Waxhouse Glen Elgin
005 Bottling | 54.2% ABV
Score: 5/10
Average. In A Good Way.
TL;DR
A young and vibrant Glen Elgin that, while enjoyable, could have done with longer in the cask
Elgin No More
Put on the spot and I’d say my favourite whisky of 2021 was a Glen Elgin from Watt Whisky. There were other highlights including the Gordon & MacPhail Ardmore, which immediately springs to mind along with the Springbank 10 year old. There are obvious candidates, fuelled by 90+ scores that triggers demand, the vicious circle of escalating prices and rising prices.
The Watt Glen Elgin seems to have fallen mostly into the hands of drinkers. A fortunate end and what the Watt’s want to see with their releases. A positive outcome also applies to Glen Elgin in general, particularly to those who missed out or even just had a dram. Many were forced to think again or set out to discover this Diageo owned distillery, which mainly exists to support blends.
There’s a realisation that not every other single cask release of Glen Elgin will be as good, or at least I’d hope so. That bottling was a wonderful coming together of spirit and good quality wood. Not all single casks are the same! Hence the enjoyment you can experience from exploring.
Being a whisky explorer comes at a cost. The majority of us aren’t able to purchase bottles without too much emphasis on cost. Money is tighter and the Scottish-like grip on our wallets (or phones for the modern spender) went up a notch in 2021 and we expect that theme to continue throughout 2022. The price of petrol seems like a blank IOU to the large corporations and simple things, like £1 multi-pack crisps and other pound bargains, all seem to cost £1.25 nowadays.
Meaning, we’re going to roll the dice less when it comes to whisky. More than ever, word of mouth and sources you trust come into their own. Tastings which briefly appeared last year, seem to have paused or returned to their online sanctuary. The outlook is becoming more positive thankfully after a torrid time. Storm clouds await with all these economic hardships that will impact the majority of us. Maybe it’s just me? I don’t find kind words from our millionaire Chancellor Rishi Sunak much comfort, even after a couple of drams.
Among all this economic volatility, we have a prosperous independent bottling scene. There are so many new names and some remain a mystery. I had seen the early releases from Waxhouse and some positive comments online. Brand recognition is where it started and ended. I just wasn’t able to spin the wheel and pick up a bottle on whim – even for well-priced releases that they’ve been putting out.
Formed in 2018, the Waxhouse Whisky Company is another product of those pub chats that can descend into madness and remain in the bar, going nowhere and fading into time. Many a great whisky idea and scheme has been hatched during a session or gathering of friends. The Mackmyra distillery immediately springs to mind as a prime example. The best ideas aren’t always constructed in drab office environments by industry professionals. Informal settings, with friends and strangers can be a fertile bed of possibilities. Perhaps this is why Google and other silicon companies try to make their office environments as fun and relaxed.
We can thank the St Albans Whisky Club for the environment that prompted three individuals to hatch their own independent bottling label. Focused on the liquid and nothing else, here you can read more about the Waxhouse origins.
Whenever I think about this thriving sector of the independent bottling scene, I remember they were called armchair bottlers by Gordon & MacPhail many years ago. I’m sure that wasn’t derogatory, merely just a reflection of their part-time and small nature. In the last five years the armchair scene has exploded, meaning more single casks for all us and choice.
“Choice doesn’t necessarily equal quality in all cases. ”
And some independents are charging more than official releases which is taking the proverbial. But just move on and take whatever spending power you have elsewhere. That’s consumer power and I expect one that will be deployed more so as we move throughout 2022.
During my retirement from whisky articles – technically, I still see myself as semi-retired or maybe more gradually fading – I found myself being sought out for opinion on releases or potential gems. More so than in previous years. Enthusiasts want a better experience for their disposable cash and quite a few had been burned. Misled by some reviews, or just bad choices. We can be influenced and influencers, but not everyone appreciates the power of their words, in print or online.
Honestly, I became slightly fed up of being expected to highlight something worth purchasing by those looking for investment bottles. I’d rather recommend a good whisky that is going to be opened and enjoyed. I’m not here to live others whisky journeys; that’s not sustainable. So much so, that my own whisky journey began to suffer. The bottles in my office were mostly alien to me. Sitting idle, tasted and left to gather dust. Purchased for the wrong reasons? Throughout the pandemic I’ve moved most of these into the hands of grateful recipients. A whisky clearout and hopefully bringing some joy to those I’ve chosen to share these with. Who will do the same among their circle of friends?
Comments I’ve received do underline the enjoyment that many have experienced from these idle bottles, and I’m glad my generosity is bringing some delight in these difficult and expensive times. For now, a return to Glen Elgin is on the cards.
Review
Waxhouse 005, 10 years old, 54.2% ABV
£65 online
My thanks to George and whoever donated this Waxhouse bottling as part of his advent calendar effort in 2021, which I’ve previously written about via a clutch of Scotch Malt Whisky Society releases.
Distilled in April 2011, this Glen Elgin was bottled in September 2021 at 10 years of age. An edition of 330 at 54.2%, it retails for £65 and there are still bottles available on the Waxhouse website. It’s also natural colour and non chill-filtered. I also had a rummage down the back of the sofa and plucked out another Glen Elgin sample – this one a 2007 release from Càrn Mòr. Released in 2021, bottled at 47.5%, this 13 year old was matured in a PX sherry butt and produced 508 bottles. So, you’re getting two for one and hopefully a bargain, kicking off with the Waxhouse.
Nose
Soft pears, honey, lemonade with a bit of fizz and fresh wood. Vanilla, crackers and flashes of grapefruit. Also, memories of rice pudding with the charred topping, ice cold grapes and a touch of earthiness on the end.
Palate
Zingy and youthful. The Glen Elgin fruits are present and correct if not fully developed. Sherbet lemon sweets, a light honey and very sugary. One for those that enjoy a light and refreshing dram.
Score: 5/10
Score: 3/10
Disappointing.
TL;DR
Too much wood
Review
Càrn Mòr 2021 release, PX sherry butt, 47.5% ABV
Sold out online but you may find a bottle somewhere
Nose
A damp wood pile, dark chocolate and nutmeg. Rye spice and hints of bourbon in places. Charred beef, brown toast, orange and boozy soaked cherries. An old travelling chest that’s been sitting idle in the attic for too long, musty, fudge and cloves.
Palate
Bitter, oaky, hard old wood and verging on unpleasant. This has gone too far in the wood. Plastic fake leather, mulch and peppercorns. Quite disappointing.
Score: 3/10
The Dregs
The Waxhouse is young on the nose and vibrant nevertheless. It’s solid enough without really pulling you in any direction and demanding your full attention. Easy drinking and bottled too soon. I wouldn’t rush out to purchase this given the option. However, I’d be keen to check out more Waxhouse releases, but I’d leave this one on the shelf for something else.
On the flipside, the Càrn Mòr is a total contrast. Dominated by the cask, it lacks the youthful vitality of the Waxhouse and feels old, genteel, abused and broken. One that’s been missed and gone over the edge and spiralled into wood hell. I dunno if you’d call this a sherry bomb as there’s no balance or resemblance of an enjoyable dram or a good sherry. The nose is a more positive and assured experience yet doesn’t remain a reason to purchase this Càrn Mòr.
Quite a contrast and neither within sight – never mind touching distance – of the Watt Glen Elgin. It just goes to show you how varied single casks can be and the influence of time and wood. The fun part is navigating it all.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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