Eight Distilleries | Various ABV

Score: 7/10

**Very Good Indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*One bottle from each currently operating Islay distillery*

I’ll be honest, this series of reviews is pretty well on a whim.

Given some of the topics I opt to tackle on this platform, many reviews can take anywhere from a few dedicated days to many weeks to properly research, write and compose.

Don’t get me wrong, I love doing it - given the spirit of Dramface and the rather niche nature of the topics. It would be somewhat absurd if I didn’t. That said, I enjoy the process that goes into actually tasting and reviewing a whisky regardless of the larger topic being discussed.

The main reason I have an interest in the science, production and organoleptic aspects of whisky is that I want to better understand the flavours I experience. To that end, with no greater machinations, here’s my take on the profiles of the eight Islay distilleries currently operating with whisky available for local purchase. They vary between releases indicative of what’s affordably available, to some older gems which are probably beyond most of our price points. There’s no rhyme or reason as to which is which, rather it’s completely random and based on what I have at hand.

A quick disclaimer: These whiskies were all sampled multiple times on different days and no more than two were had in the same sitting; palate fatigue is obviously exacerbated with increased ABV and flavour intensity.

Review 1/8 - Caol Ila

Caol Ila 10yo, Single Malts of Scotland, cask ref. 319920, 57.9% ABV
AUD$180 (AUD$160 paid)

There are a half dozen bottles in my collection that I could’ve used to cover Caol Ila, but for me this is the most exemplary of the house style and possibly of greater importance is the fact I like it.

The readily accessible nature of Caol Ila from independent bottlers in almost any guise, be it differing ages, cask types or just style of presentation, has defined part of the whisky landscape for years. The fact Diageo is apparently pulling Caol Ila out from the wholesale cask market is indicative of their general counter-whisky-culture zeitgeist.

I understand it’s business, but it feels characteristically short-sighted of the drinks giant. If I linger on the topic much longer, grumpiness will prematurely ensue so let’s get to drinking instead.

Score: 7/10

**Very Good Indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Typically predictable, reliable, good and fair Caol Ila*

Nose

A lovely, clean and elegant Islay nose. Pristine maltiness with some honeyed barley biscuits, then fresh peat with a hint of pleasant youth; beach bonfire, subtle petrolic sweetness (ie benzene), shucked oysters with a light lemongrass dressing, a touch of solvent plus bitter aperitifs utilising gentian, wormwood and other earthy/musky ingredients. Dilution (10-15% by volume) accentuates the coastal, citric and aperitif tones while adding some nicely vegetal peat highlights.

Palate

Again, clean and precise, emblematic of the distillate; Caol Ila is properly hard to stuff up in bourbon casks. The citrus elements are more pronounced here with a nice lemon peel oiliness, while the bitters/aperitif tones are slightly more sedate. The smoke is dialled up too, providing ashy phenolics and more benzene-esque sweetness. The maltiness impresses, lending a firm gristy backbone to the proceedings, then very soft vanilla/lactone driven oak notes. There’s still a smidge of youth though dilution subdues it nicely and emboldens the smoke.

The Dregs

If you like Islay peat, there’s nothing to be mad about here. Arguably some might find it a bit young, but for the age it’s certainly well matured. For what it is, the pricing is fair too - not a bargain either, but fair.

The only criticism I might offer - and it’s not even criticism, really - is that this bottle is holistically predictable, delivering exactly what you might guess based on the label’s information. It earns its score, though perhaps only just.

Score: 7/10

Review 2/8 - Bunnahabhain

Staoisha 7yo (Bunnahabhain), Signatory Vintage UCF Collection, 2013 release, 57.9% ABV
AUD$100 (AUD$95 paid)

Bunnahabhain is an odd duck for me. Their unpeated distillate is good, but perhaps not something that really lights a fire in my belly. I understand the enthusiasm, particularly as a template to overlay various fortified casks (particularly sherry) but there’s not anything notable that would help me pick it out compared to many Highland or Speyside malts in a blind tasting. Maybe I just haven’t had enough of it, but the casks always seem to be doing the heavy lifting.

