Ballindalloch Trio
Edition 1, Bourbon & Oloroso Single Casks | 46% ABV
Good things come to those who wait
These past few weeks have been an exhilarating period for whisky aficionados who have tracked the paths of Ballindalloch and Harris to their inaugural launches.
Both of these distilleries should be applauded for their patience, as they waited longer than most before leaping into their inaugural dates as eagerly as a lion pouncing on its prey. The temptation to bottle as soon as the clock hits three years is almost irresistible despite not showcasing the whisky at its best.
We have witnessed, and perhaps suffered through, an excessive number of immature whiskies that have been infused with wood-forward tastes at rather young stages. Other than the initial releases being bought up by collectors, subsequent editions have not sold nearly as well. Many of us have grown cautious of whiskies that masquerade as 'ready to drink'.
In the long run, it is important to consider the potential negative impacts that rapid release production may have on a brand. Today, with such a wide range of options available, I am unlikely to revisit a whisky establishment if I have experienced the unpleasant taste of an immature whisky, or the disappointment of an ill-defined scotch.
You can easily purchase Lochlea, Eden Mill, and Nc'nean, among many other options available. These three brands are merely highlighted as examples among the growing selection. Even, dare I say, Waterford faces challenges regarding its brand. Releasing an inaugural bottling is expected, but the true challenge lies in maintaining interest and securing repeat purchases. These businesses must plan for a wider appeal and greater prominence in the market, although they may still maintain a dedicated following.
I'm a supporter of my nearby distillery, Daftmill, but I no longer feel compelled to experience or possess them all. Life is too fleeting and our options too plentiful to simply retrace our steps. It is better to explore new avenues that lie before us.
The significance of structured business planning cannot be overemphasised. Nonetheless, the Ballindalloch and Harris distilleries waited for an extended period of time, despite others bottling younger. Harris began bottling at the age of five, while Ballandalloch waited until they were seven years old. Both distilleries are fortunate to have the financial support to exhibit such patience. Their actions suggest a focus on whisky rather than the business requirements that influence the actions of other producers.
I am delighted that Ballindalloch has introduced a 100% ex-bourbon matured whisky as the first release in its Seven Springs Collection. This debut whisky implies that it is more ‘ready’ for consumption than others, and can hold its own, without being dominated by the overwhelming influence of wood, a common occurrence in the industry.
I have good memories of Ballindalloch and its team, as I once spent a day there participating in their Art of Whisky Making tour option, which was truly captivating. This remains one of the best whisky experiences I've ever had. Not only demonstrating the extensive knowledge of the team spanning decades, but also their fervour for crafting a whisky that separates itself from the rest.
Sadly, I did not have the opportunity to visit the distillery upon the release of the initial bottlings. Undoubtedly, those who patiently queued outside the distillery buildings were mainly motivated by investment opportunities. This is the current state of the whisky market, and multiple distilleries leverage this demand by releasing various editions and using PR language like "rare" and "ultra-rare".
Distilleries also come together through the utilisation of awards as a means to encourage coverage and sales. We all have an innate understanding of the importance of gold, silver, and bronze awards. Ballindalloch is no different in this respect, as demonstrated by its recent recognition from the San Francisco Spirit Awards. A paid-entry event that benefits all parties involved, except for consumers.
The whisky was awarded double gold at this year's event. Is it really necessary to strive for a higher accolade than gold? Would it not suffice? Has the award's value diminished due to the numerous golds awarded over time? Does Usain Bolt feel cheated at merely being awarded gold?
Of course, there is always a different perspective to be considered, as I discovered during a recent conversation with Colin from Ballindalloch. His gratification over receiving the award was evident, and he expressed a genuine appreciation for being acknowledged by a wider audience, which was pleasing to see.
The art of critiquing whisky is a precious skill. We see consultants, writers and so-called experts overly eager to give their opinions. Rarely do they ever bite the hand that feeds. My personal preference is to rely on recommendations from reliable sources. Awards hold no significance for me, and this is based on personal experience. A great deal of attention is given to awards that claim to be independent or involve multiple whisky experts from across the media. I've always found the subject matter intriguing for investigation.
Wouldn't palates inevitably become fatigued, dull, and overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of whiskies showcased for competition? Such a reaction would be entirely expected. Furthermore, the pay-to-enter system is not indicative of the broader market. Relying on a small group of 'experts' to determine the best whiskies before the award process begins is also insufficient.
