Cream of Sponge 1993

Scotch Whisky

7 Sep

Whisky Sponge Edition 59a | 44.7% ABV

cream of sponge highland 1993 bottle] — Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*Unknown pleasures from the north*

I Feel Free

Historically, we’ve always associated the presence of cream with defining something as a cut above the rest. It’ll rise to the top, etc. Growing up, there was only ever one type of milk on offer, and the cream was what you wanted on your cornflakes each morning. Nowadays, things have certainly changed. Milk isn’t exactly milk anymore, and you can become bamboozled by all the various options extracted from all manner of animals and vegetables.

One thing that does remain constant in this turbulent sea of change is the Highlands region retaining its status as the cream of the whisky map. Sure, the plaudits and poll awards go to Campbeltown and the fashionistas with their tweed and long beards all head towards Islay. These are the headline-grabbers, attention-seekers and names that put bums on seats. And we shouldn’t overlook the prospering Lowlands, which is enjoying a long-overdue resurgence after decades in the whisky wilderness — when you’ve only had Auchentoshan and a haphazard Bladnoch to fly the regional colours and represent you at award ceremonies that no one really cares about, things can only get better. The Speyside fortress remains a constant attraction and yet, for the sheer variety of stylings that whisky can offer, you have to go further north.

Cream has always been associated with the Highlands, thanks to the stature of the Teacher’s blend fondly known as Highland Cream. The guts of this delightful blend were taken from Ardmore distillery — still today, this effort continues. The remote Ardmore outpost remains a worthwhile bastion of affordable and quality whiskies for the independent sector; if you haven’t checked out something from Ardmore, then don’t say you weren’t told.

Now, in the hands of Beam Suntory, Ardmore remains in a difficult quandary. As a fan and whisky enthusiast, you mainly want to enjoy its wares, which include a skilful usage of peat and showcase the distillery’s ability — into its second decade — to reach a knockout status as a fruity character is deployed. Ardmore really deserves more acclaim, yet it remains underrepresented officially.

This is where the independents thankfully step in. Seemingly, there are more Ardmores at retail than promises of Tory leadership candidates. At least the whisky delivers something of value and substance in these times of disappointment.

The theme of mismanagement has arguably applied to all Highland distilleries at one time or another. Ben Nevis was/is a core component of Japanese whisky, when it has so much to offer, and it is great to see the site receiving some investment as a result of its new prominence and the whisky boom. Balblair still struggles to find a competent and affordable core range, while down the road Glenmorangie sales are up. The latter distillery’s status has never been higher, yet it is decreasing in representation amongst whisky enthusiasts. Pulteney endures, much like Balblair, with a revamped range that doesn’t quite deliver. For all the various editions and casks types, there is nothing better than an ex-bourbon Pulteney given time to deliver.

And there are other Highland distilleries in operation that deserve further consideration, such as Teaninich, Tomatin and Garioch. The latter is of special interest going forward, as its recent changes seek to revive the old style it was infamous for.

Meanwhile, I appreciate I may have deviated off-course, as I don’t know if this whisky is truly from Ardmore. To make matters worse, this has all been written prior to snapping the sample seal. Ultimately, the source doesn’t matter, and the playful ‘Cream’ title allowed me to speculate a little more and showcase those Highland distilleries that are worthy of your time. We are, after all, far too focused on names and such, when what truly matters is the contents.

Review

In terms of cream specifics, this is a 28-year-old elder statesman from a refill hogshead, distilled in 1993, at 44.7% ABV. The 263 bottles have sold out at retail.

Nose

Very delicate and assured with hints of old school whiskies. There’s a savoury element here — ham hock, a disused tin can, soft cheese, cheap white chocolate buttons. A freshly plucked vine devoid of tomatoes. A hint of smoke, a crisp Portuguese green wine, red-flesh apples, tarragon, coconut, chalk dust.

Palate

Fuller-bodied than I was expecting, with a great interplay between the oak and the spirit, the balance shifting from one to the other across the palate. Almonds, white pepper, more apples, ripe pears, and white grapes. Faded vanilla, nougat, lime zest, and ever so slight smoky residue with a metallic aspect once again.

The Dregs

If I was describing this whisky, I’d summarise it as simply thoughtful. It is the type of dram you have to sit down with and explore layer by layer. An experience that you take your time over and ponder. Admittedly, we can spend too long delving without appreciating and sometimes I find that’s the case in geek circles, where the pure enjoyment of whisky can be lost or at least overlooked.

The benefit of a mystery malt isn’t the pursuit of where it is from but rather just appreciating it for what it is. Where was it distilled? I don’t really care, and I’m left with a pour from a cask of rather intoxicating whisky that’s full of original charm and character — something that harks back to an older style where the wood and spirit were in harmony, minus all this nonsense of “70% flavour comes from the wood.” (If you hadn’t realised by now, that isn’t something I subscribe to.)

In these days of young and overpriced whiskies that rely on the wood for their foundation (STR, I’m looking at you), there is a reassuring quality in this bottling that underlines how not everything is lost. The casks of whisky that take you on a journey and remind you that not everything is rushed or defined by efficiency do still exist.

Score: 8/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM

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