Benriach The Smoky Twelve
Official Bottling 2021 | 46% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
It might shuffle to the forefront of your peaty shelf
A surprise peaty unifier from Speyside
The mornings and evenings now come with a tinge of crispness. The summer that has largely baked the northern hemisphere this year is losing its grip. At the beginning and end of the days now, I feel that hint of autumn in the air.
Having outdoor gatherings around the grill are phenomenal with an autumnal crispness in the air. No doubt grilling is great In the summer, but inevitably people start complaining about the heat, or, where I live in Connecticut, when the sun starts to set, the onset of mosquitoes is a constant battle. I hear that midgies are even worse, so I feel for everyone in Scotland. Winter, of course, is not a realistic option for grilling… although I have a few die-hard buddies that will shovel snow to gain a path to their grill. Therefore, for me, spring and autumn are the ideal times to cook outdoors as it’s not unbearably hot during the day, there’s a nice coolness in the evening and bugs are largely a non-factor. So, for this autumn night when things were forecast to be calm and enjoyable, I decided to play with fire.
Whisky, as I have learned, is at its best when it brings people together. Somehow, malted barley has a way of weaving a bit of magic into a gathering. So, on this night I invited three friends over to enjoy a barbecue and later, a nightcap. While this doesn’t sound as if I am walking a tightrope or juggling chainsaws blindfold, I broke with recent unspoken protocol and harkened back to a simpler time in America when invites went out without worry of political viewpoints.
You might have heard that, at times, people can seem a little unhinged here in the United States. Perhaps the unhinging started some time ago, but it certainly has accelerated as of late and become more of a divide. These days are not the proudest moments of our history. Otherwise calm and rational human beings go off the deep end from time to time, triggered and conditioned from the vitriol that permeates our airwaves. As such, social events can become inadvertent minefields to traverse if someone utters an unfortunate word. A careless mention of a buzzword or political agenda item has the potential to transform an otherwise comfortable affair into the opening scene of Saving Private Ryan. On this night, however, I threw caution to the wind - I just wanted to enjoy my mates instead of worrying about who might throw an incendiary over the hedge… and some of my mates are known to be a bit forward. As it turned out, I invited two guests who are politically on one side and a guest who is decidedly on the other.
The evening had been quite good with offerings of smoked ribs and brisket. There were some briefly tense moments as one guest blurted out consternation with what he perceives as an affront by politician “A”, but everyone - not unlike the theory of mutually assured destruction - hesitated for a second, thinking better of a response and moved on to other topics. Some hesitation lingered, but a conscious effort by everyone was made to focus on the plates of smoked and spice-rubbed meats before us. The hesitation melted away a bit with talk of the delicious barbecue.
After dinner, we walked out on to the deck for a nightcap or two. These friends are all whisky folk and we all came to a quick conclusion that a peated whisky to end an evening of smoked meat and cooling temperatures would be heavenly. There was, however, some disagreement as to what to pour. Instead of individual choices, everyone agreed we all should drink the same thing and share thoughts about our communally enjoyed spirit. But what bottle? Friendly but spirited suggestions ensued. This was the type of disagreement I was hoping for.
The suggestions and recommendations went back-and-forth for roughly 15 minutes. The engaged and spirited banter was a tonic and we were all laughing and discussing all things malt. Despite calls for Ardbeg, Laphroaig, Talisker, Caol Ila, and Lagavulin, little did they know I had something up my sleeve. I put my hand up and tell the boys that I think it’s a good time for a blind flight of four core range peated malts, as I want to get feedback on a bottle I had purchased that was not among the usual core range peated suspects. All were in favour of being guinea pigs for this most delicious of surveys.
In the mix were two Islay expressions, one from Skye and the fourth was my recent purchase of which I am quite enamoured. As the flights were given and each sampled in turn, it was fascinating to watch the other three dissect and analyse what was before them. Peatheads all, there were constant appreciative utterances of approval for each. However, in ranking the four malts my recent purchase - a Speyside peated single malt - ranked first with two of the three, and placed second with the final scorecard. Everyone had different ideas about which Islay whiskies were before them. Two correctly identified that a Talisker was among the flight. One correctly spotted the Ardbeg Uigeadail in the mix - but none could identify the fourth, and most successful dram that night.
“since May 2021 a proper visitor centre is in place offering both tours, tastings and the possibility to purchase BenRiach single malt”
Prior to the gathering, I had heard about Benriach, but had never before had the pleasure of owning a bottle. Recently I found a bottle of Benriach’s The Smoky Twelve and after reading the box at the store and recalling some reviews I’d read about it, I made the choice to have the bottle come home with me.
I told my buddies that the fourth bottle was a core range Speyside. They are all surprised as a core range peated Speyside is not usually forefront in peoples’ minds when thinking about a peated single malt.
I brought out the bottle and everyone was impressed. This blind flight session was simple confirmation of my own tasting and thoughts of the bottle. I’d expected a good dram, but what we all found was a whisky that was simply wonderful. Not a peat monster, but rather a well-balanced experience of fruit, creaminess and mellow peat.
We sat on the deck for another two hours laughing, talking about whisky, and losing track of time. By the time we realise the late hour and then got up, all commented on the fact they hadn’t had that much fun and laughter in a long time. The amber liquid is, indeed, magical.
