Old Forester 1920 - Prohibition Style
Kentucky Straight Bourbon | 57.5% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Grip, depth and a terrific, time-travelling dram
Back to the future?
As a history geek and lover of all things whiskey, mixing the two is a real treat. From reading books and articles about whisky of old, perhaps even an insight to an ancient mash bill or distilling style from a bygone era, it’s the closest thing I may have to stepping back in time through this glorious liquid.
At the time of writing in March 2024, we are inundated with new releases from our favourite ‘established' distilleries, not to mention - as we have here on Dramface many a time - the newly built distilleries around the British Isles, and indeed the world. So much choice, variety and availability; surely we can all find taste and flavour profiles that we really connect with?
Yet, strangely, I feel historical methods and processes haven't typically been a focus for many of the main producers, not since I started falling down the whisky rabbit hole at least. The larger whisky makers of today, rather than looking back to utilise distilling methods of old, have instead been prioritising efficiency and, more recently, sustainability as their main drivers.
Sure, the traditional pot stills that we all know and love, despite the nineteenth century innovation of column stills; have survived the test of time, mainly because what they produce is markedly different in profile and flavour to that of these higher-efficiency continuous “Coffey'' stills. Many other examples of traditional whisky making, however, were not so lucky. Yet recently, some have indeed caught the attention of 21st century producers and are seeing something of a comeback. Examples that come to mind are the reintroduction of heritage grains and perhaps even the use of Saladin boxes in malting.
Recently we’ve seen the use of Orkney Bere (pronounced 'bear') barley by Bruichladdich from their launch of their Bere Barley bottlings, which now see an annual release. The widespread use of this grain for whisky dates back to the 1800s and on throughout the 1920s. The grain itself is recorded to have been grown in Scotland for 1,000 years, but was all but gone from use due to more modern varieties, such as Concerto or Odyssey for example, offering far more hardy resistance and higher alcohol yield. Today, the Bruichladdich Bere bottlings are unique and very tasty, and a quite brilliant nod to the ways of old.
Saladin boxes however, have disappeared completely from use, with Tamdhu being the last user of this step in their whisky making process (and funnily enough one of the first distilleries to adopt them too). These were invented by French engineer Charles Saladin back in the 1800s to prevent the malted barley roots becoming matted and tangled together. Think of a large rectangular box, with vertical screws that rotate horizontally. The rotation moves the barley at the bottom of the box toward the top, automating what a maltman might be employed to do as he ‘turned the piece’. While we see modern efficient, centralised maltings in place to provide the vast quantities of malt required today, there are rumours that distilleries may re-evaluate the prospect of Saladin boxes once more…as a source of old-school tradition and flavour.
Interesting, but what else can we do today to grab a glimpse of whisky’s past? Well, jumping into our DeLorean and gunning it to 88mph all the way back to one of whisky evolution’s most interesting times; the United States’ prohibition era from 1919 - 1933, where alcohol production, importation and sale came to an absolute halt.
Co-ordinated by the American Temperance Society and the Anti-Saloon League, they argued that public morals and health were under attack in American society. It was ratified in January 1919 under the 18th Amendment to the United States Constitution. An absolutely fascinating time in the roaring 20's of America, and a topic I’ve since loved studying in school and university.
During this era of prohibition there was a huge rise in illegal speakeasies, hidden saloons, moonshine production, bootleggers and rum runners. While much alcohol was illegally made or imported by boats, Old Forester, strangely, was permitted to continue legal production of its bourbon for medicinal purposes, through a federal licence granted at the time. This was distributed via Louisville's famed Whiskey Row, referring to an area along Main Street, close to the Ohio River, at the time home to the bourbon industry.
According to Old Forester themselves, the 1920 Prohibition Style is the only bourbon sold by the same company that has been available for sale before, during and after Prohibition. So perhaps a true homage to the whiskey making and style of an infamous era in American History. A bottle I am delighted to have bought, in order to experience and consider history through a delicious liquid medium.
Review
Old Forester 1920 - Prohibition Style, 750ml bottle, 72% Corn, 18% Rye & 10% Malted Barley, NAS, 57.5% ABV
US$55 paid, £75 in UK but occasionally available
I managed to pick this up relatively cheaply while in the US for work; $55 on the shelf price (but I’ve no idea how much this came to when tax was added when paying - just put the complete price on your shelves please America, it saves us all a whole lotta headaches).
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Grip, depth and a terrific, time-travelling dram
Nose
Cut dried hardwood. Cherry cola and vanilla cream with icing sugar. Swiss roll and sugar cubes. Cream from a squirt can. Fresh pancakes, maple syrup and roasted pecans. Rice pudding dessert with a warm caramel sauce. Flaked choux pastry. Glazed cherries, coffee beans and a fantastic dense smell of wood and sweetness.
Palate
Whole cinnamon sticks, atomic fireball confectionary and pecan plait pastry right off the bat. Stewed apples and deliciously sweet ripe pears. A hint of nutmeg and shaved fresh ginger. Lovely weighted mouthfeel from this, it really doesn’t feel or hit like a high ABV bourbon might; it’s silky and coats the palate ever so nicely. Layers of eucalyptus, boiled cherry sweets and a fresh wood note that lingers throughout, but in a good way.
The Dregs
This was pretty high on my purchase list when travelling to the US. I’d seen a few YouTube channels raving about it and the whole angle of prohibition they had going on saw the history geek in me hooked. It was also our Archie who picked one up while in the US, and he loved it. Surprising too as he’s not a big bourbon fan.
I’ve had bags of fun drinking through dram after dram of this high proof bourbon. Probably my first taste of anything Old Forester has produced. Their standard bottle (non-Prohibition-style) is available in most supermarket shelves here in the UK, for a good price too; probably something I’ll have to pick up to see how the foundational tastes compare between the two.
I’m already a fan of the likes of Rare Breed and the Elijah Criag Barrel Proof and this is another epic dram with huge depth and character. As mentioned in my tasting notes, it doesn’t feel or drink like something that’s 57.5% ABV, which is dangerous!
I’d pick up another in a heartbeat, but in the meantime I’ll savour the deliciousness left in this souvenir bottle; I’ll maybe even see how it fares in an Old Fashioned. It’s a bottle I would highly recommend buying if you come across one in the wild. One for both bourbon and scotch lovers alike, with such a range of layered flavours onto a solid bourbon foundation, taking it to the kind of flavour, sweetness, weight and balance that assist in a little whisky time travel.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. HF
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