Six single casks | Various ABV

What you see is what you get

Dràm Mòr’s story is one that sits well.

What is it that we seek in whisky?  A chase of flavours? A bang for buck experience? Something to unwind after a long week of work? Something to sit down with and marvel at? Something to analyse, trying to understand how the end result is bigger than the sum of its parts? Something to study? A common denominator to share around to help build ties? Something collectible? A life-long practicum in organic chemistry?

All of the above is as good an answer as any, really, as whisky serves all of these purposes and then some. I know I’m pretty much into all these aspects, but at the risk of getting rather corny (no pun intended) here: I find it’s often the human aspect of the whole thing which lifts the experience and enjoyment to new levels. Good whisky is good whisky in any case, but good whisky in the company of good people is a recipe for great times and fond memories.

You see, people are storytellers, and stories are often more important than we give them credit for. We tell stories every day, to our significant others, our co-workers and family, and not least to ourselves. In order for a  story to feel good, it has to fit. Things need to add up, make sense, be genuine… and while all these things are often quite subjective, if we want to get behind something we need to believe the story that comes with it. Whether it be a book, a TV series, politics, or your boss: our inclination to like, enjoy and accept someone or something depends strongly on the messages and stories that come with it. Authenticity is key.

Apply this to whisky. While the cold, macro-economic and scientific truth is this is a multi-billion pound market, essentially creating a toxic and addictive product that can be lethally harmful when consumed in excess, the story that comes with it is far more appealing. Be it the overly romantic images from yesteryear linking whisky with its idyllic surroundings – such as a deer standing by a lovely loch in the Highlands – or the tales of craftsmanship, the purity of its resources and ingredients and the slow an patient process of creating it… or, something more contemporary; giving it a face.

In today’s global village, building personal relationships between brand and customer is of vital importance, especially, but not exclusively, to less established and smaller companies and brands. It’s the very reason why so many brands and distilleries go through great lengths providing stories and photos of the people behind the product on their websites, something you’ll likely not find on the website of a company selling electrical tin openers.

To help build that personal relationship on an almost micro level, the story of the people creating, producing and/or selling the whisky is nearly (yet not entirely) as important as the actual whisky itself. Because we, as a human race, are looking for connections and relationships day in and day out. It helps us understand and accept why the start-up, smaller scale distiller needs to sell their whisky 20 – 30% more expensive than the well-established multinational brand. Talking of which: most, if not all of the big companies are well aware of this need for connection. It’s why they rely on specific advertising campaigns targeting certain demographics, or employ brand ambassadors to fulfil the part of the knowledgeable, likeable and interesting face.

As the smaller companies don’t have this sort of budget, they’d better be nice, knowledgeable and likeable themselves, because they ARE the face and story of their product. And, truth be told, Dràm Mòr‘s Kenny Macdonald ticks all the boxes of a story that sits well: he’s very Scottish in just about every way imaginable: his presence, his accent, his banter, but also his knowledge, passion for what he does and his sincerity. I believe these are key factors in articulating Dràm Mòr’s story. They’re still, by and large, a family run, relatively small scale indie bottler, and while Kenny rightfully points out they don’t have any leeway to release a whisky that might be considered subpar (because when you’re a smaller business, basically you’re only as good as your latest release), the quality of previous releases as well as the people running the business have helped them build credit.

Especially in the business of independently bottling whiskies, most new bottlers can’t bank on a guaranteed, steady availability of extensive, quality stock, so your reputation is pretty much on the line every time you release a new batch. Making sure they are good quality is vitally important. But having a genuine story of integrity and passion behind you equally helps to build relationships, establishing returning customers in the process. Long story short, concluding this pseudo - marketing psychology sermon: if you want to sell anything, whisky in particular, not being an utter weasel is likely to be beneficial.

And while having a good dose of personal sympathy for a certain company and the people behind it – be it Dràm Mòr or Watt Whisky or Single Malts of Scotland or any other – might stand in the way of complete objectivity, acknowledging this sympathy factor is the absolute minimum when we want to share our as honest as possible thoughts on it. So believe me when I say I’m trying my best to be extra scrutinous when trying this latest batch of Dràm Mòr.

