Pulteney 13yo Equinox Solstice
Spring 2022 | 48.5% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A robust and characterful Highland malt.
When I Was A Lad…
Perhaps it’s an age thing? When Decadent Drinks first revealed their Equinox series, many of you would have pictured the dazzling solar event that takes place when the sun passes the equator. There is a more scientific explanation which I won’t bore you with, but science was my first thought when I read the announcement email from Decadent, yet not in the manner you might have anticipated.
Equinox was a long running television show that started in the mid-1980s on Channel 4. The lasting impression it made on younger viewers was the booming theme tune that sounded like it came from the mind of Jean-Michael Jarre. It was a look into the future with a scientific edge. Perhaps a forerunner of the BBC’s Click programme but with more funk, 80s swagger and armed with a running time of an hour it could go off the deep end. In other words, it was way cooler despite the dress wear and lack of high definition. Back in those days it felt you were going off the grid when you clicked onto the UK’s only 4th and newest television channel. It was the destination that dared to explore the shadows and take a few more risks, compared to the more mainstream channels.
Some of the Equinox shows are revived periodically as specials, or others such as The Engines That Came in From The Cold, are rediscovered for a new generation to appreciate through the modern medium of the internet. Something that beats an unreliable television set with a low resolution and poor refresh rate. It’s good to know that some things have improved in life whereas you cannot always say the about whisky.
If you’ve ever been fortunate to visit the Pulteney distillery in Wick, then you’ll appreciate how unique and relatively unspoilt it is. From the outside, it is the least distillery-looking site in Scotland. The wide streets and weathered stone materials of the housing estate have turned black with time and only a hanging sign gives you a clue as to what lies behind the façade.
What I enjoy about Pulteney – other than the whisky – is how the distillery has coped with such a confined space and maximising what it can achieve. The outcome is a unique distillery that has used technology and the limitations of space to create its own identity. The mashtun that almost touches each side of the surrounding walls and then there are the distinctive bulbous stills. Let’s not forget the impressive spirit still lyne arm and the classic use of worm tubs. Pulteney somehow works within its limitations and delivers a single malt with a distinctive character.
“Using worms in our process at Pulteney allows us to have a long, slow spirit run, with the spirit vapour picking up the bolder, beefier characteristics in the first part of its journey in the worm.”
There’s a stimulating and mystifying quality when you do tour the distillery. A sense that this wouldn’t be the result of a deliberate design; rather something that has evolved over time with the guidance of individuals who have had to overcome a series of problems. In doing so, becoming very creative. Their efforts and persistence have given us one of Scotland’s most distinctive single malts.
Admittedly, we don’t see Pulteney always in a positive light as the core range has taken a bit of flak following its rebranding a couple of years ago. The sense that we’re paying more for less. The chasing of new markets at the danger of alienating old ones, is the double-edged sword that many distilleries are now contemplating and dealing with.
Review
A vatting of 3 casks from 2008, a refill barrel and 2 first fill barrels, 48.5% ABV
£75 and available at time of writing
This is still available for £75 thanks partially to the higher outturn of 830 bottles. There’s probably an element of the market that prefers single casks and cask strength. I have no definitive view on the subject as it’s all about the end product and trusting the bottler. Maybe some aren’t fans of the distinctive artwork of Melissa Nash? The imagery was one of the indicators that took me back to that Equinox show flashback. In some parts, also reviving fond memories of when Nintendo’s Zelda took on an alternate visual dynamic. So, it’s time to cast aside the artwork, turn off the VHS (let’s not forget about Betamax) recorder and see what this delivers.
Nose
Used foil paper and a gentle level of saltiness. A helping of costal minerality, with smashed pebbles and dried seaweed. There’s balance at play with some orange notes that demonstrate that the sea isn’t the overriding influence and also a box of apples. Time in the glass reveals mint leaf, green peppercorn, talcum powder and tarragon.
Palate
There is a dulled wood note, residual dampness that I’m picking up. It might not sound ideal but it does prompt your attention along with the viscous texture almost verging on waxiness. It’s more like an old sack that you’ve taken down from the attic; it has seen better days and has become something else in terms of smell and taste. Black peppercorns, ashy and toffee. Moment of that minerality once again and a sprinkling of sea salt.
The Dregs
A very clean example of Pulteney on the nose and a strong start. The palate catches you out to a certain degree – you’re expecting more of the coastal and stark vibes continuing. Instead, it goes a little grungy. Maybe not the most accessible or immediate Pulteney, that you’ll come across, but I quite liked that deviant nature. Something we need to see more of in whisky rather than safe and predictable bottlings.
There is more spirit and gusto here than I expected on paper and a certain presence at the 48.5% strength. If I had a bottle to hand, I’d be pouring again to break the mystery and appreciate it even more. I can see similarities with Dailuaine (a favourite of mine), which has a distinctive spirit and a green and distinctive nature that isn’t for everyone. Dailuaine of course was a recent stand in for Clynelish when it was out of action – so you can draw your own comparisons from that when it comes to the texture in this release.
At £75, I do think this one is about right for the entry price and the experience you’ll receive.
Score: 7/10
Our thanks to Decadent Drinks for the sample and photograph.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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