Springbank 15yo
2021 Release | 46% ABV
Score: 5/10
Average.
TL;DR
Feels shackled by the cask, dense and confused.
Batch Variation Is A Double Edged Sword
Walking down the lane towards Springbank distillery, resisting the urge to skip with delight, it feels with each step that you’re drifting back in time to the Victorian era. The faint hum of newly installed street lighting and the sounds of a working distillery fill the void as you move away from the hustle and bustle of Campbeltown into a living, breathing, time capsule.
A romantic introduction indeed, and from the heart. But if you’ve made that walk and turned the corner into the Springbank courtyard, you’ll understand the feeling and the emotive nature of the setting – how special it is and how we should celebrate its existence. There were once many distilleries such as this that have been lost to time. Demolished, entombed under concrete, turned into a hotel and much worse besides. They’re gone for good, lost to the nation and enthusiasts and for what? A retail park, a housing estate or other buildings that are doomed to become dormant and ultimately suffer the same fate? We’ve gained nothing other than the option to purchase a carpet from yet another outlet, and in doing so, have lost everything.
Arriving in the Springbank courtyard, where time has stood still for aeons, any change is assured and slow. A recent arrival is the introduction of a bar. Perhaps a sign of how difficult it is to get a full bottle of Springbank, but at least you can have a dram and show your face. Even with the demand of changes, there’s a staunch faithfulness to things of the past, their importance and reliability. The team recognise their duty as custodians to those that have been and those that will come.
Once upon a time, this would have been an environment repeated across Scotland with the distillery gates firmly closed to visitors. Even Alfred Barnard, of the epic distillery tour fame between 1885-87, had to ask at the gates or write to owners in advance to ensure a warm welcome and tour of the premises. My own Glen Mhor research has highlighted how those barriers were enforced, ensuring that details, recollections and photographs of the innards, are so hard to come by and yet so precious once found.
No such problem at Springbank. There’s a wonderful feeling when walking into the still house for the first time, or even better, watching the faces of others on their first tour. No, I’m not going to talk about the distillation 2.5 process as that’s worth a feature on its own merit. There’s a historical legacy to doing things in a certain way. You’ll see it at Mortlach for instance. A methodology and purpose that doesn’t make financial or practical sense. Thank goodness for the bygone founders and distillers, who pursued character and flavour above such considerations, and they continue to have my gratitude.
“A common defence is that pricing is very personal, as such it shouldn’t be offered an opinion. ”
Speaking of thanks, this review is very much a community effort. My appreciation goes out to Phil for the lead photograph (his website is recommended) and to Max for the sample that I wasn’t expecting that prompted this review. The Springbank 15 year old is very much the runt of the litter. Lacking the immediate pricing accessibility of the 10 year old, the cask strength of the 12 year old and the air of exclusivity suggested by the 18 and 21 year olds. Even I’m guilty of overlooking it . Sorry. The 10 year old is an automatic purchase with the 12 also in hand. I tend to debate the 18 and 21, leaving very little space for the Springbank 15. That’s how it used to be, as nowadays any bottle with Springbank written across it is snapped up quicker than a wallpaper donation by Boris Johnson.
Get the binoculars out.
Now, here’s where we’d perhaps insert some affiliate links, which is on the cards for Dramface going forward. We want to point you to the independent retailers as much as the big boys that deserve your support. Not those that try to sell at retail with an enhanced profit margin. Yet the madness around all things Springbank has encircled and captured the 15 year old. Apologies. Whisky favours the brave if you get out and visit some shops… you might be successful.
Review
Springbank 15yo 2021, 46% ABV
Nose
Initially stagnant, like a fermentation pool. Time is necessary as the oak spice and copper sheets with tea leaves weaken their grip. Candied orange peel, an old sailing canvas, brass tacks and a touch of peat. This brings earthiness, root ginger and chestnut mushrooms.
Palate
Muggy, earthy, mossy. Wet bark, kindling and fudge. Wild blackcurrants, chocolate and white mushrooms. Chilli flakes, gunpowder and whole nutmeg. Black peppercorns and wet rubber.
The Dregs
This is far from the best Springbank 15 year old I’ve tried. Sometimes the appeal of these annual releases is they can vary so much and yet the lack of consistency can also work against it. This 2021 bottling feels shackled to the cask, dense and confused. Springbank needs to be free and able to swagger. In doing so, enthral and captivate the drinker. Despite the sublime blending of the Springbank 10 year old in 2021, this particular older sibling has fallen short of such lofty heights.
Score: 5/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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