Equilibrium Two 16yo Whisky Sponge
Decadent Drinks| 55% ABV
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
A fun concept that’s come to market at a price.
We Need To Talk More About Edradour
This quaint distillery situated in the hills above Pitlochry is producing some great whisky. Providing the platform and opportunity is the latest Equilibrium concept from Decadent Drinks, which features the abominable Whisky Sponge.
This young indie bottler has healthy access to the Signatory inventory that you’ll find resting on the Edradour site. For those unaware of the Signatory bottling range, it has been one of the most impressive bottlers in Scotland since Andrew and Brian Symington hatched their vision, way back in 1988. Then set about purchasing an inventory to supplement their bottling requirements that are mostly seen nowadays as the Cask Strength and Un-Chill Filtered ranges.
A tour of those impressive warehouses – where you wanted the tour guide to accidently lock you in – remain a vivid memory in my own whisky journey. Ancient casks from long departed distillery names were aplenty, as were numerous casks from distilleries that normally wouldn’t slip into the hands of the independents. Such was the clout and trust that Signatory built through their diligent work. Yes, this was several years ago now and our guide at that time really only wanted to talk about Caol Ila (her favourite), despite the array of casks within these buildings.
The Signatory warehouse compound is rarely breached, but Decadent have formed a strong bond (sorry) and consistent avenue of releases that stem from the Signatory vaults. Now, we could use this as a stick to poke the sponge with and I’m sure some have, but I’d rather look at it from another angle. Let’s think about record labels. You’ve got your major stars and staples that drive sales like the Carpenters. But there’s another sector of the market and a possible worthwhile interest. You could think punk or another non-mainstream genre, but not sea shanties as I’m glad that didn’t come through recently.
“The cleft which hides it would have been the perfect site for illicit distilling, and there is no doubt that much went on in the area before a group of local farmers founded Edradour as a co-operative in 1825, as a way of making high-value products from their own malted barley.”
Signatory has their own ranges to support plus retailer exclusives. There’s also Edradour to consider with its own core range and unique offerings. So, for those experiments, oddities or casks that don’t fit well into the dynamic of the cask strength versus whatever other range. There needs to be a label or avenue for these to do their thing and be released into the world. Equilibrium being a good case in point. You could start a totally new label if you had the time and resource, or form a relationship with someone that fits the bill. So, in my mind at least that explains the connection and also the level of trust. You can buy from brokers and it comes with its own benefits and risks. There’s the philosophy of buyer beware which I’d envisage isn’t a factor with Signatory and the relationship.
As consumers we can benefit if we’re happy to pay the entry fee. A blend of Edradour and Ballechin isn’t something you’d expect to see from Edradour or Signatory, but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t exist. After all, why not blend and see where things take us? What might seem mad on paper might just surprise… and that’s the exciting part when whisky is verging on a predictability at times that isn’t stimulating.
When it comes to pricing is it easy to rinse the Sponge and talk about some of the releases. I’m torn at times as I thoroughly enjoyed the 33 year old Balmenach I had recently (thanks to James for the sample) but did baulk at the price. I do hesitate at several of the prices, truth be told. Although many continue to sell-out, underling we all have different motivations and a whisky appetite. I am on record during one of our Podcasts (the popularity of which continues to amaze) that my motivation this year is quality over quantity – except when it comes to Glen Mhor.
This unique blend of Edradour distillates is 16 years of age and both come from 2nd fill sherry hogsheads and slightly reduced to a more leisurely bottling strength. I’m pleased to see 2nd fill sherry casks as these are underappreciated. So much nowadays is bold and brash when it comes to sherry. It can be a perfect accompaniment rather than the main event. Edradour and Ballechin are both proven to work well in sherry. So, even if this release is beyond your own price appetite, I’d wholeheartedly suggest you seek out bottlings of Edradour and Ballechin to experience.
Review
16yo vatting of Edradour and Ballechin, 2nd fill sherry hogsheads, 55% ABV
£165 and currently available (now with 20% off)
Nose
Mossy, chestnuts and tinned syrup. Redberries and apricot jam follow. This noses more Ballechin upfront with the presence of beef jerky, milk chocolate and damp wood, but it never takes full flight. The peated undertones remain just that… in the background. A scattering of brown sugar leading into caramel and spent tobacco. Sage, rubbed brass, foliage and the warmth of leather.
Palate
Tartness with cranberries and plums coming through. Again, the peat is kept at bay and instead the juiciness of the berries lingers. The flavours have more space to breathe. Alcoholic raspberries, coulee and a pleasing level of sweetness. Juicy oak, BBQ flavours, dark chocolate and blackcurrant resin.
The Dregs
I like this, but in saying that, it doesn’t propel me into admiration as such. There’s a reassuring marriage between both elements and a drinkability that neither would possess on their own. What might have been too much sherry on paper is thankfully absent upon the actual experience. The same outcome also applies to the robust peat delivery that you expect from a Ballechin.
For my own tastes this is too calm, too of the equilibrium to make a statement. And at £165¹ I just wanted more than the evident harmony; I’ve got the Carpenters for that. I wanted more emotion, passion and gusto. Moving on, this bottling does tick the brief of showing you can combine two very different styles of distillate from Edradour and go in another direction. Perhaps to some enthusiasts it is the ideal gateway into the distillery site without stepping through those Edradour gates?
¹Since writing this article, a 20% reduction has appeared earlier this week.
My thanks to Angus for the sample and images.
Score: 6/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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