The peated distillate, however, is immense- heavily phenolic, usually quite clean and with a firm maltiness that sits it somewhere between Caol Ila and Lagavulin in profile. Perhaps what impresses me most is it seems to work so well in so many instances at a young age. Perhaps that’s more reflective of what Distell have done with more recent stock distilled under their stewardship, or perhaps it means I’m a hopeless peat fanboy? Who knows; in any case, I’ll be rather keen to see what kind of state the Bunnahabhain 12 is in circa 2025-2026 when the bulk of the whisky’s components are of Distell era.

Score: 6/10

**Good stuff.**
***TL;DR***
*Not their most complex, but clean, peaty and firm*

Nose

It noses older than its age; I’d probably guess 10-12 blind, possibly due to the use of decharred/recharred barrels which have a greater rate of additive maturation than refill casks. Regardless; sea air at high tide (not salt), meat fats dripping into a hot coal pit, smoked almonds, a hint of rock pools and crustaceans (bromophenols) with the oak contributing some good caramel, vanilla and spices. Water unlocks thyme and rosemary which add to the savoury appeal.

Palate

Lemon oil and more herbs jostle with a pleasantly ashy/burnt phenolic bitterness to lead the charge, then quite a lot of coastal smoke follows in its wake. A moderate caramel maltiness blends with the oak spices and sweetness to counterbalance the phenolics, leaving a lingering sweet/savoury impression through the finish; quite Lagavulin-esque.

The Dregs

This is not the most complex dram in this figurative tour, but what’s there is very good; young, punchy and intense Bunnahabhain peat with enough maturity and oak to fill out the profile. What’s more, everything is faultlessly clean and the oak isn’t overly active/saccharine and leaves the distillate unobscured. While the Caol Ila pushed the lower end of its score, this sneaky good little bunny pushes the top end of its score, especially when one considers the value and presentation.

Score: 6/10

Review 3/8 - Kilchoman

Kilchoman Sanaig, Official bottling, 46% ABV
AUD$110 (AUD$110 paid)

Kilchoman is unfortunately overlooked on my whisky shelves - it’s not that I haven’t enjoyed the whisky sampled from them. Quite the opposite; they maintain a pretty good batting average in my books. The house profile is well balanced with a peatiness thoroughly representative of Islay - after all, their usual malt specification from Port Ellen maltings is the same as that of Ardbeg. Or rather it was before Diageo announced the restriction of malt access.

The only justification that comes to mind for their general absence from my shelf is they can still be a smidge young, particularly out of my preferred refill bourbon casks. Accordingly, they have a tendency to substitute wood technology (first fill, bourbon, STR, sherry and various other fortified casks in particular) to compensate - there’s nothing wrong with this, it’s purely just my personal preference for distillate-lead drams.

After all, the magnificent Dr. Jim Swan (long may his legacy live) had a formative role in developing Kilchoman’s flavours as a young whisky. He did a stellar job, but it’s approaching a time where I’d like to see what Kilchoman does with a more mature collection of stock. All in all, I’m keen to try more of their whisky as it evolves with time, particularly out of some refill casks. For now, let’s look at the modern-classic that is Sanaig.

Score: 6/10

**Good stuff.**
***TL:DR***
*Peat and sherry quite contently doing their thing*

Nose

A nice coastal peat profile to start with- moderately medicinal cresols, terpenic a la green peppercorn sap, lightly citric, a nice vegetal quality and a pleasingly firm smokiness. The phenols vie with the sherry casks for dominance, which come first with mixed berry jam, then plums and dates poached in brown sugar and spices. With time in glass I see a little of the youth appear, namely some hot plastics and other synthetic materials, though the peat and sherry interplay also evolves and contributes some bacon and leather.

Palate

A solid performer. Echoes much of the nose but with a much greater sense of the sherry’s influence: dried fruits in the vein of prunes and raisins with a surprisingly up-front nutty rancio, all supported by more toasty oak geared to caramel and baking spices. The peat is still present but where the nose appeared perhaps 7:3 peat:cask by intensity, the palate is maybe 1:1 or even 3:2. I’m an unapologetic peat head, so your mileage may vary. Regardless, there’s again a hint of youthfulness with pear drops and menthol, then more green peppercorn.

The Dregs

I’m glad I revisited this, although my preferences are almost universally bourbon-centric these days, peat and sherry can be a winning combo when balanced. This is more sherry than I’d usually go for, however it fills a niche on the shelf for “big peat and big sherry”. At the price paid, I’m glad to have it. If the price stayed the same but the casks were dominantly refill, perhaps with a slightly higher ratio of bourbon and a few more years under its belt, I could see this tick up to a 7.