My own approach is traditional and often perceived as unexciting. An evening whisky tasting featuring one or two preselected offerings. Prepopulated by a refreshing fine brew (my current choice is Ethiopian Koseret) to revitalise one's mind. A dedication to personal opinion and ethical uprightness, manifested in my score allocation with no embellishment, bias or precious metal.
As a special treat, I have compiled three releases from Ballindalloch to provide an insight into the quality of their whisky. The two individual casks will be on hand for distillery visitors moving forward, with Colin selecting more as and when required.
Regarding Harris Distillery, I have been fortunate enough to taste a few of their initial releases. There is not much variation between them, and their whisky currently lacks the poise and presence I had hoped for. This is partially due to its lower bottling proof. I scored these releases a 4/10 elsewhere and I wasn’t a fan of the packaging. On the other hand, I have been fortunate to sample several examples of cask strength unpeated Harris whisky, which confirms a greater sense of location and potential.
Review 1/3
Ballindalloch Edition 1, Seven Springs Collection, 1200 bottles, Marriage of six first-fill bourbon barrels, 60.2% ABV
£150 sold out
Nose
Pears, Pink Lady apples and all spice. Wine gums, icing sugar, plain candle wax and wild heather. Whole nutmeg, saline, peach stone and vanilla. More fruits now with pineapple, white grapes and citrus. Figs, wood staves, nougat, broken digestives and worn leather.
Palate
There is a rich density and oiliness that immediately grab your attention. A lovely mouthfeel ensues. Old style meadow fruits with a twist of lemon. Green mango, caramel, white chocolate, pineapples. There’s also plums, cereals and pine cones. A real lovely balance and fruitiness across these bourbon barrels with the wood.
The Dregs
This is impressive. There is no burn at all despite the strength. Ballindalloch has intentionally been under the radar until now and it's definitely worth the wait. The craftsmanship behind this distillate is evident, with multiple layers waiting to be discovered. A night and day scenario between this whisky which has been granted time, versus some others we see on the market.
Score: 7/10
Review 2/3
Ballindalloch, Single Cask Distillery Exclusive, ex-bourbon barrel, 345 bottles, distilled 21/01/16, bottled 28/8/23, 62.3% ABV
£89 available via the distillery only (50cl)
Nose
Zesty, lemon, citrus and floral. Very clean, an old-fashioned lemonade. Agave, cotton sheets, fruit sweetness, apple juice and kiwi fruit.
Palate
Texture is noticeable with a rich oiliness. Vanilla, pears, caramel and apples. Green mango, kiwi fruit, golden syrup and figs. Green pineapple, lime and crisp apples.
The Dregs
I’m reminded of Glenlossie and Glen Elgin. However, there is an additional depth and richness present, adding to its unique character. The lack of alcohol on the senses is almost magical in nature. While the price of £89 for 50cl may be steep for some, Ballindalloch has always been marketed as a premium brand, and this bottle offers a generous amount of high-quality whisky.
Score: 7/10
Review 3/3
Ballindalloch, Single Cask Distillery Exclusive, ex-oloroso sherry butt, cask #600, 940 bottles, distilled 3/12/15, bottled 28/8/23, 62.3% ABV
£89 available via the distillery only (50cl)
Nose
Plums, cranberries and leather are present, but not forceful. Apricots, an oily fattiness, peanuts and black pepper. Raspberries, white cap mushrooms, sage, and apples. Cinnamon bark, rhubarb, rubbed brass, fudge, tobacco. Tomato, vines, and mandarins.
Palate
Red apples, Cranberries, red berries, and plums. Brown sugar, sage, and toffee. Tarragon., strawberry jelly. Old marzipan, walnuts and cherry.
The Dregs
Ballindalloch has produced a sherried whisky that has left me truly impressed. The distillate has gracefully matured for seven years in Oloroso, resulting in a harmonious and characterful expression. Notably, there is a remarkable absence of any alcohol burn, showcasing the whisky's quality.
This is a rich whisky without being overly indulgent. Of all the sherried whiskies I have tasted this year, none have matched the quality of this selection. The ‘wait’ as some whisky enthusiasts refer to it as, cannot be rushed or overcome with shortcuts. The key is to allow ample time for aging with high-quality wood and distillate to achieve the desired outcome.
I recall the advice of a particular geeky distiller from some years back; the efforts put in before the distillate even comes into contact with the wood are what truly matters. Good quality wood thereafter is the extra topping.
Score: 8/10
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Whiskybase (Seven Springs Edition 1)
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