Six Whiskies from late 2024 | Various ABV

A failed Zoom yields a Dramface Cadenhead’s deep dive

Just before heading to Glasgow back in November, I received an email from my pal Ianis, who works for Dugas, regarding a Cadenhead’s Zoom tasting. Dugas is indeed Cadenhead’s and Springbank’s importer in France, and I regularly order for the shop - and some of it goes straight to my personal cabinet.

The tasting was focused on what is available from Cadenhead’s outside of the UK, which means the Original Collection and the Enigma series, which is a more recent addition to their range.

Indie bottlings can be hard to come by if you don’t live in the UK. Some make it to the far reaches of the world, but this unfortunately isn’t the case with all independent bottlers, which by nature, are almost always small companies run by only a few people - admittedly a bit bigger when we’re speaking about Cadenhead’s, G&M or Signatory - and bottling outturn numbers rarely reach the four-digit scale and, in fact, never if you’re talking about single casks.

Bigger companies like those aforementioned are able to blend a few casks at a time to supply more than their domestic market, and for some of us, that’s the only type of indie bottling you’ll see. Think of examples like Gordon & Macphail’s Discovery range, Signatory’s ubiquitous “Un-chillfiltered” 46% range, Douglas Laing’s too often overlooked Provenance bottlings, and today’s focus, Cadenhead’s Original Collection.

I’m willing to bet that the slowing of sales in the UK will mean that some of the smaller independents will be able - or forced, I’m afraid - to export some of their hard-to-shift stock, because of an increasingly competitive UK market, with more and more bottlers, and fewer people to buy the stuff.

I’ve already started to notice things, like Murray McDavid manning a big stand at Whisky Live Paris with the sole goal of finding a French distributor, or small independents like Brave New Spirits gaining distribution here as well. The silver lining in this is that while this may be a sign of companies struggling, it means that it is likely you’ll soon find more indie bottlings at your local shop.

This is a brilliant thing.

You see, I sincerely believe that even though they can be more expensive than their official counterparts, to me, this is still where the value lies; most of the time. Of course there are distilleries doing the right thing by promoting good whisky at a decent price, like Ardnamurchan, Ardnahoe or Kingsbarns, but if I’m to buy a Laphroaig, you bet it’s going to be called ‘Williamson’ from an indie. By the way, by chance did you notice what the three distilleries I mentioned have in common? Yup, they’re owned by independent bottlers.

I believe that it’s okay to pay a tenner more if you can rest assured that the whisky you’re drinking is free of the dreaded e150 and has not been filtered at temperatures which would be described as “baltic” to someone living in Glasgow. On top of that, it supports a small company most likely run by passionate whisky lovers as opposed to finance Diageo shareholders’ new villa on the French Côte d’azur.

As many of you already know, independent bottlers are the sole providers of naturally presented examples of some distilleries’ output. Think of names like Benrinnes, Linkwood, Ardmore, Auchroisk or Glenrothes. I wouldn’t touch an official bottling of any of these with a stick, yet I hold some (read : Linkwood) in high esteem, solely due to brilliant bottlings by independents.

When looking at Dramface Top 40 distilleries - for which you can still vote or change your mind - I’m pretty sure that if these distilleries had just one, readily available, naturally presented official bottling at 46%, they would rise up in the ranking significantly. But they don’t, so we have to thank indies for letting us try the real deal.

Now let’s not get caught up in a lengthy write up, as I have six independently bottled samples to still taste. All of this was just a way of saying; if you have the occasion and the budget, go and try some indie bottlings. Rest assured that if you haven’t yet, it will greatly improve your knowledge and “experience bandwidth” of whisky.

Review 1/6

Tullibardine 12yo, 2012, Palo Cortado, Non-chill filtered, Natural colour, 46% ABV
~£55

You might wonder why I still have those samples if I was to attend the virtual tasting. Well, as some of you already know, I came back from Glasgow not being able to smell or taste anything, so I decided I wasn’t gonna waste those samples and instead write a big review for you guys, since this is one of the most available releases coming from indies. I had already tried all of the whiskies here at Dugas’ trade show back in September, but only took very succinct notes. Now is the time to properly analyse them.

Nose

Dried orange peels and lemon hard-boiled sweets. Fresh coffee and real vanilla pods. Juicy and tart red apples as well, some of them cooked. Hint of PVA glue and sherry vinegar. Brownie bites loaded with roasted hazelnuts.

Palate

Light mouthfeel. It is oak driven, but Tullibardine isn’t exactly known to be the most characterful of distillates. Quality vanilla, sherry spices - which taste quite European oak-y to me - and those roasted hazelnuts from the nose. 

With water: more dried citrus peels, but it drowns quite quickly.

The Dregs

When I was in Glasgow there was a running joke over the weekend that went like this: if you tasted a whisky that wasn’t really engaging or interesting, you could say “it’s always better than a 3yo Tullibardine”. This distillery doesn’t get a lot of love and, quite brutally, I think there’s a reason why. The core range is one of the most uneventful in the Scotch landscape and even indies tend to have a hard time bettering the experience. It could be, in part, due to a generic, light distillate.

All of this is to say that in my humble opinion, finding a tasty Tullibardine is not that easy a task. That’s why I applaud Cadenhead’s for this release. It is bottled at the right strength, and the Palo Cortado cask injects just enough complexity to make it interesting. This isn’t “whisky of the year” material, but definitely a good value, naturally presented sherried sipper. As such, it earns a well deserved 6/10 from yours truly.

