Official Bottling 2024 Release | 48% ABV

Score: 7/10

**Very Good Indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Tropical fruits with an excellent flavour journey on the palate*

Festivals and Fruit

I’m not a frequent festival goer. Not because I don’t want to be, but family life makes it difficult to have whisky weekends away. Leaving my wife to be a solo parent on a regular basis isn’t fair and she would understandably like some weekends away as a family, rather than them all being for Daddy to go off and drink whisky.

I have to pick and choose carefully which I can attend, but Glasgow is always number one on the list.

Not just for the festival itself, but the entire fun-filled weekend which encompasses it. I booked months in advance to be there.

However, this year there was a new festival in town, and not just any town, but a town local to me which I could travel to in less than an hour. The picturesque seaside town of Llandudno was to be host to the first ever Wales Whisky Festival, and it was taking place the weekend before Glasgow. Being the Wales Whisky Festival, it is understandable that Welsh producers are at the heart of it, but there are distilleries from Scotland, England, Ireland and beyond present too.There was no way I was missing it, and the fact I could be there and back the same day meant I could square it with my wife quite easily.

After a short train journey along the north Wales coast I reached the magnificent St George’s hotel, with its stunning Victorian architecture and superb promenade location. I should have taken a picture, but my mind was focused on getting inside for the whisky, standing in the queue like a rabid dog waiting to be let off the leash. It’s easy to look up the hotel with a quick Google. Other search engines are available, but I don’t think anyone uses them.

I walked through the door to be welcomed by the ever cheery Mike and Duncan from the Honest to a Malt podcast, who were helping out on the day in their specially created podcast branded pink hoodies, handing out glasses and wristbands as attendees walked in. If you’re not already, then I’d recommend you give their podcast a listen.

Penderyn distillery had a prominent position right by the entrance and it was understandably busy from the get go. The best plan of action was to navigate my way around the bottle neck and into the main hall to see what was on offer. Looking up I notice the spectacularly ornate Wedgwood blue and white relief ceiling, beautifully lit by the crystal chandeliers suspended from it, with large mirrors reflecting that grandeur further. All very posh for a whisky festival.

Whisky is still at the forefront of my mind, I can enjoy the surroundings once I have dram in hand. I make a beeline for DJ at the Ardnamurchan table, which seems like sacrilege at the Wales whisky festival, but Scotch always pulls me in and I was keen to try their new ten year old.

Such was my speed to grab that first pour it was interrupted by the rousing voices of the Denbigh male voice choir, who were opening the show and made everybody pause in place for a minute or so. The Ardna 10 was just fine and I soon realised I had made a rookie error going in cold and trying such a hotly anticipated dram first up. I returned for another taste later on which confirmed it to be a very good drop indeed, only to be pipped by what in my opinion was the even more flavourful cask strength.

I eventually made my way towards the Welsh distilleries. I wasn’t likely to see them in Glasgow so I needed to make them a priority. In all honesty, Penderyn is a distillery I have yet to fully warm to. That’s not to say they don’t produce any good whiskies and I have enjoyed a bottle of their Hiraeth and Rhiannon Icons of Wales releases, but I often find the spirit to be a little too neutral and lacking character, which is by design, with the distillery aiming for an extremely clean new make from their Faraday stills.

Their special bottling for the festival, which was a small batch sherry finish, had taken on a nice flavour from the sherry and was possibly the best I have tried to date, but my wallet wasn’t twitching at £90. I had hoped they might have brought a preview of their peated whisky produced at the Llandudno distillery, but alas that wasn’t the case. Under the table drams weren’t a thing here like they are at some festivals, or if they were I wasn’t privy to them.

Aber Falls decided to bring a rusty spoon to a sword fight, with their 40% supermarket jobby and a cream liqueur their only offerings at a festival a stone's throw from their distillery – a disappointing effort. A recently released six year old stood on one side of the table as a precious ornament which was not to be opened. I politely moved on.

The surprise to me was Dà Mhìle, a small operation in south west Wales producing organic whisky in their small hybrid still, which is powered by burning wood that heats a jacket around it. I have tried a batch of their organic single malt previously and knew it to be good, but a recently released madeira cask was even better. It’s not cheap at £95 for 70cl of 46% non-age statement whisky, but we are talking extremely small scale here. I had a good chat with Jordan from West Midlands Distillery, who was also enjoying the same dram. They have single malt now, which I look forward to trying one day.

Several pours later I decided it was time for some peat and I was keen to try the Islay and Madeira cask small batch releases from Glasgow, which a few of the Dramface team had recently reviewed. Both are excellent, especially that Islay cask. The general vibe in the community seems to be that it is giving the infamous Manzanilla a run for its money in terms of the best Glasgow release to date. Seb was behind the table, and after a good chat I moved on to another peated whisky and visited the Hunter Laing stand to try some Ardnahoe, with the Infinite Loch my pick over the inaugural by a smidge.

