Dramfool Blair Athol 10yo
2010/2021 Refill Sherry | 59.7% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A great take on this Highland malt
No Relation
Despite what you might think, Dramface isn’t a subdivision of, or related to, the independent bottler Dramfool. On occasions, our paths might cross, like this article, which takes us nicely into the topic of names.
As a general view, if we were to bottle our own whiskies, or I was to finally decide the timing was right for one of my casks, these won’t be reviewed on Dramface. It keeps things simple and I guess, in the eyes of some, believable.
When I initially discussed this shiny new venture, an independent destination for all things whisky, it was surprisingly agreeable. The ethics, the core team, plans and values were all straightforward. Then, we discussed the name. My background is more in making things work beneath the bonnet, than what’s on the title page. However, a certain belief was abundantly clear, something memorable, snappy and (obviously) not taken elsewhere. We agreed that ‘whisky’ shouldn’t feature in any aspect; we’d be picking off the bones of a well mutilated carcass if that was the case.
A little fun was a necessary inclusion on the menu, without overstating as such, or overloading the consumer to the degree of those enormous lists in certain restaurants. What we came up with takes a little getting used to admittedly. When it first cropped up as the name of our WhatsApp group, the members were a little surprised if not excited. Even after a few months of this project, the name has a love or hate aspect. But it prompts a reaction and that’s good and it’s what you do, rather than what you’re called in my opinion. Think of it as a chip or flaw in the memory, that given time, slowly takes over the system and becomes accepted? Perhaps there are various connotations further down the line that build upon such recognition, only time will tell.
All of which takes us onto Dramfool and Blair Athol. Names that divide opinion. My evenings around whisky enthusiasts are surprisingly beneficial, sadly not in recent years due to a pandemic you might have experienced as well. These gatherings have underlined how fickle whisky folk can be. Some are immediately turned off by a name; such as Cadenhead’s, Lady of the Glen, Dramfool etc. without even considering the contents. Then, when faced with a lesser known, or overlooked distillery, it becomes a double whammy and hard sell. A tough nut to crack, more so than a Volkswagen representative trying to sell you the latest green low emissions model.
So, we’ve got an uphill battle today. Blair Athol might attract a sizeable footfall (pre-COVID) with passing tourists who cart off a Flora & Fauna staple, or overpriced distillery exclusive. Such visits rarely translate into fandom and scouring retailers for more versions of Blair Athol, partially because single malts are thin on the ground.
Blair Athol is forever linked with the success of the Bell’s whisky brand, the distillery is a historical site and somewhat of a time capsule.
Of course, Blair Athol isn’t the original name of this distillery when it was founded in 1798, as Aldour. This original inspiration was taken from the stream, Alt Dour, that supplied the site. The name endured for 27 years until the owners decided a new change was necessary. The reasoning for this change is currently speculation and perhaps an opportunity if someone out there wanted to research the distillery to the extent that I’ve done with Glen Mhor. Current wisdom suggests that it was done to elicit favour with the local landowner, the Duke of Athol, who would have welded considerable power and influence.
Jumping forward into a more modern age, Blair Athol is forever linked with the success of the Bell’s whisky brand, the distillery is a historical site and somewhat of a time capsule. Whenever I think of Bell’s, it is the philanthropy that the family engaged in, which remains alive and a lasting legacy in Perthshire. The acts of kindness and generosity began with Arthur Bell himself and extended to his son Arthur Kinmond Bell, who financed housing at Gannochy, helped create natural areas for the public to enjoy to this day including the Perth Doo’cot Cricket Club.
The Walkers of Kilmarnock were also engaged in such beneficial activities, but it would be misleading to suggest that they were market leaders or exclusive in these pursuits. The so-called Whisky Barons were men and families of substantial means, especially the Bell family. Some Barons engaged in acts of kindness, others are looked upon less favourably given the passage of time. Very much like today’s titans of industry; only a few wanted to build a legacy that helped the less fortunate in society.
Bruce, otherwise known as Dramfool is trying to create his own legacy. This independent bottler is strongly associated with Islay and Jim McEwan, which shows his preference for the peated isle. However, it’d be wrong to just label Dramfool as an Islay fandom bottler. Despite the added dimension of letter juggling when it comes to distillery names, I can recall worthwhile releases from Glenfarclas, Tomatin and a funky Tobermory.
Review
Dramfool Blair Athol 10yo, 59.7% ABV
£50 retail
This refill sherry butt was liberated after a decade. Bottled at 59.7%, it produced 625 bottles and retails for £50, which is a good deal on paper. At the time of writing, it was still available online, assisted no doubt by the sizeable outturn and the whole name gig.
Nose
A pleasant arrival with caramel, freshly scrubbed white mushrooms, honeycomb and straw. There are ginger snaps, dry toast and hazelnuts. Festive memories of persimmon are evoked, grated orange zest, apricot and lemon curd. Newly cut wooden planks, a touch of brine and some mustard. Adding water showcases pimiento, raspberry ripple and rust debris.
Palate
Cherries, red liquorice and a touch of eraser. Cranberries, walnuts, dried fruits and plums. Red grapes, grapefruit, citric in places and tobacco. Water unlocks more fruitiness, fruit sugars and less sherried now. In places, it reminds me of a good sherried Tomatin, another Highland distillery that is worth your time..
The Dregs
Well, this certainly isn’t a 1st fill, but this allows space for the character of Blair Athol to come through. This represents great value and annually, during the festive run-in, I find myself reaching for a sherried dram. Not heavily sherried, as a balance is preferred over a blunt instrument. Quite often it’s a Glenfarclas that fits the bill, but for 2021, this Blair Athol more than did the trick. After all, what’s in a name only gives you so much, it's down to the contents to truly showcase an experience.
Compared to the Adelphi bottling of Blair Athol I reviewed recently, which was heavily sherried, this Dramfool has more of the Highland character and less of the strong wood emphasis. While this 10 year old is 2 years younger, it represents better value (£30 cheaper) and a more visible gateway to appreciate the rugged Highland qualities that this distillery can deliver.
Score: 7/10
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