Four Independent Balmenachs | Various ABV

Opening a tub of worms.

Luckily, I'm not here to lecture on the process of whisky making. Detailed definitions of each step should be delivered or explained by far more knowledgeable whisky folk than me.

From barley cultivation, milling, mashing, fermentation, distillation and eventually maturation, each step can be considered a work of art with each distillery constructing their own version (or versions!) at each location and time. Adjustments at each stage can alter the end product to such a degree that massive variables can occur, dramatically changing the end product. This can happen throughout the process and, designed or not, it continues even after the liquid has been laid down in casks in dedicated warehouses.

Whisky making is such a varied behemoth that cult-like fandom blooms around particular sub-processes, with favoured styles or choices developed through enjoying the end product. Examples include fans of particular barley strains such as golden promise, advocates of purchasing whiskies finished only in the finest ex-sherry casks, pursuers of extra-long fermentations or particular fermentation styles (chardonnay wine yeast anyone?) or perhaps a certain favourite style of partial triple distillation.

But, in my observations, there is one step in particular which seems to draw love and appreciation, and that is the condensing of the alcohol vapours; especially when 'worm tubs' are in the mix.

The use of these mysterious and traditional copper snakes steeped in cold water seems to draw significant opinion from whisky geeks; the conventional wisdom being that it tends to add weight, body and heft and, as you might often have heard, impart a certain ‘meatiness’ along the way too. Personally, I have only a general understanding of what a worm tub does for whisky and, while I enjoy it, it's not something I actively seek. At most, after doing some light reading on whichever dram I'm about to sample, after discovering its method of condensation, worm tub or its alternative - shell and tube, I make note and move on.

Yet there is a lengthy list of Scottish distilleries that, we’re told, actively benefit from the use of worm tubs and rely on them for their character and style. Even though they're notoriously expensive, difficult to maintain, mostly wooden - and susceptible to leakage, they persist. Here’s a wee list of the current worm tub distilleries for you to bookmark, should you be of such a mind:

Abhainn Dearg

Ardnahoe

Ballindalloch

Balmenach

Benrinnes

Brora

Cabrach

Cragganmore

Craigellachie

Dalwhinnie

Edradour

Glen Elgin

Glenkinchie

Knockdhu

Kythe

Mortlach

Oban

Old Pulteney

Rosebank

Royal Lochnagar

Speyburn

Springbank

Talisker

Of the distilleries with released whisky we can try easily (so excluding Rosebank, Brora, Cabrach, Kythe etc.), it’s possible to pick up the likes of Ardnahoe, Craigellachie, Old Pulteney, Talisker, Speyburn, to name but a few. But sadly, should we wish to be a completist about exploring the style, there are one or two that might perhaps evade us (let’s not dwell on the continued availability issues for Springbank for many of us).

For instance, should we wish to seek out a Balmenach, bringing us back round to today's focus, it’s an unfortunate fact that the liquid is actually pretty scarce. Destined mostly for use in blends, we’re left - once more - searching for independent bottlings. We’ll get back to the whisky shortly, but you may wish to learn a little more about this quirky element of whisky making.

The ScotchWhisky.com website gives a really nice succinct run down of worm tubs (as well as a little deep dive into their history if that interests you).

'There are two aspects. There’s the temperature of the water in the tub, and the surface area inside the worm. Generally speaking, the higher the temperature and greater the contact with copper, the lighter and less complex the spirit will become.’

Further details add how variances can be achieved when it comes to that water temperature, pipe length and the actual rate/speed of the whisky that flows throughout. It's a fascinating aspect and to be honest, it was something I didn't really appreciate until I looked into it a little more.

Also, after reviewing a recent Aqvavitae vPub, where Pär from Smögen Distillery was a live guest chatting about worm tubs, it was interesting to hear how he initially didn't have wormtubs in their whisky making process. Which isn’t surprising, given how expensive worm tubs are. Smögen moved from shell and tube condensers, which simply didn't fit with the requirements and desires Pär had. However, it was interesting to note that, especially with the sheer amount of water required to run the condensation, even in the middle of winter, they ended up with a style pretty close to that of a worm tub despite their shell and tube set up.

It’s also interesting to uncover a distillery that actively moved to worm tub condensers from shell and tube. Many distilleries, in the pursuit of efficiencies and cost savings, moved away from the practice, especially post-war. In fact the only other example I can think of is Dalwhinnie. Infamously, in the 1980s they swapped out their worm tubs for a spare set of shell and tube condensers but, over the years, they realised such a step change in their spirit character that DCL (the precursor to today’s Diageo) reinstated the worm tubs at huge cost in 1995. It would seem, in some cases, it really does make a difference.

