Islay 31yo Whisky Sponge Edition No.61
Decadent Drinks| 51% ABV
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
A true “special release”
Let The Whisky Do The Talking
In this era of pricing, availability and all sorts of other economic factors, the whisky market clearly isn’t about whisky anymore. Other mechanisms are at play, but for many of us still vested (rather than invested) in this mere liquid, it is still worthwhile despite all the accoutrements.
There’s always a happy medium to be found. At the moment, I believe we’re seeking that parity in the market and, in many ways, in our interaction and understanding of whisky. Retailers are finding new ways to accommodate sizeable demand around certain releases, with Royal Mile Whiskies recently delivering their Springbank allocation to local bars to sell by the dram. Independent bottlers are struggling to find good casks — or should I say, affordable casks?
Official bottlers are upping prices, and some are engaging in new gimmicks (such as Glengoyne with its new whisky packaging that creates a mobile phone blackspot). Whisky history is littered with gimmicks around selling more bottles, and it always will be.
In fact, we should be seeing less packaging going forward as a necessary step — adding more seems ill advised. Yes, there’s a cottage industry around packaging design, and Macallan must have an army underneath that hill working on their next concept, but we have to change.
Speaking of change, there’s the dubious entry into the world of NFTs or Non Fungible Tokens which was triggered by a recent Ardbeg release. The whole concept was barmy at the NFT stage, never mind a barrel being buried in a peat bog for three years only to be dissected into digital tokens that can be exchanged for a bottle if you were compelled to buy an NFT. Somehow, many did at an asking price of just over £2,300 per token (or bottle, in the physical sense).
As onlookers, we can all judge and vote with our own wallets. If someone wants to engage in such a gimmick for their own fun, or even the prospect of profit, then that’s their call. Personally, at that price, it was never going to be a whisky that was pitched towards me as a consumer. I just hope that this particular gimmick doesn’t take off.
As someone reminded me during a recent podcast recording (it might have been Gregor), I’ve been into whisky for quite some time. Such statements aren’t anything new: my sister will often retort this line. Thing is, it doesn’t really matter in the scheme of things. Most of those marvellous whiskies I fondly remember are long gone or assembled in the basement of a townhouse in Chelsea. That’s life, and it’s the way of what we’re seeing in so many sectors nowadays. Each new day brings new possibilities and potentially your next favourite pour, so let’s try to look ahead rather than back.
Nowadays, I’m buying less whisky — I expect even less when my household energy deal runs out later this year. I find enjoyment in a dram with friends or family. It could just be the excellent value offered by the Shackleton whisky, or a modest Cadenhead’s bottling in the form of a Bunnahabhain 5 year old that I’ve been really enjoying with Rose lately. These are my brief moments of relaxation and enjoyment during the hectic cycle of life. And like you, I probably have too many things opened, with the office floor becoming an obstacle course of glass-themed hazards. Time to cut back and enjoy what you already have.
Less quantity and more quality probably isn’t what the Scotch whisky industry want you to pursue as a methodology — especially as the UK government seems intent on tearing up international law and prompting sanctions. In spite of this, I do believe it is the way forward for many of us. Have your affordable staples such as the Shackleton or even the Thompson Brothers SRV5 blended malt. These will allow you to purchase the occasional special release as a treat (I’m not promoting Diageo here).
No, ‘special’ is in the eye of the beholder. My most prized bottle isn’t one of the array from Glen Mhor or other closed distilleries, but rather a simple 1970s Teacher’s Highland Cream bottling which belonged to my grandfather.
“Sea spray, rubbed limes, pumpkin seeds and beeswax highlight that this is a voyage of discovery and joy.”
If you save enough and have the compulsion, you can check out an independent bottler such as Decadent Drinks who have kindly provided the samples for us to review today. To be fair, I have to save up for some of their releases or walk away when faced with something that is lovely, like a recent Balmenach, buts hit me at the wrong time. Picking casks is a real skill for bottling, but going forward I expect this will have to be done in tandem with a less cash-rich market and releases that can appeal to a wider audience.
Let’s start with an amuse-bouche which in its own right is downright decadent and a perfect way to kick off. The 28-year-old Cognac that is the fifth Cognac Sponge release is a vatting of two casks from 1990 and 1992. After these got to know one another, the strength was slightly reduced to 57.7%. As with most cognac releases on the Sponge menu, these take a little longer to find their next home — you can still pick this up for £155.
Review
Two casks of Fin Bois, 57.7% ABV
£155 from Decadent Drinks
Nose
Ripe plums, well-worn cherry wood, and a tinge of alcohol to remind you what it is. A real sense of density with red berries, orange peel and raspberries bubbling through. Red apples, yellow raisins, chilli flakes, weak coffee, and those spent gunpowder caps from my childhood.
Palate
An enjoyable texture initially greets you before the wood kicks in. More plums and raisins. Strawberries form the centrepiece of proceedings, with dried fruit, apricot jam and orange oil. Delicate notes of nuttiness with walnuts, marmalade, vanilla and figs.
The Dregs
I really enjoyed the cognac. Perhaps you’d be expecting more from such an age statement on the palate but there’s a simplistic elegance and approachability to the liquid. Very quaffable. While I’m no cognac authority, I’ve had a few over the years and always found them to be entirely satisfying.
No score
As the support act steps off stage to deserved applause, we prepare for the main event, the headliner and main attraction. This 31-year-old hails from the distant shores of the whisky island otherwise known as Islay. Bottled at a pleasing 51%, the distillery might be undisclosed, but we all love a bit of speculation. Recently, we’ve seen several casks come to market from Laphroaig — I’m not saying that this comes from that distillery; it’s just a trend.
Review
Whisky Sponge, A secret Islay, 51% ABV
£465 available direct from Decadent Drinks
Nose
Seaweed and old rope laced with the legacy of sea salt and strenuous effort. Old wellies, pencil shavings and a light coastal peat. Wet wool and mint imperials bring depth, but it’s the presence of tinned tropical fruits that will delight most. Faint memories of iodine and paraffin oil. Sea spray, rubbed limes, pumpkin seeds and beeswax highlight that this is a voyage of discovery and joy.
Palate
A wonderful prolonged finish awaits that is peppery and salty, almost umami-like in its subtly and depth of flavour. The texture is lightly oiled and not dense to any degree. Liquorice, dark chocolate and charred cask. Mint leaf, chalk dust and lemon juice. The tropical fruits now come through with pineapple, green mango and guava.
The Dregs
There’s this human urge to jump right into the main attraction. Cast aside the support act and gorge yourself on the big numbers or rare names. There’s always something to be said for a double act and pairing. At times with whisky critiquing, things can become very scientific and dull. Cognac might not be what Dramface does (almost) on a daily basis, but there is validity and joy in the alternatives.
As prices push upwards for average and mediocre whiskies. I really have to step back and look at what else my money can entertain. Yes, even Cognac will be becoming more expensive, but not at the ferocious rates of whisky. It isn’t too detached from whisky and can be seen as a foreign cousin, who is good fun and provides new experiences.
As for the Islay, this elder statesman is very refined and delightful, reminding us that there’s more to a whisky from this island than just a blast of peat. It’s a treat that is all the better for the slow approach and building up to the main headliner.
Score: 8/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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