That said, I’ve got six whiskies in front of me so, in no particular order, time to tuck in…

Review 1/6

Dalmunach 6yo, 2016-2022, 1st-fill bourbon, 242 bottles, 58.2% ABV
£65

Dalmunach, built on the premises of the demolished Imperial distillery, is Pernod Ricard’s cream of the crop distillery. It was founded in 2015, is very cost and energy sufficient and, as far as official releases go, is also completely unobtainable. The 10 million LPA whisky plant is very much a workhorse, but thanks to various indie bottlers, quite a few releases are available. Despite being young, the few I’ve tried so far have all been rather pleasant.

Nose

A nicely integrated combo of fruity sweetness (melons and ripe pears) and sugary breakfast cereals, are counter-balanced by a soft astringent/sour note which prevents this from becoming sickly sweet. There’s something dense and bready sitting on top of it all. A few drops of water brings out a floral element, adding hints of rosewater.

Palate

Sweet, but also quite hot and peppery at first, which took me by surprise after the gentle, easy-going nose - it’s a six year old youngster verging towards 60% ABV after all. Viscous and oily with clear notes of vanilla. After adding water and given some time it’s ready to show its real colours. An almost dirty sweetness emerges, like a sweet, slightly funky cheese, with a meaty texture before going into a clingy, dough-like cereal led, dry finish.

Score: 6/10 EA

Review 2/6

Benrinnes 12yo, 1st-fill bourbon hogshead, 330 bottles, 53.7% ABV
£75-80

Despite there being some 190 years between them, Benrinnes and Dalmunach have more than a few things in common. Both are scarce in terms of official releases, they’re mainly used for blends, and both are owned by a whisky juggernaut. Known for a more heavy and meaty style of whisky, Benrinnes too is what you might call an atypical Speysider.

Nose

Citrus and orange zest introduces an interesting combo of sweet and sour notes, like lemon sherbet and white grapes. Something like in a dry wine. Initially a bit closed, but give it some time and it turns floral and soapy (in a pleasant way) with a nutty character.

Palate

Grain and bread with a meaty note and texture. First thoughts: subtle and complex, a bit timid and understated. A drop of water does wonders. Now it blossoms – literally. Citrus and floral notes sitting in a signature Benrinnes savoury – meaty touch before going cardboard-like dry in the finish.

Score: 6/10 EA

Review 3/6

Ruadh Maor 10yo, (peated Glenturret), 2012-2022, refill white port hogshead, 308 bottles, 58.7% ABV
£80

Arguably, Glenturret is the comeback kid of the past five years. Going from a rather invisible, slightly dull and uninteresting core range under Edrington ownership to winning the hearts of enthusiasts everywhere under the new Lalique owners. I’ve tried the official 10 year old peated Glenturret from the 2020 Maiden Release and thought it was solid. Let’s see what this indie incarnation brings.

Nose

Lovely mixture of peat and sweet notes, we’re actually quite close to what you might expect from Kilkerran‘s Heavily Peated expressions. Creamy, with a soft fruity touch of apples intertwined with an ashy note which grows stronger over time.

Palate

Ashy and hefty peat, but there’s also a lightness to this. A faint woody note, balanced out by sweeter fruit and cake notes. This comes with a dry, full texture while still allowing room for spirity spice and peppery notes with a clear savoury character.

Score: 7/10 EA

Review 4/6

Macduff 9yo, 2012-2022, refill sherry butt, 752 bottles, 58% ABV
£75-90

Macduff is one of those distilleries that’ll likely get little more than a shrug from even the most seasoned anorak . Most of it goes into the William Lawson’s blend, while the official releases under the name The Deveron are, from my experience, pretty pedestrian. That said, I really enjoyed a 2021 bottling from Dràm Mòr, so let’s see what this puppy brings.

Nose

Buttery, caramel, barley sugar, mixed with ginger and pepper. Strawberries and floral/greenhouse notes. With some water the floral, herbaceous notes open up and it becomes noticeably sweeter with some honey and berries.