Score: 6/10

Review 2/6

Ben Nevis 11yo, 2012, ex-bourbon, NCF, NC, 46% ABV
~£65

Nose

Melted cheese on potatoes. Grilled meat trimmings. The classic Ben Nevis putty and Play-Doh. I get hints of soft white fleshed fruits hidden behind the more funky notes. Maybe lychee ? Water turns it more coastal, mineral, almost like an über-taut chenin from the Loire valley, without the usually associated fruit notes.

Palate

Fresh and mineral again, on wet concrete. It’s quite austere, but it’s Ben Nevis alright. Adding water, I get white pepper, more concrete dust, and thick lemon peels.

The Dregs

This is a challenging malt, even for a Ben Nevis. It is bare naked and won’t apologise for it. Unsexy malt if there ever was one, and honestly not top notch BN, but some will love it. As for me, I don’t hate it, but when craving this style of BN, I think it’s not up to snuff with what this distillery can offer and I’d rather drink my Signatory bottling that I previously reviewed.

Score: 5/10

Review 3/6

Ardmore 11yo, 2012, Ruby Port, NCF, NC, 46% ABV
~£55

Nose

Peat is definitely there, but in the 20ppm range. Earth, potting soil and burning leaves, along with cooked cherries and peaches. Fermenting strawberries. Fresh grasses (so specific) and a floral, heather-like note. Smoke is thick and dark, and it gets peatier with time. 

Water: directs it back towards sweet fruits, dialing down the peat by 20%-ish, and bringing dark chocolate to the forefront.

Palate

Round and chewy. Peaty first and foremost, earthy and rich, enveloped by a dark kind of sweetness: figs, chocolate, caramel. 

With water: again a bit sweeter, echoing the nose, but not that different.

The Dregs

This is a beautifully balanced example of Ardmore, showcasing the characterful distillate alongside some quite active but quality casks. I’m not usually a port maturation fan, especially ruby port, but I must concede that this is very well made. In fact, the port here feels a bit more like a mix of oloroso and PX sherry. I like how you can have it neat and enjoy the savoury peatiness, or add 2 or 3 drops of water and dial up the sweetness.

At £55, I’d happily buy a bottle. It’s a moody dram for sure, but I’m in the right mood these days.

Score: 7/10

Review 4/6

Girvan 33yo, 1991, ex-bourbon, NCF, NC, 46% ABV
~£130

Nose

Coconut flakes, oak shavings, a light hint of varnish. grainwhiskynose.exe. Plain ice cream, white chocolate and caramel sauce. Sponge cake with cinnamon icing. Water doesn’t really change anything.

Palate

Fresh, lightly sweet, on cake and pastries, with a lemony freshness that balances it well. Dried grasses on the finish. Water again doesn’t do much, maybe makes it a tad dryer, and lets a peppery heat come through.

The Dregs

This is quite simple grain whisky. It’s got nothing wrong with it, in fact it is quite pleasant, but it won’t blow your mind. It’s just a simple, slightly sweet sipper.

Score: 6/10

Review 5/6

Enigma 27yo, 1997, blended malt scotch whisky, ex-bourbon hogsheads maturation, NCF, NC, 51.8% ABV
~£175

Nose

Old, “venerable” apples, aged calvados, worn out leather book cover. Craft cider. All things apples really, skins included. Hint of menthol. Puff pastry, Damson tart. 

With water: more pastry, melted butter. Light, floral honey on warm toast.

Palate

Remarkably balanced, still with those apples. Some oak bitterness on the finish, but just a touch. It’s fresh and “orchardy”, but still shows some age. Water: more of the same, but more roundness and texture. Gets woodier as well.

The Dregs

This profile certainly tracks with the Glenfiddich hypothesis. It is a good, well aged, distillate-driven malt, yet I think it lacks the complexity to take it to the top. I’d happily drink another dram, but I probably won’t pay the asking price for it.

Score: 6/10

Review 6/6

Enigma 15yo, 2008, Islay single malt scotch whisky, ex-bourbon hogsheads maturation, NCF, NC, 54.8% ABV
~£110

As mentioned before, I tried this at the Cadenhead’s stand during Dugas’ trade show in Paris in September. I of course asked if they knew what distillery produced this teenage peater and they said that they weren’t sure but that it could well be Lagavulin, and added a cheeky wink. £110 for a 15yo malt is pricey, but if it’s indeed Laga it seems like a pretty good deal compared to the official 12yo. It only has to taste good.

Nose

Oily, grassy smoke up front. Iodine and rotting algae. Campfire on the beach. Grapefruit skin oils and a hint of tart green apple. Melting tar in the sun from 20 metres away. Loads of algae, ashes and seawater. 

With water: weirdly, it closes itself quite dramatically, and everything is toned down.

Palate

Oily, rich, thick smoke and juicy smoked pears. Underlying salinity. Sweet coastal smoke. This is delicious, and quite long as well. 

With water: turns more mineral and saline, but as said above, the nose vanishes completely.

The Dregs

Though it really does not like water, this is the best of the bunch for me. It’s intense, grippy, and a prime example of what Lagavulin should always be: a pure Ileach. I struggled to settle on a score, but I think this does deserve to climb up to an 8/10.

Score: 8/10

Let’s listen to a rather unknown band this time around : Metric. I quite like the energy in their song Monster Hospital; helps me wake up in the morning.

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. AF

Other opinions on this:

Whiskybase (Tulli, Ben Nevis, Ardmore, Girvan, Enigma 27yo, Enigma 15yo)

Words Of Whisky (Tulli, Ben Nevis & Ardmore)

Reddit

Graham Henderson (YT)

Official presentation by Cameron & Jenna (YT)

Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.