While this isn’t, and never can be, a detailed deep-dive into worm tubs, we do have four whiskies coming up which will provide you lovely folk plenty of reading and me plenty of thinking and drinking.

I haven’t been able to stumble across any real details on the specifics of what each of the particular distilleries using worm tubs do in terms of length, temperature or type. It’s something for me to keep in mind if I ever find myself visiting any of these places. I'll be that geek at the back of the group for sure… the weirdo asking about tubs full of worms.

Anyway, back to one of the most obscure of scotch worm tub distilleries, Inver House’s Balmenach. I've collected quite the range of Balmenach of late, having fallen in love with the 'Mouth Watering Melange' SMWS bottle I reviewed previously.

Let’s review these in order of ABV.

Review 1/4

Balmenach 10yo, Thompson Bros, triple-sherry cask maturation, 48.5% ABV
£65 now sold out

This Thompson Brothers release was matured for six years in an ex-sherry hogshead, two years in ex-oloroso octaves and the remainder of its life in an ex-sherry butt: the 'sherry train'.

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*Sherried, more sherry and did I mention sherry?*

Nose

Nutty. Very malty and spiced. Sliced orange. Wonderfully sherried. Plenty of raisins, dates and dried figs. Roasted pecans and cooked apples develop after time too. More stone fruits as the fruit sweetness evolves. Plums, apricots and a touch of blackberry jam. More berry sweetness throughout, in a confectionery form now with strawberry bon bons and rope. There's a hint of lavender, heather and some dried wood shavings. Again, super malty but enticing and enjoyable.

Palate

Delicate. Balanced and a sweet rounded feel in the mouth. The mouthfeel here is wonderful, with no burn or spike of sharpness. But rounded and mellow that softens slowly with spice and a woody sweetness. A mixture of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, alongside stewed apples and warm cooked oats. Parma violet sweets announce themselves. A marvellous sherry dram here, with more oats coming forward in biscuit form. There's orange rind too. Quite doughy at times with strawberry jam layered throughout. Long spiced finish that brings more stone fruit and berry sweetness as the flavours slowly fade.

Score: 8/10

Review 2/4

Balmenach 14yo, SMWS Tawny Garibaldi Small Batch, refill & first-fill bourbon and an American oak PX hogshead, 49.8% ABV
£60 now sold out

Score: 5/10

**Average. In a Good Way**
***TL;DR***
*You could be forgiven if you thought this was a bourbon*

Nose

Thick and punchy. Quite powerful initially. It smells much stronger than the 49% stated. Floral and licks of lavender. Strong bourbon influence on the nose. A lot of wood, brown sugar, raisins, vanilla sweetness and waves of that spice we associate with bourbon: think some clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. There’s an element of funk on the nose too which is surprising. Bourbon with a hint of sulphur in the background? Interesting. Touch of plums and blackberry jam to finish it off.

Palate

Strong bourbon vibes again on the palate! This could throw folks on a blind if they sensed this was bourbon or American single malt. It’s honey forward at the beginning with some sliced apples. Stacks of wood and cherry here for days. Cola cubes, figs and grape juice. A medium finish. There’s a tiny wee element of a bitter note that’s mixed with chocolate covered nuts and blackberries. Quite ‘jumpy’ on the tongue. More cola notes, vanilla cream and liquorice sweets.

Score: 5/10

Review 3/4

Balmenach 7yo, The Whisky Cellar, refill hogshead and tawny port quarter cask, 54.5% ABV
£40 paid at auction

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*Packs quite the punch, but silky on the palate; quite enjoyable*

Nose

Fresh. Clean. A touch of dust and chalk. Smells quite tight and shy initially. Quite hard to unpack but… I'll soldier on. Some choux pastry and treacle. Hints of milk chocolate shavings. Chocolate covered peanuts. Quite fiery on the nose. A little icing sugar, vanilla sponge cake and gingerbread biscuits. Coffee beans, marmalade and lemon curd. Shortbread biscuits, fudge and chocolate caramel.

Palate

Rich. Powerful. So much sweetness up front that’s layered in decadent caramel. Toffee and fresh raspberries. Jumbo oats covered in cold milk. Figs, chocolate caramel this time with loads more fudge coming forward. A mix of peanuts, chopped grapes and tinned peaches swimming in sugar syrup. Candied peel and those raspberry ruffle sweets too. Long finish with a lasting nut and chocolate element here. That fruity foundation then dries off but leaves you wanting more. Approachable and an easy sipper for 54% ABV. A silky texture on the palate, this nice mouthfeel goes down exceptionally well.

