of us to look forward to.
Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. WMc
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