Score: 6/10

Review 4/8 - Bruichladdich

Port Charlotte 10yo, Official bottling, 50% ABV
AUD$110 (AUD$100 paid)

I have a tenuous relationship with Bruichladdich. On one hand, their unique approach to production (varying levels of mainland peating, tall/slender necked stills, non-standard peated malt cuts etc) ought to be commended if only for contributing variety to the whisky landscape.

On the other, their reliance on terroir driven marketing, heavy use of wine casks and the ubiquitous presence of butyric acid in their distillates all tends to rub me the wrong way.*

The latter two strike me as somewhat more acceptable in the Octomore releases I’ve tried, whereby the relatively high phenolic content does some heavy lifting in keeping a more balanced overall profile. That said, I’ve noticed my palate drifting away from those whiskies lately - they’ve their place on my shelf, but perhaps I’ve become a little more sensitive lately.

In any case, it’s been a while since I last had a dram out of this bottle, and given the high praise its eliciting from the community I think it high time for a revisit.

*For reference, butyric acid in the whisky is likely due to the overabundant presence of clostridium bacteria which commonly grow in wort piping with poor CIP (clean in place) procedures. If left unchecked, however, they may potentially mobilise downstream in production and impregnate wooden washbacks too. Clostridia produce butyric acid from glucose metabolism. It is highly unlikely that lactobacillus bacteria contribute to this default as they require a high fat content (such as in dairy) to produce butyric acid as a metabolite; ie it is not a “lactic” problem.

Score: 4/10

**Disappointing.**
***TL;DR***
*I know you love this, let me share why I don’t*

Nose

Bit of a mixed bag. On one hand there’s the very pleasant peat tones; wood smoke, lanolin and a hint of earthiness which mingle amicably with green apple, under-ripe lemon zest and some other fresh/green notes flitting between melon rinds and grasses. On the other, the butyric tones are there; parmesan and blue cheese verging on outright vomit.

Palate

This is where the points are really docked. The overall profile is great; a firm sense of gristy maltiness, excellent wood-smoked proteins with some pleasing char and lanolin, then more of those fresh green apple, melon and green grass aldehydes. Continues with under-ripe citruses, apricots and similar white orchard stone fruits. But that butyric note… it’s like trying to enjoy a good open-air concert while a large crackhead screams obscenities at you while gesturing with menacing rudeness - challenging to say the least. The butyric note is accentuated synergistically by a slight acridity which may be attributable to acrolein (another microbial spoilage byproduct) and a distinct sourness, possibly from the wine casks.

The Dregs

I think much like my aversion to many forms of sulfur in whisky, the mileage for this and similar Bruichladdich bottlings will vary massively depending on sensitivities. I should add that while the butyric notes are unfavourable for me in this context, they’re an order of magnitude less preoccupying than in Bruichladdich’s unpeated whiskies. The Classic Laddie for instance is almost undrinkable to me, and has been relegated to guest pours only. Funnily enough most of the guests seem to enjoy it, so it’s probably just another annoying idiosyncrasy of ol’ Tyree’s palate.

For reference, I’ve not yet failed to pick a Port Charlotte out of a blind peated lineup because of the butyric notes. I vacillated around the score for quite a while. So many love this bottle and it does offer some excellent value considering the presentation, but let’s just say the rest of this bottle will be going to guests, same as the Classic Laddie.

Score: 4/10

Review 5/8 - Bowmore

Bowmore Vaults Edition No.1, Atlantic Sea Salt, official bottling, 51.5% ABV
AUD$225 (AUD$185 paid)

I’m annoyed at this bottling, but I also enjoy it greatly and tend to reserve pours for special occasions. Why the dichotomy? Because this bottle demonstrates exactly how good Bowmore official releases could be if Beam Suntory gave more than a sporadic damn. Not about collaborations with luxury automobile companies or similarly perverse nonsense; just taking good distillate (which they are very clearly capable of making) and sticking it in decent casks for a solid amount of time.

The fact this release is bourbon cask-driven only bolsters those latter facets for me, especially at the given ABV. To be fair and consistent in criticism, according to some German websites there is still a lick of colour added, and the absence of a chill filtration declaration is cause for great suspicion. Based purely on what’s in the bottle though, it’s clear how brilliantly divergent this is from most of the core range in the modern era.