Score: 7/10

Review 4/4

Balmenach 12yo, Cadenhead’s, amontillado sherry casks since 2020, 306 bottles, 56.5% ABV
£40 paid - perhaps still some here and there

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*Syrupy, coconut and tropical deliciousness*

Nose

Quite dry; a little soft and quiet on the first few sniffs. The sweet factor looms large here. Mixture of oat biscuits and tropical fruits. Pineapple, mangoes and a heap of coconut on the nose. Never had such a prominent coconut note before. Reminds me of some suntan lotion. It becomes more oily on the nose as it opens up, mixing in chopped almonds and cashews.

Hugely malty. Cooked oats, strawberry syrup (the kind you drizzle over ice cream) with warm mushed raspberries and cocoa powder. Hints of clove and cinnamon spice as more of that passionfruit and apricot note comes into the mix.

Palate

A welcoming spike of those tropical fruits we met on the nose. A smoothie mixture of kiwi, pineapple and that coconut. Delicious. The nuttiness comes forward with cashews and golden syrup. A little bread-like, reminding me of brown bread more specifically. Does not taste or feel like a 56% whisky. It's delicate, balanced and approachable. Nice mouthfeel which dries and becomes a little astringent over time. Plenty of sugar syrup on this one mixed throughout with delicious pineapple juice and pops of nutmeg and strawberries. A delicious and complex dram here.

Score: 8/10

The Dregs

My first sip of a Balmenach was around three years ago, where I took a punt on a random Cadenhead's bottle. I’d never heard of the distillery before, but I felt like taking a gamble and seeing what else was out there and available. Looking back, it was a weighty dram that brought density, fruit forward sweetness and a lovely lick of caramel. Not bad; the gamble did pay off and the experience had me wanting to try more.

Fast forward to the Glasgow Whisky Festival in 2023 where the Thompson Brothers Balmenach was on the table, and so many people commented on that particular dram (especially the multi-cask sherry makeup involved). I bought a bottle as soon as I got home for delivery, and have been on the hunt for Balmenach (alongside my precious Ardmore) ever since. I doubt I’ll stop with these four.

The Thompson Bros Balmenach was up first. What can I say? It’s a wonderful dram. Such a sherried joy in a glass. As enjoyable as it was when I sipped it in Glasgow, no romanticism there (or drunken blindness!). Sadly sold out now, it’s also available as a 15 year old with a very similar label. I’ll be on the lookout for this while I’m browsing auctions. A great wee dram that somehow lets the Balmenach foundation shine despite that sherry bomb influence.

The SMWS was disappointing. A decent whisky, but it didn’t stand up to the others in this line up. Alone it’s still ok, hence the 5/10. It has some redeeming qualities but lacked that weight, fruitiness and confectionary element I’ve come to look for in a Balmenach. Too bourbon-esque for me, which is not what I was looking for at all.

The Whisky Cellar release is the one that surprised me due to the palate being so much better than the nose. I didn’t expect such an experience with this whisky. It was a cheap enough wee auction steal that I took a punt on. It comes across older than 7 years, and does very well with a port mixture. It’s the first Whisky Cellar bottling I’ve grabbed too. Sadly unavailable, but I will look out again, and maybe try more from them. Encouraging.

Cadenheads topped off this quad review with a glorious bang. And I mean glorious. If the Thompson Brothers had been cask strength too, it would’ve been a wonderful side-by-side. While this carried a high proof, it didn’t taste like it whatsoever. Absolutely delicious whisky and I saved the best until last.

While there are two 8/10 whiskies in here, the Cadenhead’s just nudged it for me between them both. Although neither met the requirement to push them beyond and onto a 9, they were fantastic examples and representations of Balmenach, and wonderful liquids.

However, you’ll notice throughout that I wasn’t dwelling too much on meaty notes and, while I enjoyed silky textures and thick, fatty mouthfeel throughout, you’d hardly be convinced it was all down to this concept of what a worm tub may do to our malt. I suppose Pär summed it up quite well in the vPub: worm tubs can add savoury or meaty notes, but it’s so much more to do with everything else and how the condensers work and for what end goal. Like so much in whisky, it is not a case of one size fits all.

Still, a ridiculously enjoyable flight of pours and a delight to review a wee vertical line up. Great examples of what Balmenach can bring and - once again - hats off to the indies.

Here’s to the worm tub!

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. HF

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