Palate

A bit hot and peppery at first. Once it settles those green and herbaceous notes are prominent and again it opens up with some water added: wood and geraniums, candy sweets, roasted coffee and bitter chocolate, sitting on a dry mouthfeel.

Score: 6/10 EA

Review 5/6

Inchmurrin 11yo, 2011-2022, refill bourbon, 225 bottles, 58% ABV
£75

As I’m quite the sucker for the official 12yo Inchmurrin from Loch Lomond, I’m really keen to dig in to this one: cask strength, and from a refill bourbon barrel: on paper it ticks all the boxes to allow the spirit character (coming from the combination of Loch Lomond’s pot stills and straight neck stills) to shine…

Nose

White fruits, floral-candy, and grassy - like fresh cut summer grass. Indeed, that distinct signature character shines – all fresh and crisp with an ever so soft gingery-peppery note in the back.

Palate

Pleasantly fizzy and candy-like arrival. Rhubarb and floral notes, and after a drop of water notes of sweet grapes and orchard fruit emerge.

Score: 7/10 EA

Review 6/6

Secret Orkney 14yo, 2008-2022, refill Chateau D’Yquem Sauternes Cask, 305 bottles, 58% ABV
£93

Another not so secret Orkney – frankly it’s a bit silly I think, but this could prove to be quite interesting, as it’s been put to rest in a French wine cask. And not just any French wine. Chateau D’Yquem is world renowned for its sweet white wines and it’s what you’d call the Macallan of white wines in terms of collectability and price. Old bottles go for tens of thousands on auction sites. I’d love to hear how they got their hands on a cask.

Nose

Rich and busy, creamy-milky chocolate, toffee apples, white stone fruit and grapes with a slightly sour touch. Cold brew coffee and treacle with an earthy note, transforming into a shy heathery element. Somehow, it all fits.

Palate

Earthy, dark coffee notes and now some peppery smoke comes through. Woody/oaky and dry, with all the stone fruit remaining intact as well. After adding water the smoke becomes more prominent and suddenly there’s an olive oil note cutting right in. Again, on paper it shouldn’t work, and yet it does. Wonderfully so, even.

Score: 8/10 EA

The Dregs

Dràm Mòr have again managed to deliver some good to excellent bottles. The youngster of the lot - the Dalmunach set the bar. It’s still very youthful, particularly on the palate, but this whisky is literally dripping with potential: a powerful, potent giant with a soft touch to it.

The Benrinnes was possibly the one that took some getting round to. I felt it to be quite shy at first, especially on the nose it’s almost understated at first, but with some time and a bit of water it changed dramatically into a layered, subtle dram.

Despite not rating it the highest of the lot, I think the Ruadh Maor may have been my favourite of the lot. Despite the hefty peat it’s got an excellent balance, making for a beautiful whisky and there’s an almost playfulness to this which is just very fun and pleasant.

The Macduff is, not unlike the Benrinnes, a whisky that sets you to work, as it demands time and attention, but given its due attention, an interesting and rewarding pour.

The Inchmurrin might well become a people’s favourite, not to say everybody’s darling. Layered yet uncomplicated, easy sipping whisky and above all very, very moreish.

To conclude, the Secret Orkney. What can I say: it ticks every box on my list. It’s got the perfect age to have the best of both spirit and cask influence and it keeps on opening drawer after drawer of flavour. Sometimes a whisky can be very interesting and very good. This is one of those whiskies.

I appreciate this might have been a bit of a marathon read, but releases such as these, alongside what other indie bottlers bring, deserve our due attention.

Not only do they open doors which would otherwise remain closed - bottling whiskies from distilleries with little or no official releases - but they’re also in a position where they can take what we know and expect from some of the more household names in a completely new direction, often with astonishing results.

A Highland Park from a white wine cask? You got it. A heavily peated Glenturret from white port casks? Here you go. A promising youngster from one of the whisky giants? Say no more.

Bottlings like these are many things: fun, surprising, unusual, interesting… and by doing so, help us broaden our perspectives as enthusiasts, questioning what we think we know about some distilleries. So, above all, perhaps the adjective I’d like to use on releases like these, is ‘necessary’.

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EA

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