Dutch Rye Whisky | 50% ABV

Score: 7/10

**Very Good Indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Mint almond goodness in this high-quality rye*

The underrepresented palate cleanser that malt lovers need

The main way most of us come across rye in whisky is in unmalted form as part of a mashbill, usually for bourbon, or American rye whiskey.

These typically contain a high fraction of corn in the mashbill (mostly corn for bourbon) and some malted barley to supply the enzymes for conversion of starch to sugar. The second most common way, at least for us Canadians, is in a blended whisky where (usually) light corn whisky is blended with rye “flavouring” whisky to make the traditional Canadian blended style, colloquially known as rye (flavoured).

There are examples of 100% rye whisky out there but they are not the norm. 100% ryes are also usually column distilled, bottled young, and almost exclusively matured in new charred oak. Why hasn’t rye been given the attention it deserves?

I remember when rye had a bit of a boom about a decade ago. Back then there weren’t many distilleries focussing on rye. Most of the output came from Alberta Distillers in Calgary, shipped out and rebranded to fulfil demand south of the border. The other option was the infamous 95/5 recipe from MGP. If it was 100% rye it was probably Alberta, 95% rye it was probably MGP. In today’s climate of smaller craft distilleries, we have more variety but still not many places to look for a pot stilled rye at a decent age in something other than new charred oak.

New Riff distillery produces a spirit made from 100% malted rye, but it’s given the Kentucky treatment: column stilled and new charred oak barrels. Although this produces a unique liquid that, in my opinion, can be enjoyed by both die hard bourbon and scotch lovers, it leans to the style of the former. More typical Canadian style 100% rye offerings, such as those produced by Alberta Distillers (for example, Whistle Pig), are geared more towards rye fans who want those classic rye whisky flavours hooked straight into their veins. Menthol, dill, and caraway, this style is unmalted rye grain distilled with the intent for use as a flavouring whisky in blends.

Hiram Walker’s Lot No. 40 goes the cask finish route with some of the more recent “rye explorations” releases. Column then pot stilled and finished in atypical wood, these are among the more adventurous ryes out there - perhaps closest to something enthusiasts would like to see. It’s still a bit like putting lipstick on a pig (albeit a very tasty pig) with limited innovation on the front end processes to differentiate an otherwise factory production spirit.

Rye whisky is flavourful in a completely different way to malt, and I’d like to argue it is the perfect compliment. Under the right circumstances there is much complexity and elegance to be found. Aside from the usual notes associated with this type of whisky, one can also perceive bright floral notes, fruit candies and sweet caramelised sugar tones, as well as some interesting spices not typically found in barley malt whisky, like Chinese five spice.

The devil’s grain isn’t for everyone. Similar to my brother-in-law's nephew only eating macaroni and cheese, sticking to what you know can be comforting. But I would argue that every once in a while it’s good to switch things up, if only to give yourself a different perspective on what you already know.

If Ardnamurchan is the fish course and Benromach is the meat, rye whisky is the mint sorbet palate cleanser. Try sipping a quality rye between whisky courses and you’ll see what I mean.

Review 1/2 - Aengus

Millstone 100 Rye, Dutch Single Rye Whisky, 50% ABV
£96 generally available (£60 paid in Canada)

Here’s a new (to me) rye that I’m very glad to be able to taste. A bottle split between Broddy, our resident Millstone fan, and me, our self-proclaimed resident rye fan. I won’t talk about how jealous I am of his recent meetup with Earie to tour the distillery that is otherwise closed to visitors.

This rye has some good specs, clearly listed on the label. We can see why it’s called “100 Rye”: 100% rye grain, 100% pot stilled, 100 months old (8 years), and many other 100s, including 100% milled by Dutch windmills.

Nose

Lots of cool mint on the nose - spearmint? Evergreen. Vanilla, brown butter and caramelised sugars. Apple strudel, tarte au sucre. Nice Christmas-y spices - ginger, cloves, and nutmeg. Slight beeswax.

Palate

Sweet and savoury we have some greasy 5 cent candies from the corner store; Swedish berries, big foot candy, cherry blasters. Almond extract. Oily liquorice comes through - breakfast sausages with anise? Vanilla and well measured oak bring us back to earth. A bit of a cooling sensation as it spreads through the mouth.

The Dregs

This is a very pleasing whisky with a lot going on. My first couple sniffs were all about the mint, subsequent sessions revealing more rounded aspects, baked goods and spices. In the mouth it was all about the candy until I noted the almond extract and couldn’t untaste it. Amaretto vibes. The price is great considering the quality of this whisky and it is definitely recommended.

While my search for interesting ryes to explore will continue, this is a good place to stop off for a while and admire what a 100% pot stilled rye can do. The difference here from the typical Canadian or American styles is a roundedness and lack of sharper or perhaps harsher tones that might be a barrier for malt lovers. I’ll continue to look for longer aged rye whiskies, or those in used casks - let me know in the comments if you have any suggestions.

Score: 7/10 AMc

Review 2/2 - Broddy

Millstone 100 Rye, Dutch Single Rye Whisky, 50% ABV
£96 generally available (£60 paid in Canada)

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Dense, oily, and clingy*

Nose

Dark rye bread, gingersnap cookies, dark molasses, and hint of ground cloves. There’s an element of chili flakes soaked in greasy cheese oil atop a diner pizza slice. Not umami-like, just a sense of oiliness. Pushing past these flavours and the light hint of vanilla, a wintergreen-like mintiness lurks below. There’s the rye-derived herbaceousness but thankfully, no dill!

Palate

Full and dense with flavours tightly mingled together.

Oodles of baking spices, firm toasted oak, almond nougat, toasted almond slices, dollop of French vanilla ice cream on toasted dark rye bread. No weird herbal or green notes, something that I very much don’t miss.

The finish is long and oily, with an interesting back-of-throat cooling effect after inhaling cold outside air after having a breath mint. This whisky clings to the teeth and gums for quite a while.

The Dregs

I’m not a huge fan of rye whisky. But since Aengus tossed me a sample of the 6 yo New Riff Malted Rye, I’ve been slowly converting to the malted rye side of things. Luckily for me, I had kept 20 mL or so of the New Riff whisky whereas Aengus had recently rinsed his bottle and couldn’t compare the two side-by-side like I can.

The New Riff is much more floral, and dare I say slightly rose-scented soapy/potpourri-like when nosed side-by-side. It’s subtle on it’s own but absolutely jumps out when compared. The Millstone is much more along the darker vein of olfactory descriptors. I like the Millstone nose more.

On the palate, the New Riff is much thinner and lighter in comparison, with fewer distinctive flavours going on. Again, the floral/potpourri notes pop up in comparison. Another “W” for the Millstone.

ps: I would like to amend my score on the New Riff Malted Rye. I know I gave it a 7/10, but in fairness, that was the first rye I had ever really connected with so I was enthusiastic. But when comparing it to the Millstone 100 Rye here, which is truly a 7/10, I would amend the New Riff down to a 6/10 like Aengus had. As always, context is everything and up until this Millstone, I didn’t have enough mental data points of rye’s that I enjoy or other malted rye’s to compare this Millstone against. I’ll confess to that!

Score: 7/10 BB

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. AMc

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