They also had a rather delicious sixteen year old Benrinnes from a refill bourbon hoggy, which was released to commemorate the launch of Ardnahoe under the First Editions label. At this point I took advantage of one of my five beer bottle tops I was given on entering the festival. These allow you to exchange one for a full size pour of any dram on offer. Because I wanted to try as many different whiskies as possible and favoured variety over volume it was the only one I used, but it was well worth it.

I also pay a visit to Tomatin where Simon is at the table pouring. I have been fortunate to try almost all of the whiskies on display and go for a pour of the disappointingly presented 40% twelve year old sherry cask release, but was left genuinely surprised by how tasty it was. If you want something light, approachable and sherry matured I couldn’t put you off. I taste a cask strength Lochlea as well as visits to Filey Bay, Douglas Laing to try the Strathearn and Lindores for a taste of the Friar Jon Cor chapter two. Nothing bad at all, but none scream for my attention in that moment.

As the session drew to a close I had a good chat with festival organiser Sean, who kindly invited me back for session two. With an open return train ticket, who was I to argue! I filled my belly at a local restaurant with pizza, took a walk along the promenade and returned an hour later for another few hours of fun.

Review 1/2 - Ramsay

Scapa 10yo, Official Bottling, 2024 release, 48% ABV
£50 and becoming generally available

At this point it would make sense to review a Welsh whisky, but I have to be honest and say that I don’t have one at present.

Penderyn is the big player in the market, but as mentioned, I’ve had several bottles in the past, but have yet to gel with it. Aber Falls started well with their £45 inaugural and then went down the supermarket route with 40% whisky. They do some higher abv releases, but the prices can be off putting. In The Welsh Wind is one that has my interest with their locally grown barley, but they have only dipped their toe in the water with a couple of small scale releases and until they develop a more affordable core range (if that’s their plan) then I am happy to wait. Sadly they weren’t at the festival for me to have a try. Dà Mhìle is good, but again the price is the issue. Myrddins and Anglesey Mon are bottling at 40% and Coles at 42%, which always makes the enthusiast in me wary, despite their more affordable pricing.

Instead, I am reviewing a whisky from a distillery from which we have been crying out for a well presented, enthusiast focused core range.

The sixteen year old seems to have been doing the rounds on the continent to a fairly mixed reception, but the ten year old is the first one I have seen available in the UK. At 48% and fairly priced £50 it was an instant decision to buy a bottle. It’s matured in American oak casks, which is something I hate to see on a label because both bourbon and sherry can be matured in American oak, but I am assuming they mean it is ex-bourbon. What I am finding in the glass would suggest that is the case too.

They fail to mention on the label whether it is natural colour, but a QR code on the back label takes you to a web page which confirms that, unfortunately, caramel colourant has been added. Non-chill filtered is displayed on the outer carton, but not the label itself.

I picked this up from The Whisky Exchange, which at time of writing is the only retailer I have seen it available from. That makes sense as both are owned by Pernod Ricard. I would imagine this will filter out to retailers far and wide over the coming weeks.

Nose

Rich vanilla and caramel, with tropical fruits in abundance, especially dried mango, but with ripe banana and peach notes too. Coconut, plain white candle wax and sandalwood.

Palate

Sweet honey and tropical fruits, with banana and pineapple initially, followed by sour lime and bitter oak notes which become dark and chocolatey. The bitterness subsides and it becomes creamier, with coconut cream, white chocolate and light, warming peppery spice. That creaminess continues into the finish, with light oak, desiccated coconut and green apple peel.

The Dregs

I’m really enjoying this. Bourbon cask whisky with tropical fruit flavours is always going to land with me and this one delivers in spades. A small drop of water brings out the tropical notes on the nose, as does giving it twenty minutes to sit. On the palate I am loving the sweet, sour, bitter and creamy palate journey it’s taking me on. The price and the 48% non-chill filtered presentation are big plus points, but it’s a shame they couldn’t have given this to us with natural colour. Despite that, this is very easy to recommend.

I’m hopeful there will come a time where I bring more Welsh whisky to the pages of Dramface, but at the moment I am not really finding the value to quality ratio I am able to get elsewhere. I want the scene to gather momentum in the same way the English whisky landscape has, with exciting and affordable whiskies being produced by an ever growing number of distilleries. The Welsh Whisky Society has recently been launched to help get the message out there and promote the industry, but it will be the distillers who will need to create the products whisky enthusiasts are looking for at competitive prices before we can start singing its praises.

I met so many fantastic people, some of whom I was already acquainted with, and others who were complete strangers before that moment. Only at whisky festivals have I ever experienced such a wonderful bunch of friendly folk. I will be back next year and would encourage you all to do the same.

Now I’m suitably warmed up, it’s on to Glasgow next...

But first; Wally’s take on this Scapa 10.

