Daftmill 15yo & Fife Whisky Festival 2022
Official Bottling | 55.7% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
The big 15 is well worth experiencing and celebrating
Like Buses, Two Come Along At Once
Is there much point to reviewing a Daftmill release nowadays? This is something I ask myself every time I sit down with a dram and start writing tasting notes. In the current marketplace, all new distilleries are in demand for reasons other than whisky. This Fife distillery, more than most, has been affected by the madness.
My inaugural bottle has come and gone. Shared with many. I keep the cloth sack as a reminder of its existence and tightly hold on to those memories of seeing the reaction of fellow enthusiasts as I poured a dram for them. I know, I’m in a minority when it comes to such acts, even so, I’d recommend that if you are generous, then you’ll benefit from others generosity. If you ever have the opportunity to speak with Francis Cuthbert at Daftmill, he’ll gladly confirm that whisky is for drinking, in case you needed reminding.
Daftmill waited to bottle, arguably the whisky is more viable than the other Fife distilleries or those bottling at the first opportunity. It’s a different approach and one I’d subscribe to as being worthwhile and offering more longevity. After all, there’s nothing worse than a disappointing whisky and one from a new distillery might dissuade you from returning at a later date. It seems like centuries ago when onlookers were criticising Daftmill – as a teenage whisky – for having a retail price of £140. Consider what some distilleries are charging for four-year stock (if that) today, and the goalposts have been reassembled on another playing field.
Fortunately, Daftmill is my local distillery and has been for well over a decade now. Sure, the presence of Inchdarnie might now be the nearest on the map, but those iron gates remain firmly closed to any visitors seeking an insight into the distillery. I’ve been able to sample many a Daftmill, and like some of you, enjoy the occasional success at ballot. You win some and you lose more often; that’s just the way it goes. I always feel pity for those chasing the impossible dream of being a completist; owning every single cask or variation. Why set yourself up for a fall, anxiety and disappointment? Just enjoy what you have with those that appreciate it.
What always remains clear to me is how fortunate I am being able to try the occasional Daftmill release. There are many out there chasing and being unsuccessful. Many unable to afford a bottle. Many without a local bar that stocks the bottle to try a nip and experience what the hype is all about.
In reality, not all Daftmill’s are great, or even very good. There I’ve said it! A particular sherry cask has my disdain and the seasonal vattings offer a more tangible option for those of us seeking a bottle. Like any distillery, the ‘real deal’ are the single cask releases and this is where things become a little crazy. Single casks of Daftmill are the equivalent of the Beatles ‘butcher’ vinyl sleeve; often discussed but rarely in your possession, or even seen. Like all single casks, these vary and depend on the palate of the person picking the cask itself. Francis might be able to guide them to a suitable option, but I’m sure the final decision comes down to the retailer or distributor that has the privilege of such a pick.
What strikes me each year about the Fife Whisky Festival – other than how cordial attendees are – is the presence of Daftmill. It’s a huge draw. Arguably the most popular stand at the festival, although I suspect Springbank are snapping at their heels. Both of these relatively new and relatively old distilleries face the same problem; one of supply and demand. For all those involved it’s a chance to pour and interact with whisky drinkers, as opposed to investors and flippers. I expect there’s few greater pleasures in life than seeing your produce being enjoyed by the public and appreciated. For attendees, this is your chance to try these rarely seen drams and in doing so, feel a little special. After the past two years, you deserve that a little of that emotion.
As an onlooker, it makes me appreciate how fortunate I am to have the odd bottle and the delight that whisky can bring. We’re in an age of greed and limited editions. Shrinking pours, profiteering and a growing elitism in whisky. As the goalposts continue to be moved and upgraded, we’re in danger of leaving most of the field behind. And that’s something as an enthusiast I want to avoid.
