Signatory Old School Single Malt 45yo
Batch 2 2024 Tropical Fruit Edition | 43.4% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A toasted almond & baking spice delight (but still seeking tropical paradise)
Destination ‘Tropical Fruit’?
Are tropical fruits the most coveted profile in Scotch? Well, not exclusively. But it’s at least one of the most sought-after.
I’ve been drinking Scotch - with intention - for about nine years and while I still consider myself a novice, I do feel comfortable saying that I have learned a thing or two over those years and across a wide selection of drams. I would like to take a pass at describing a typical flavour arc of a whisky connoisseur, which is of course oversimplified and not representative of everyone. But here goes:
Phase 1: Bland and low proof.
Your first sip of whisky is probably a jarring one, and perhaps associated with a cough, squinting of the eyes, and a statement along the lines of “that’s strong!”. Most people never get past this stage, out of preference or disgust. Most blends live here, and sales figures suggest that most people start here.
Phase 2: Discovery and interest in strong flavors.
This is typically heavy sherry influence or heavy peat influence. This marked the beginning of my serious journey, as I explored the old batches of Glendronach 15 Revival. I tried Springbank at this stage and didn’t like it.
Phase 3: Nuance, subtlety, and complexity.
Distillate-centric with wood influence as an enhancer, not exclusive characteristic. Some peat but not overpowering peat. Refill casks shine here. Tropical flavors start to emerge but aren’t exclusively here.
Phase Infinity: Future phases aren’t linear by any means.
But from there I’ve focused more on unusual or more subtle flavours and general fruitiness without being overpowered by the cask. The “pinnacle” of this complexity, if there is such a thing, can often arrive as either tropical fruits, farmy/funky notes, fermented red fruit, or even (good) industrial notes. This is where time in cask matters and, like Phase 3, refill casks are common.
Oldest isn’t necessarily the best, but these are flavors you’re hard-pressed to find in young whiskies. Legendary bottles like 60’s Bowmore, 70’s Brora, and 60’s Springbank live here. I am a mere peasant and inexperienced novice amongst these titans, but I strive to learn.
So why am I talking about this flavour journey? Well, because the single malt in this review is 45 years old and boldly labeled “Tropical Fruit Edition”. That tropical label was placed to send a potent message to connoisseurs. And while an RRP of £375 is high for any bottle of Scotch, it’s quite reasonable for a malt that’s 45 years old and even more so if it has that desirable tropical experience.
Naturally, I couldn’t resist.
Review
Old School 45 Year Old, Signatory Vintage, Tropical Fruit Edition, Batch #2, 2024 release, 43.4% ABV
£375 retail (£383 paid)
I personally suspect this to be 1978/1979 Bunnahabhain, as Signatory has released very similar spec casks to this (at much higher prices), but I have no proof or insider knowledge of this.
Let the tasting notes be your guide.
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A toasted almond & baking spice delight (but still seeking tropical paradise)
Nose
Coconut shavings, toasted almonds, pine nuts and baking spices. Not particularly tropical or juicy on the nose.
Palate
Waves of toasted oak and vanilla bean. Peppery but not hot, which makes sense given the low ABV. Not too bitter on the finish despite the noticeable oak. A touch of frozen white grapes, but merely a bit. Once again, not quite the tropical experience that was advertised. And frankly a surprisingly simple profile for a malt of 45 years.
The Dregs
If you have this dram without context or introduction, it’s quite good. But, in reading the back-label tasting notes in anticipation, I can’t help but feel slightly betrayed. Water does open up the flavour and mellow any spices, but mango, pineapple, and a fresh, fruity finish? Not for me.
I could maybe stretch to say there are some dried mango or crystallised pineapple notes there, but the oak char and peppery notes are much more dominant. Take away those high expectations and you have an intrinsically high quality dram.
For a 45 year old single malt, I will not complain about price or flavour. But for £375, based on flavour alone, I can’t go above a 7.
I poured a dram of Macduff 1973 28 yo First Cask to compare the fruitiness, and found that to be a far fruitier dram than this mystery 45 year old. Perhaps an unfair comparison, but so as it is.
Still, I will end by commending Signatory on releasing a reasonably priced 45 year old single malt. They seem to be leading the charge in the new era of value for money, even at the top-end of age.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. IG
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