Score: 7/10 RT

Review 2/2 - Wally

Scapa 10yo, Official Bottling, 2024 release, 48% ABV
£50 and becoming generally available

The wax and wane of whisky. Its ebb and flow; ups and downs. Fascinating to witness. But, for a while, Orkney’s other distillery, Scapa, has been on a downer.

More often than not, in recent times they were closed, but they’ve been clipping along nicely for the last decade or two, with some significant investment and a spruced up visitor centre - which I’m admittedly yet to visit. I fancy Orkney one day. Bet it would be epic.

Anyway, due to the fact their whisky was either ancient and rare, or youthful and sharp, I suspect the recently retired Skiren and Glansa - both at 40% and utterly forgettable - were the only viable strategies from an outfit such as Chivas Bros, owned by an outfit such as Pernod. So we looked on, distantly and patiently, hopeful that some decent stock might one day be made available through indies to quench our thirst for our almost lost islander.

But what’s this? Actual official bottlings with decent bottling strengths and (fairly) reasonable prices? Just as we witness - with head in hands - Inver House’s Speyburn implosion. Just as they run to smelt the family jewels at the cynical altar of water and dilution, we see Scapa stepping up! This is interesting indeed.

I have tried - and have spent some time with - their brand new 16yo at 48%, but I’m sad to say that I’m left a little wanting. 5/10. Bang average. Sorry. For the age - and the price in the UK - I wanted it to be more.

Can this 10 year old brighten the Orcadian whisky horizon? I’m once more being drawn into that vortex that adorns the shoulders of the snazzy new bottle.

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Not perfect, but much perfect-er than anyone expected, we’ll take it, for now*

Nose

Sweet williams pears and sweeter apples; Mackintosh Reds, remember those? They were the sweet red apple du jour before Pink Lady came along and stole the shelf space. Fruit stays as it slides into a confectionery realm: Juicy Fruit gum, a little pink bubblegum too; Bazooka Joes, white chocolate, vanilla cream soda, ripe galia melon and lime cordial.

Palate

Froooot!

Sweet, but tempered and restrained, I check the ABV to see that I’ve not misread - is this 43%? Crazy soft arrival for the 48% ABV.

This is just a smorgasbord of fruit, a veritable bowl by the hand of Giuseppe Arcimboldo. Imagine anything yellow, green or white and fruity, you’ll probably find it here. So much so it’s easy to get distracted from the creamy white chocolate, lightest of vanilla custards, creme brulée sugars or the dusting of cocoa and nutmeg.

Water does well if it’s a drop or two only; any more and it’s easy to drown. You’ll have lost that hint of vibrance it had, it’s remarkably soft at 48%. Keeping it neat is best.

The Dregs

Look, I’m excited, there’s more here than I expected.

But now I need to caveat a tiny bit; it’s wrapped in a blanket of modern whisky. It could do with a touch more detail, a sprinkle of top notes or a searing edge of something to mark it out as hailing from the North. Something from Orkney. Anyway, that said…

This is different from the slightly moodier and richer 16yo, which also has a touch more spice, but this 10yo is where I’d put my money. There’s a fruit-fuelled vibrancy here and a price that’s close to affordable. Is it all it could be? No. Is it much better than anything we’ve had for… ever? Yes, yes it is.

Whisky waxes and wanes for one reason only - business. There is stuff and there’s a place to sell that stuff, but the bits around it and the bits in between can make a difference. I wager that every time the in-betweeny bits have worked well and been successful in producing a good product, one that’s gone on to fortify a reputation and send the grins of enthusiasts upwards, it’s been more than luck. I’m willing to bet there has been someone, somewhere, that has cared. Someone has known. Someone has given a crap.

Right now, at Speyburn, they’ve decided to destroy years of (admittedly slow) brand building and chucked the lot towards the stack-em-high-sell-em-cheap aisle. With their new rebranding, they’re diluting the gorgeous all natural 15yo and 18yo to 40%. In doing so they’re holding an empty bath and watching to see just how far that baby slides down the drain with their recklessly discarded bathwater. It’s something we’re all about to witness. Madness. Gut-wrenching madness.

It’s malt whisky. Why do they force it to play like a blend? If you make whisky from barley, in a pot still, and you want to sell it as malt, at low ABV, you are forced to compromise it.

Yet, here, at Chivas, we maybe have some swivel-eyed and against-the-grain, maniacal but canny soul. A rebel. Someone who knows, they have stood up and said “Naw. Let’s try to do this a bit better.”

They didn’t get all their own way, obvs. This is still coloured, which is criminal. But… baby steps.

They won’t give us their Glentauchers like this, but we’ll take the Chivas fruit bomb in the form of a Scapa for now, and I’ll be grateful indeed. It’s a huge step in the right direction. The step to take it even further, even better, with no colour added, is a tiny one.

But they won’t do it.

I’m here to reinforce Tav’s score. Spot on.

7/10 WMc

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. RT

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