“When morality comes up against profit, it is seldom that profit loses”
The Fife Whisky Festival, in offering a single cask Daftmill release, was a prime target for those seeking to flip the bottle. As I write this, the first couple have come up at auction. The team tried various means to get these bottles into the hands of drinkers. The scratch card was inspired and completely fair. You cannot argue with the method. But similarly, you cannot predict the canny antics of those seeking the bottle for financial gain – going so far as to brazenly approach attendees on the festival floor, offering to buy unused or successful cards for £50 a pop. I expect the excellent team at Luvians also heard the usual sob stories.
So, for what it’s worth, we’re reviewing two Daftmill releases. My thanks to Francis for pouring these samples as I was driving on the day of the Fife festival – my stubbornness and restraint is legendary! But please don’t drink and drive in Scotland. I’m glad to see more distilleries embracing the travel pack option and stallholders being considerate as well. We should celebrate those that give up their time so that others can enjoy a dram.
As much as festivals are a welcome social option for myself, they are not suitable for tasting notes. I do prefer to keep things consistent. I taste in the same room – often at the same time of day – and use the same glassware unless we’re dealing with a 1cl pour. Time with a whisky in the evening is a pleasure that we can all appreciate. With that in mind, let’s see what Daftmill has in store for us.
Review
15 year old release, 2006, 55.7% ABV
£price & availability tba
It’s amazing to think that Daftmill can bottle a 15 year old already, but here it is in the flesh. Heralding from the 2006 vintage, this is 55.7% and I don’t have any details regarding price, release date or numbers. Best keep an eye on the Daftmill 2006 page for such things.
Nose
Immediately has that Daftmill DNA with soft meadow fruits and tinned peaches including the syrup. There’s a pleasing minerality present as well. Lychees, red grapes, all-spice and a vanilla marshmallow creaminess. An elegant Lowland presentation overall. Rice pudding holds the fruity sweetness back and there’s a biscuity element that comes through with time alongside a nuttiness and toffee.
Palate
The strength provides an oiliness and lip-smacking texture throughout. Plenty of honey and oats. The meadow fruits only come into play towards the finish. Vanilla obviously and more wood on the finish alongside nutmeg and some foam bananas.
Review
Luvians Fife Whisky Festival Cask 31/2009, 58.6% ABV
£140 non-flipper price, now sold out
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A worthwhile cask pick from Luvians
Next up is the Luvians Fife Whisky Festival release. Distilled in 2009, cask 031/2009 produced 211 bottles at 58.6% strength. Hopefully, those that were successful are sharing a dram near you.
Nose
A softer arrival compared to the 15yo with coconut, grapefruit, flour and new chalk. Melon, then tangerines bring a vibrancy followed by lime. There’s a laidback gentleness to it all with vanilla and a floral note slowly making their entrance. Fig rolls beyond their best by date, well-worn oak and water brings out more vanilla and orange oil.
Palate
in a word effortless with the interplay between meadow fruits (especially pears) and vanilla. Some honey, cotton and ground almonds. Very juicy that has you reaching for another all too easily. Tonic water. A drop of water reveals rhubarb, grapefruit and oat biscuits.
The Dregs
The 15 year old has a lovely nose and I just felt the palate fell a bit short with some woodiness in places. That’s probably really picky in the scheme of things but still a strong score for a very good whisky. If all Lowland whiskies were this accomplished, then we’d be ditching the peat and heading to Fife and the surrounding areas. It really does benefit from being cask strength.
I enjoyed a particularly fine evening with the Fife single cask and some reggae dub in the background, which made for a fine pairing. It is a very good pick, certainly not worth what you’d pay on the secondary market for the experience. The flipper price on this was £170 and the non-flipper £140, with the difference going to charity. Also, a slice of the £140 resulted in a donation as well. As I stated on our podcast recently, I was unfortunate with my own scratch card at the event. That’s life. But if I had won the chance to buy the bottle, I would have paid the flipper priced and then gone over to the Daftmill stall and asked Francis to deface the label.
Ending on a positive note. I hope that you do have the opportunity to experience a Daftmill and that it lives up to your expectations. Don’t pay over the odds and if you’re fortunate to have a bottle, then please spread a little of that generosity and love around. It goes a long way.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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