Springbank 10yo, July 2022
Official Bottling | 46% ABV
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
The only Springbank ‘easily’ available to me, and still it sets the bar
A benchmark whisky, and still good value
When it comes to benchmark whiskies, it seems as if a whisky that has been matured for 10 years, is increasingly gaining importance when it comes down to providing us with the sweet spot between affordability, flavour and quality.
Quite a few 10 yo expressions from various distilleries could be taken into account when looking for benchmarks re value for money, from the ever reliable Ardbeg 10yo to the lovely and subtle Glencadam 10yo and further down the alphabet to the recent Wolfburn 10yo. I feel this is not a coincidence, as in today’s market, with all the science and knowledge under the belt of those producing whisky, in many cases, a 10 year old expression will be able to give you the near perfect balance between spirit and cask, therefore allowing us a peek at the very DNA of a distillery.
One look at the recent OSWAs nominations list, and you’ll find there’s no shortage of 10yo whiskies being represented; Arran, Ledaig and Port Charlotte are all nominated in the best value category with their 10yo expressions, and the Springbank 10yo is nominated for ‘Best Scotch whisky 2023’.
While very, very few would argue that Springbank doesn’t deserve a spot in that ‘best whisky’ category, it does say something that it’s their 10yo expression that makes the list. Not the 15yo, not the 18yo, not the 12yo (unobtanium) cask strength, but the ‘entry level’ 10yo. Might this have something to do with the fact that it’s likely the last remaining Springbank we can actually get hold of, without remortgaging our house or saying farewell to one of our kidneys?
Now the scarcity of Springbank isn’t something I feel like discussing here, as that horse has well been flogged by now, but it is remarkable, or curious at least, to see this ‘shift’ in focus towards the 10yo. As such, I will even argue that this is a positive thing, for several reasons.
For starters, there is the simple fact that people still can get hold of it, and that enough of it is still around for it to even be nominated in the first place. Second, there’s the fact that, alongside the 18yo Ledaig, it’s the only non-cask strength whisky in that category. That too tells us something about how it is regarded and revered.
So rather than complaining about Springbank becoming increasingly unobtanium, we have this 10yo, which is available if not to most of us, then definitely still plenty of us, at a not exuberant price, to celebrate and enjoy.
Review
Springbank 10yo, Official Release, July 2022 bottling code, 46% ABV
£54 in the UK, often higher in Europe and elsewhere. Equivalent of £56.50 paid. Occasionally available.
Springbank is unique in what they do and in the way they do it. One can only understand what the distillery is about when you take a look at where Campbeltown comes from.
Founded in 1828 Springbank definitely was around for ‘the good times’, but as one of only two survivors of a once flourishing Campbeltown whisky scene, it sure witnessed, experienced and survived the harsh times too. This, I feel, is where provenance; true provenance where you are deeply connected to your history and geographical and economic roots, comes into play.
It explains why Springbank insists on quality control from grain to glass and from barley to bottle; maintaining 100% in-house malting, establishing its own bottling plant and relying on manual labour are deliberate decisions to not only safeguard quality, but also to safeguard local employment.
Springbank is embedded in Campbeltown, and that doesn’t stop at the gates of the distillery. It explains why they invested in re-establishing a sister distillery in Glengyle, and it explains why every decision is made with this relationship and its surroundings at heart. It explains why they are taking considerable care to protect what they’ve built, even if that means, despite increasing demand, they also take considerable care to prevent overproducing – frustrating as that may be for many whisky lovers who are currently left empty handed.
It explains, in short, why Springbank can be, and perhaps should be, if not our favourite whisky, then certainly one of our favourite distilleries.
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
The only Springbank ‘easily’ available to me, and still it sets the bar
Nose
Citrus, orange peel, a faint touch of vanilla, creamy, grainy and dough. The ‘funk’ sits in the background and manifests itself as overripe stone fruit with a dusty, yeasty element. There’s an oiliness to this, with a gentle suggestion of peat and brine and ginger like spice. Subtle, with depth and a bit delicate.
Palate
Oily-viscous arrival, immediately followed by a dry, grainy note. There’s less fruit around now, although it’s still there, making room for more dried spices and nuts, with gentle vanilla adding a sweet element. A soft mineral note introduces an equally subtle peat touch, sitting on a dry mouthfeel, before going into a long spicy and dry finish. The farmy-funky note was more prominent when I just opened this, but slowly became subtler and less outspoken as I went through the bottle.
The Dregs
In terms of quality and value, this remains a benchmark.
If we can get past our fixation of having to pay £55-£70 for a bottle of this in today’s market, that is. After all, we’re now at a point where we’re often paying these prices and more for whiskies half that age.
This, simply put, is an absolutely wonderful whisky and from where I’m sitting well worth the money. It’s a masterclass in subtlety and balance. It brings a wonderful complexity, literally from start to finish.
Springbank spirit has the character to excel in many different casks, but when it’s primarily matured in ex-bourbon casks, I often find the results to be particularly delightful.
Yes, like everyone of us I’d like to see more of their whisky becoming available at less silly prices (especially as it’s through no fault of their own), and like you I’m frustrated that Springbank simply can’t keep up with demand. But in a way, that’s a positive rather than a negative. Especially if we care to look at things with a long term, Springbank-y, perspective in mind.
Score: 8/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EA
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