Cadenhead’s Bunnahabhain 5yo
2019 release | 58.9% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Beyond its formative years
Pay It Forward
I didn’t think much of it at the time. Perhaps there’s an inbuilt desire to step aside when someone expresses a greater desire for an object; the item often being a bottle of whisky. I’m just not one to get overly excited about a material thing or the need to claim ownership and proclaim it on social media. You’ll have seen the Facebook or Instagram posts, hastily set up post-spend, normally using the car seat to display their trophies; the bottle parade.
Being more respectful of one another is the way to go. Those with genuine motivations to open and try the bottle will be rewarded. I can recall several occasions where I’ve helped various individuals obtain a bottle for their own enjoyment. I’ve stood aside in shop or SMWS queue when it was clear the person behind wasn’t going to get the last bottle when they reached the front. I hope that person did enjoy that Japanese edition SMWS Glenfarclas from a few years ago!
Getting back to the particular bottle that prompted this trip down memory lane, it was one I recalled trying at the Edinburgh Cadenhead’s store and being impressed with at the time. I recommended it to my great friend, Rose, who was also interested. So, without thinking too much, I passed it on at retail price into a cavernous suitcase destined for California. My cunning plan being that I’d easily pick up a bottle for myself to enjoy next time I dropped by the shop. We’d explore the whisky during one of our cross-Atlantic sessions. A pretty safe bet as it was a Bunnahabhain and a cask vatting resulting in 700+ bottles.
The flaw in this logic turned out to be that word of mouth had caught up with the Bunnahabhain 5 year old and it had promptly sold out. Remember that this was back in mid-2019 when we were still on the cusp of the whisky madness that we see now engulfing whiskies from certain distilleries or 90+ point fever. All 720 bottles were gone and the opportunity to share the experience faded into the background with the passage of time. Islay, with the odd exception, wasn’t as engulfed by queues of flippers and marauding auctioneer vans.
In today’s environment, you can realistically (and accurately) predict which bottles will receive the spotlight focus when released into the public domain. Certain bottlers are increasingly collectable as are certain distilleries. There’s an unhealthy fascination with sherry and colour; often at the expense of exploration. There are always exceptions to the rule; especially true when bottles make their way into the hands of enthusiasts who start to pour and talk about their experiences. Perhaps going back for a 2nd or 3rd bottle before friends and observers pick up on the fact that a certain whisky is worth trying. This seal of quality can transcend previous barriers, breaking down preconceptions and beliefs. Heard the one about the great Jura? It did happen – albeit once – but that moment did arrive, the planets were in alignment and miracles can occur.
Skipping forward nearly three years, I had forgotten all about the Bunnahabhain until Rose surprised me with an auction purchase (not too far off the original retail price) and this subsequent generous gift. I find that generous people are often taken aback by the generous actions of others. You’d think they’d have an understandable insight into the dynamics of it all and the appeal of paying something forward. There’s a rich stream of generosity running through many enthusiasts I know. We’ve all experienced it at some time I expect. Being given a generous sample or the remnants of a bottle to explore on your own terms and in your own time is appreciated. People taking the extra time to discuss whisky or parcel up some samples for you to explore. These and many other acts form the olive branches of whisky. Something we mustn’t forget, or overlook, during this era of greed, investment and quick profiteering.
“all good things come to those that wait”
Having donated a couple of bottles Stateside, I was surprised by the appearance of this Bunnahabhain from Cadenhead’s. It might be the last heavily peated expression Cadenhead’s have put together of this distillery as a vatting. I cannot remember once since, but I could have just missed it. In today’s climate, you do become slightly numb and detached to your inbox being hammered with the latest releases in general. This 2013 Bunnahabhain was bottled at a robust 58.9% and was a vatting of three ex-bourbon barrels. It was probably £50-£60 back in 2019 and if released today, I’d expect Cadenhead’s to charge slightly more, but not a lot.
Back on Islay, Bunnahabhain has upped its production of its heavily peated distillate in recent times to meet demand. On average, the ppm level is 40, compared to the standard distillate of 3ppm. So, quite a jump and this results in a very different style and more of a traditional Islay monster. There’s been a real upturn in status for Bunnhabhain in the last couple of years as Distell focus on bringing some much-needed investment to the site. This culminated in 2021 with the confidence to release a 12 year old cask strength expression. It promptly sold out via the official store, but you can occasionally see it at retail. I’ve heard nothing but good things about this bottling, which is refreshing as previously Bunnhabhain was being matured in all sorts of wood that divided opinion.
Review
2013 distillate bottled in 2019, vatting of 3 ex-bourbon casks, 58.9% ABV
£55 now sold out but check online
Nose
A generous helping of sea salt, bacon fat and parmesan. There’s a surprising level of sugary sweetness in the mix with candy floss. The peat here is very drying, very crumbly and mossy. Straw, cold butter, lemon thyme and with time in the glass, sour cream. Also, something we’ve lost in the age of liquid soap, but the purple soap bars in public toilets. Battered haddock, pine needles, candy floss and a minty freshness.
Palate
Less rugged initially, then the cracked black peppercorns and salt kick in. Gherkins and peppermint on the finish. Scorched earth. Cream soda, old style. Salty? Did I say sea salt? Like some peated whiskies you have associations with a good, handcrafted and smoky mezcal. A twist of lime.
The Dregs
Sometimes you worry about your sensory processing. The ability to recover lost information. A quick taste in a shop is always appreciated but in reality, is it the best environment to be able to fully assess a whisky? I always have that hesitation and concern when recommending a release. Especially when the fog of time has shrouded the memory and elevated any sense of doubt.
Thankfully, this one panned out ok, as Rose commented (generally not a fan of Bunnahabhain) that it was the best example that she’s had. Maybe that’s partially down to the heavily peated aspect? The standard Bunnahabhain can be a wee timid soul compared to some of its more boisterous neighbours. Bravado can hide many flaws and distract from known weaknesses. Peat is very much a smokescreen especially when it comes to younger malts.
Fortunately, there’s substance to this whisky. There’s an evident honesty as well at 5 years; a freshness and vitality that leaves you reaching for another pour. Too many of us are preoccupied with the age statement. A need to go higher and higher until… I’m not sure what comes next as that’s probably the realm of the extreme maturations of Gordon & MacPhail. Bingo numbers and price to match. There’s nothing shameful in reaching for a no age statement or young whisky if it ticks the boxes for you, and this Bunnahabhain certainly does.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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