A trip into the unknown

How do you keep up with the parade of whisky releases? A mission impossible that even Tom Cruise assisted by an army of clones would fail to successfully overcome.

This is particularly true of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society that releases sizeable outturns each month. When you feel it’s safe to go outside again and open your mailbox, you’re hit with a sudden mid-month outturn or special edition.

Thankfully, you always have the option to share. and over Christmas 2021, the forever generous whiskydodie, organised a whisky advent selection box. One where you donated a bottle and then received 25 drams to experience during December. A wonderful event and I gladly participated, donating a rather funky bottle. Although, I stepped away from the daily WhatsApp group debate on what each mystery dram was and the tasting notes. Now, that might have seemed aloof and unusual (if you know me), but the truth was we were in the midst of planning this website that you are now visiting and it was my focus at the time.

Catching up with these drams into 2022, it occurred to me that a clutch of SMWS releases would form a good comparison article. We have four drams available, which offers us the ability to take in the Campbeltown, Highland and Speyside regions using ex-bourbon casks. There’s fun to be had lining up a series of samples and a little additional thought in-between.

We’ll just do these in numerical order with my thoughts at the end. Kicking off with the distillery that puts the Glen in Livet. The pistol sure shot of Mr Smith and once the most famous distillery in Scotland. Yes, that’s right, we’re talking about Glenfarclas – sorry – Glenlivet!

Today, it represents a massive distillery and is seemingly forever engaged in the single malt showdown at noon with Glenfiddich. The core range is accessible and available almost everywhere. Sadly, I haven’t been taken down by an official release of Glenlivet in some time now. To be a truly mass-market whisky, means sacrifices have to be made. However, I remain optimistic that within their massive maturing stock of casks and epic annual production, there will be casks of note. Pricing remains a constant concern when these official single casks do appear ; that’s where the work of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society and others is truly worth its weight, as an official single cask Glenlivet is out of the reach of most mere mortals.

SMWS 2.119 Smith’s Quadrilogy: Baked with flowers

The distillery that puts livet into so many others.

This Glenlivet was distilled on 7th April 2006 and bottled at 14 years of age. A 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel was used and produced 212 bottles at 55.4%.

Nose

A gentle arrival with apples and brass shards. Honey, well-worn antique wood, almonds and a stale helping of grated nutmeg that’s seen better days. Buttery as well, leading into toffee penny chews. Wine gums and a sun-exposed peeling varnish.

Palate

A light brown sugar is pleasant enough, followed by vanilla and some maltiness. Caramel, buttery popcorn (no salt) with tablet, pencil shavings and nuttiness.

Score: 6/10

Just kicking the can down the road, we arrive at Balmenach. A distillery that seems more focused on producing Caorunn gin than whisky nowadays, but in fairness it’s never really managed to establish any single malt pedigree for itself. I’ve enjoyed some cracking Balmenach over the years, from some unlikely single cask indie bottlings. On the whole, these seem like casks of intervention as opposed to a rich stream of quality. My initial thoughts are this is too young.

SMWS 48.130 Yellow smash cocktail

If James Bond had a connection to a distillery, it’s Balmenach.

This Balmenach was bottled at 8 years of age from a 1st fill bourbon barrel at 60.6% strength.

Nose

Fresh and herbal with a minty aspect and a room full of sawdust. A hint of coffee and creamy in places. Toast, toffee chews and a vanilla fudge. Water brings some sweetness to proceedings with limes and more zest but that’s your lot.

Palate

Quite sweet and wine-like initially with plenty of sugar added. More limes but also quite hot in places suggesting its rawness and youthful rebellious nature. This needs water and it quells the beast, leaving us with mint leaf, vanilla and that’s it!

Score: 3/10

Now we’re jumping into the Highlands and to the outskirts of Alness. Home to the excellent Dalmore farm shop and a certain blue chip distillery. Just around the corner, is the lesser-known village distillery which has been producing whisky since the early 1800s. Teaninch has a hardcore following and I’m partial now and again to a dram of this Diageo powerhouse.

SMWS 59.66 Look into the light

The overlooked distillery in Alness, Sutherland.

This Teaninich was distilled on 12th February 2009 and bottled at 12 years of age. The refill ex-bourbon hogshead produced 168 bottles at 55% and would have originally cost £57.10.

Nose

Sliced apple flesh, pulped pears and shortbread. We’re into the cereals with oatcakes and dusty porridge oats. A floral aspect brings some relief with pine needles and there’s a sense of balance.

Palate

Continues the pleasant nose with an assortment of pleasing flavours but the end is dominated by the cask as a woodiness and oak spices take a grip. Beforehand there’s rhubarb, tea leaves, more shortbread combined with a buttery oiliness. Toffee, pancakes and toast.

Score: 5/10

SMWS 93.170 Mermaid Karate

Glen Scotia is becoming scarce, but SMWS bottlings remain buoyant.

This Glen Scotia was distilled on 16th March 2012 and bottled at 9 years of age. The 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel released 233 bottles at 58.6%. This originally retailed for £58 and has since sold out.

Nose

Initially fresh vanilla and a light peat. Mint Imperials, chicken stock and washed seashells. Wood splinters, Calamine lotion and it is all light and fragrant, if rather limited.

Palate

Oily, peat and an old engine rag. Grated black pepper, wafers and some salt midway leading into hot dog brine and a faint layer of TCP. Just not at its full potential on the palate.

Score: 5/10

Last Dregs

First, thanks to everyone that donated a bottle to George’s advent extravaganza. Every contribution was welcomed and we can only praise the work involved in making up the samples. Having put together a few tasting packs over the years, the mundane nature of the experience can defeat most individuals.

Kicking off with Glenlivet, this was solid and easy sipping territory. Hinting at potential and if you’ve been fortunate to try some old Glenlivet from the 70s or prior; what made it so popular originally. The name is rubbish, but don’t let that put you off the whisky. A gentle reminder to try more from this distillery when bottled by the independents.

Moving onto the Balmenach, which unfortunately lived up to expectations, and can only be seen as outturn filler. There’s no taster out there who would dare suggest this was at its peak or that it was the right moment to bottle. In other words, this is part of the business model rather than selling you something at its zenith. The nose has some flashes of inspiration, but the palate had you thinking it is more gin-like than whisky in places.

The Teaninich was solid enough without really winning me over. Some flourishes of promise on the palate that left me debating whether this was bottled a touch too late with the cask taking over mid-palate. Still, for the asking price, I’d consider this one a fair deal.

Last up was the Glen Scotia and this dram had some interesting almost Laphroaig elements. Taken from the cask too young, we can only hope this barrel was one of a larger batch that’ll see the light of day in the distant future.

Overall, a decent selection of whiskies (excluding the Balmenach) that are priced accordingly. Nothing to rock your world, but in 2022 and beyond, we seem to be in a climate of seeking value, while being willing to sacrifice a little quality. Three out of four isn’t a bad return if you’re on the hunt for staple drinkers rather than huge thrills.

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