Review
Benriach The Smoky Twelve, Official Release, 2021 bottling, 46% ABV
£45 / US$65 wide availability
Being from the States, I do like and enjoy American single malt. The ever-growing expanse of the American single malt landscape beckons me and I hear that siren’s call with joy and enthusiasm. That said, I always appreciate Scotch single malt as my emotional whisky home. So, I will beg your pardon with an occasional return (as here) to Scotch whisky in my reviews.
There remain a good number of Scotch whisky expressions I’ve yet to sample and, until recently The Smoky Twelve was on that list. As was the case with my guinea pig buddies, I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle. When one thinks of a core range peated dram, thoughts immediately start with Islay. However, as we know, among the varied types of whisky, there’s a huge and ever-growing variation within each type of expression. Going from a Laphroaig 10 with its biting, slap-in-the-face peat to Lagavulin 16’s smooth and sweet taste, to a Balcones 1 Peated Texas Single Malt with its brown sugar and oily nectar, we have enormous range within the peat sphere. All bring great and different experiences to the table.
Nose
A fruit scent like apples and orange pith mix with a light, not-too-sweet peat. This is not Islay peat with iodine or medicinal notes nor any salinity. This peat is more herbal. It’s a mellow campfire in the wind that makes room for the layered scents of sweetness. Hints of sweet wine, vanilla, orange marmalade and oak join the party.
Palate
The first taste brings a wonderfully integrated experience of fruits, dark chocolate, vanilla custard and smoke and by mid-palate the campfire smoke curls in a bit more. It becomes more prominent on the finish, but it’s not intrusive nor a bold smoke. Fruit and peat expertly balanced. There’s no alcohol bite, but you’re aware it isn’t less than 46% ABV. There is a weight to it, but no oiliness or cling for mouthfeel.
With a drop of water the smoke becomes a bit more prominent on the nose and on the palate. The fruit is a bit opened up but the peat comes a bit further to the forefront.
The Dregs
The distilling process and history that makes The Smoky Twelve’s flavour profile is as interesting as the taste is good. It’s a combination of unpeated and peated spirit and over its minimum 12 year ageing, it’s matured in three different casks — bourbon, sherry, and Marsala wine. This combination yields layers of flavour that cascade over the tongue, while the combination of fruit, spice, peat, and hint of creamy vanilla custard make me stop and savour.
That we can be beneficiaries of this distillery’s whisky is also rather remarkable. The distillery was founded in 1898 (designed and owned by giants of whisky, Charles Doig and John Duff, respectively) but mothballed between 1900 and 1965, and again from 2001 to 2004. So, despite the distillery being 124 years old, of those years, it was mothballed for more than half of its lifetime.
The whisky was mainly used for blends until 1994 when the distillery released its own single malt. And, in 1998, Benriach began creating triple distilled whisky which is still done once a year. Fast-forward to 2004 when Benriach was purchased by three entrepreneurs, headed by veteran distiller Billy Walker, with backing from Infra Trading. Benriach went back into production and as of that year has not looked back, bringing on Dr. Rachel Barrie as the distillery’s master blender.
From this relatively newly re-generated distillery, we have some masterful liquid. The nose and palate, noted above, are wonderful and though the bottle clearly states the whisky is 46% ABV, there’s no indication on the bottle of added colour nor any indication of chill-filtering. A peek at the Benriach website, however, clearly states that The Smoky Twelve has “natural cask-imparted colour”; a most classy way to say “no colour added”. Bravo!
However, I couldn’t find any information or comment on the website on chill filtration. It’s frustrating to think how much better the dram would be if it was left alone and not chill-filtered. It remains a good dram, but I can imagine it with all of its oils and esters intact and not stripped from it. The mouthfeel is not oily or clingy which leads me (even before looking at the website) to think that chill filtration has been done. [this is likely the same policy as sibling Glendronach, who have oddly removed this statement across the range - Ed.]
The rant about chill filtration aside, the whisky makes a remarkable pour.
I understand that when many go to the whisky cabinet to get a peated single malt, Benriach may not be the initial thought. On certain days, the medicinal and abrupt experience of a young Ardbeg calls to us. On other occasions, the wistful thoughts of what brought us into the whisky sphere might lead us to Lagavulin 16 (though I certainly do not want, nor will pay the cost, for it any longer). Of course, different expressions bring different experiences whether memorable or not.
Cutting through my peated fare, however, is The Smoky Twelve. It’s toward the very top of my peated whisky rankings for its integrated, smoother, and campfire peat that dance together in harmony with layers of flavour. At $62.99 USD, it’s also reasonably priced and widely available. It doesn’t knock the the more established peat-driven brands off the shelf, but it is its own experience and is now the front of my shelf. Find a bottle and try it when you have a fruity peaty itch to scratch.
To conclude, I was left with two satisfying things: First, I was able to confirm my initial thoughts as to the satisfying nature of The Smoky Twelve. It’s a most welcome and delicious addition to the whisky cabinet. Well crafted, available, and reasonably priced. A fantastic find, for sure.
And, next, I was also reminded that, when shared, malted barley spirits still provide magic as strong as ever to bring people together. The water of life, indeed.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. OS
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