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Frustratingly, annoyingly good*

Nose

Am I allowed to just say “Bowmore”? Of course not, but it’s tempting.

Moderate semi-coastal peat with some smoked nori, ink, mosses, peppery terpenes - shades of Sichuan peppercorn - and a slight roux/doughiness which I tend to find in younger official bottles of Bowmore (say 12 or younger). Develops some beautiful fruits in the vein of ripe peaches, grilled plantains and subtle mandarin, though the beginnings of proper tropicality (pineapple, mango and grapefruit) are underway. Goes on with solid barley lolly maltiness and some gentle lactones in support.

Palate

Fresh, zesty, peppery, fruity and a touch more peat than the nose might have implied. Yes, this is young, and some (not me) might even call it a tad hot. The fruits, particularly peach and grapefruit, are better developed while that Sichuan character melds seamlessly with the coastal smoke to remind us this is still an Islay malt. Water is helpful, revealing even more of the fruits and suppressing the youthful heat a smidge.

The Dregs

This bottle is too expensive here in Australia and almost loses a point for it. Were it not for the better affordability elsewhere and the fact that I could source it with industry pricing, I’d be forced down to a 6/10.

As it is, the whisky is distinctly different from the bulk of Bowmore’s official bottlings and falls into the niche of fruity, medium peated and bourbon cask matured malts that I’m rather sweet on. Call it favouritism, idealism, some other ism or just plain good whisky; no matter the label, I think this bottling merits the mark, and not just by comparison with the rest of their core range.

Score: 7/10

Review 6/8 - Lagavulin

Lagavulin 12yo Cask Strength, 2014 Special Releases, official bottling, 54.4% ABV
~AUD$400 (AUD$320 paid) Secondary only

This is yet another bottle which I sourced via my club, trading personal stock for the dregs of the bottle. It’s also a whisky which causes me some anxiety to think about.

This series has received plenty of well-deserved criticism from the enthusiast community, much as with the rest of the Diageo Special Releases, for exploitative pricing and anti-drinker marketing. That’s all deserved of course, but I can’t help but feel these older bottlings represent the precipice of simpler, more affordable times in whisky.

For reference, 2014 was the year before I graduated high school, before I drank at all and thus well before I fell in love with whisky, so this is all second-hand nostalgia. Still, the feeling is palpable speaking to more veteran drinkers than myself. I’m told on release this was priced in the realm of $150AUD locally or 70 quid in the UK; about half of the retail price in Scotland for current releases.

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*A Claymore-wielding knight of old with inconvenient soul*

Nose

Yeah, alright, it’s good. Of course it’s good - that was never in question. Whopping peat; ash, smoking BBQ char with a lemon-lime-herb marinade, old engine oil, a hint of green olive, moderate shellfish bromophenols and fresh carbon paper. There’s a distillate richness too with a kerosene sweetness like aged German rieslings, maltiness a la amber ales and a pleasant pepperiness with perhaps some very minor residually youthful acetic aspects; it totally works though.

Palate

Much the same as the nose but delivering a depth and weight very few other distillates can; I love it. More ash, smoke and razor sharp citrus oils, herbes de Provence, wide ranges of petrochemicals from sweet fuels to hot bitumen, tapenade, smouldering coals in the hearth and yet more smoke. Once all that has subsided a bit comes playful caramel malt with fermenting citrus fruits (lime, marmalade, grapefruit) and a curious flash of ripe strawberry.

The Dregs

This is a claymore-wielding knight of old; dangerously sharp, outwardly angular and muscular with immense weight. Short of disliking peated whisky, it’s hard to imagine anyone that wouldn’t enjoy this. Alas, this must lose a full point for price. While I’ve tolerated the last few years’ releases for personal purchases, when I saw this bottle I knew I had to try it, but that it couldn’t be just for me - it’s simply too much money.

My whisky club enjoyed it alongside a few other very enjoyable peated drams, and I was glad to swap a partial bottle for the leftovers, not least of all so I had enough liquid to write this review. I remain a steadfast fan of the distillery, of the liquid and of the bottling series.

Diageo, however, has some soul searching to do. Metaphorically of course; being a publicly listed company their stocks can’t afford the bad business of having a soul. It is what it is.

