Glencadam 15yo
Official Bottling| 46% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Perfect for sipping, re-filling, and sipping some more.
What Price For An Opinion?
Do the people who make and market whisky actually pay attention to what online reviewers and writers say about it?
Let me be clear from the off, I am not referring to myself here. I know that there is little chance anyone would pay much heed to my opinions and, honestly, that’s fine. I’ve no claim, nor desire, to be any sort of tastemaker! I have my own views, of course, but I’ve tried fewer whiskies than many folks and have next to no experience of the vaunted classics; Brora, Port Ellen, old-skool Laphroaig and the like.
I know that the opinions of some well-respected reviewers, though, can have a measurable impact. A particularly favourable review and high score can result in a rush to online and bricks-and-mortar retailers. Even regular expressions that are not limited by design (unlike single casks or small vattings) can become scarce in a hurry. Of course, it’s important to remember that correlation does not necessarily equal causation. For example, Dallas recently named Springbank 10 as his whisky of the year and you will struggle to buy even a single bottle at a sensible retail price. However, that is much more an indication of limited supply coupled with insatiable, bordering on ridiculous, demand for anything Springbank. Things have come to quite a state when folk are able to make a profit flipping what is effectively the entry level product to a distillery’s range.
So, whisky fans may pay attention to the wisdom of certain personalities in the blogosphere but I was still somewhat cynical about whether the same was true of those within the industry. I was interested, therefore, when I learned that Glencadam were well aware when Ralfy named their 15 year old his whisky of the year for 2017. As their brand ambassador Cody said on a recent tasting I attended, such commendations do his work for him and are much appreciated! In this case, however, as nice as the ‘whisky of the year’ designation was it couldn’t have been timed much worse.
“Glencadam is situated about half a mile outside the ancient Royal Burgh of Brechin.”
The distillery was mothballed from the year 2000 until 2003, when current owners Angus Dundee purchased Glencadam from Allied Domecq. Those mathematically inclined will already see the issue; by this point in 2017 the effect of the shutdown was biting and newly bottled ‘15yo’ whisky could only come from older stock. A case of bad timing and not the ideal moment to receive a potential boost in demand. The 15yo was withdrawn temporarily, reappearing when stocks from the Angus Dundee reign allowed. However, in the long run it doesn’t seem to have done any harm and it is generally still well received as far as I can tell. Fast-forwarding now to 2022 and production of their 21yo expression is taking a hiatus; it is currently almost impossible to find and will remain so for some time!
I did query whether the 21yo could be maintained over this interim period by using older stocks from before the early 2000s shutdown. The answer was a negative, apparently they do not have any older stocks with which to do it. I’m a little sceptical about that, I’m sure they must have some 90s casks knocking around the warehouses, but perhaps the economics do not stack up; there are not sufficient casks or they have bigger plans for any that are squirreled away. It is interesting to contrast this with the open secret about the true age of Glendronach’s expressions over the last dozen or so years. Their own years-long shutdown, at a similar time to Glencadam, meant that at various points core expressions were as much as 6 years older than the age statement on the bottle. I would argue that this was at least partly responsible for the very solid reputation that Glendroach built up over a number of years – to the point where Brown-Forman were willing to spend some serious cash to buy it (along with Benriach and Glenglassaugh).
Bringing the focus back to this very southernly Highland distillery, I was fortunate to be able to try Glencadam’s 10, 15 and 21 year old back to back. All of these expressions are purely ex-bourbon matured, bottled at 46%, un-chill filtered and natural colour. It was both intriguing and enjoyable to compare and contrast them. The 10yo has been thoroughly covered by Earie, the 21 is on its holidays, so let’s turn our attention to something you can actually buy.
Review
Ex-bourbon casks, 46% ABV
£55 or thereabouts, widely available
Nose
There is a nice oiliness combined with vanilla from the off. Sweetness from icing sugar and a touch of white pepper. This develops into a harmonious apple pastry with vanilla custard. Over time the nose becomes very malty, again sweet, with barley juice. This is tempered with spicy dry ginger notes, a herbal edge and fleeting notes of sweeties like cherry lips and kola cubes.
Palate
A good chewy texture. There is toffee sweetness, alongside the fruitiness and cereal from the nose. It has nice complexity with that slight herbal edge again, menthol and perhaps oregano? There is also a touch of sour cherry. The finish lingers nicely with some slightly stale spice and muted vanilla.
The Dregs
There are clear threads that link Glencadam’s bourbon-matured offerings as the age statement increases. The wonderful cereal notes and barley juice persist throughout, as does vanilla custard. There are invariably apple notes too; I find these morph from crisp green apple at the younger end of the spectrum, to more golden or russet apples as the spirit gains maturity. Focusing on the 15yo specifically, the vibrant, zesty youthfulness of its younger sibling has faded but is replaced by a softer and more elegant profile. It’s perfect for sipping, re-filling, and sipping some more. It doesn’t demand your undivided attention, but there is sufficient complexity and flavour that you can sit and pick it apart if you choose. In my opinion it is a very solid and well-priced dram.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EM
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