Score: 7/10

Review 7/8 - Ardbeg

Ardbeg 20yo, The Distiller’s Art, 53% ABV
~AUD$750 (AUD$450 paid) Secondary only

What really needs to be said? Ardbeg still makes one of my favourite distillate profiles of all time from any category. Gun to my head, they probably pull top spot for me among the modern Islay distillates.

So, given that and my proclivity for peated malts in their mid-teens to late twenties, this is all very predictable, bordering on banal.

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*Reminds me of why I love this style*

Nose

Beautiful and quintessentially Ardbeg with much vivacious energy despite the age. Full of tarry, medicinal and creosote-like cresols with swathes of punchy coastal smoke, dried herbs, old school ointments and balms, subtle black pepper and even traces of vinyl adhesive tape. With time in glass comes hints of blackcurrants, dried lime peel, hearty malt sweetness (say, between steinbier and old ale) plus aged cigars and a pleasant mulch/leaf/vegetal/potting-mix combo. The oak is felt only moderately with mild toasty Maillard tones supporting the maltiness.

Palate

Follows quite closely from the nose (hallelujah) but starts to show its maturity better too. The cask has begun to round down some of the heavier phenolic/cresol tones and folded in delicately sweet florals, ripe lime flesh and a hint of tropical fruit salad dusted with spices. Another few years and this would probably be quite juicy. The peat is still highly expressive though and kippers and BBQ char join the fray. The finish is indeed charred and slightly burnt with more tarry cresols, potting soil, lit tobacco, gentle cask spices and delicate walnut shell. I’m infatuated.

The Dregs

Unfortunately this further reinforces my love of heavily peated Islay whiskies with decent age. Luckily this comes from a sample bottle from the leftovers of one of my club meetings from last year, so I didn’t have to fork out for the entire bottle. Were it not for the retail price, I think this would qualify for a 9/10.

I must admit, sipping it and writing this review brings a slight melancholic mood - this style of whisky can only drift further and further out of enthusiast drinkers’ reach with time. The expense brought by the category’s premiumisation is noxious and can only push it further into the clutches of investors and the wealthy seeking luxury lifestyle goods.

Is that perspective a little bitterly biassed? In all likelihood yes; it’s unavoidable. Does that mean it isn’t representative of so many drinkers who now pine for days past whereupon such bottles could be drunk without anxiety? Well, please; you tell me.

Score: 8/10

Review 8/8 - Laphroaig

Laphroaig 20yo, Cadenhead’s Smalll Batch Collection, 54.3% ABV

This review comes from another stellar back-bar offering at The Wheatsheaf Hotel here in Adelaide. If you missed my last Springbank review, suffice to say it’s my favourite watering hole in our quiet little town. When I saw the dram price on this bottle I let out an audible sigh on behalf of my bank account; it’s taken some Tyree punishment, and I’m not yet done with it.

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*Beautiful, tropical, alive and kicking Laphroaig*

Nose

Prototypically Laphroaig - even more medicinal cresols than the Ardbeg, then pine tar, bromophenols a la oysters and crustaceans, mild mentholated aspects, a big dose of dry ashiness and strong lemon peel - almost like lemon furniture polish, then accompanying woody and herbal terpenes. Like the Ardbeg, the spirit is alive and kicking. Time in the glass suggests a few tropical fruits, mainly pineapple and mango with hushed vanilla and coconut softening the peripherals.

Palate

The balance here is brilliant - the cask has been gentle and lets the spirit shine. The phenolics are still front and centre; medicinal, ashy, terpenic bordering on pine resin and just a hint of a brettanomyces barnyard-like tone. The tropical fruits are better developed here with an added ripe juiciness and slight grapefruit citrus zing; still fairly dry overall, but the esters/thiols etc burst through retronasal wonderfully. Mild cask lactones and vanilla through the finish lending nicely to the tropical/citrus balance.

The Dregs

As usual, The Wheaty has offered some incredible value on a whisky I otherwise wouldn't have been able to try. At $25 a pour, this is cheaper per unit volume than I could have bought a bottle at the last auction (2021) here in Australia. When I thanked Jade for the pricing of this brilliant bottle, she was characteristically relaxed about it, bordering on nonchalant - offering value and interesting experiences for enthusiasts is evidently all in a day's work. Viva la wheaty.

Score: 8/10

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. TK

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