Inchgower 20yo
Edition Spirits 1998 | 53.4% ABV
Not shopping local
There was a local whisky shop nearby where I used to live, and because of its vicinity, I visited fairly often, and got to know the shop owner fairly well, but I didn’t purchase from them often, their prices are generally more expensive. The owner was aware of this too, and he wasn’t shy to address it. The shop was located at ground floor level with a lot of foot traffic, so the cost of the rent has to be covered and, as a business, he has no option but to pass it to the customers.
He was also honest with me in saying that his best selling bottles are entry level bottles like the Glenlivet 12yo, slightly premium bottles like the Macallan 12yo Sherry Oak, or even sometimes the more eccentric Laphroaig 10yo or Ardbeg 10yo. These were all marked up by generally 15% compared to other shops in town.
It also surprised him that Springbanks fly off the shelf even when he priced them way above what others would offer. He priced the Springbank 15 at £280 for example, while the typical going rate would maybe be around £200 here, and they still sell. Roy at Aqvavitae often says “even if you can charge something, doesn’t mean you should”, I’m on board with that sentiment, but here’s a man running a business doing what he has to do, and I don’t feel like I’m in the position to criticise or intervene.
The owner being an avid whisky drinker himself, his shop was also stocked up with a limited selection of indies and special releases, and these were often offered at much more affordable prices, intended to keep enthusiasts like myself interested and returning. He would also have an array of bottles open on the counter, which he would pour for anyone interested, sometimes these bottles weren’t even available for sale, he just wanted to share, such was his eagerness to share the joys of whisky. For this reason, I could separate him as the business owner and the whisky drinker.
I used a lot of past tense above, because this shop no longer exists. An independent whisky specialist shop located on a busy street charging high prices was never a model that I feel could work. Maybe it could work if they sold wine and other affordable spirits too, there is another one which does just that fairly closeby, but that is a chain operated by a bigger corporation, maybe that makes a difference, I don’t know, I’m not business savvy enough to make such a call.
Around a month before the closure of the shop, I received a text message from the owner telling me of the eventual fate of the shop, so I paid him a visit. Like always, we had a good chat about all things whisky, how the shop has evolved over the years, including the past staff, the good ones, the not so good ones, and the ones in between. We also talked about the bottles that I've bought from his shop, how some were gems, and some were duds, not to mention the bottles that were recommended by him that I bought elsewhere because he didn’t have one to offer.
Inevitably our conversation led to his future. The shop was not his only business venture, but he was adamant that this would not be the end of his whisky retail career, such was his passion for the spirit.
As his shop was closing soon, he was obviously also trying to clear out his stock, so all of his whiskies are on a discount, but as another business decision that baffles me, he’s slapping a 10% discount on everything, remember how I said his whiskies are generally marked up by around 15%, that means the prices are still more expensive than market prices. Also, because it’s a clearance sale, the stock is limited, and so is my interest. I didn’t end up getting anything from him, and a few weeks later the shop was no longer in operation..
Review
Inchgower 20yo, Edition Spirits, 1998 vintage, refill hogshead HL15257, 273 bottles, 53.4% ABV
£120 paid locally
Circling back to the bottles I bought from him, it’s true that his collection of unique bottles were limited, but once in a while he would be able to offer interesting bottles at very competitive prices, the Inchgower from today’s review is among the best value I’ve extracted from him.
I don’t remember why I walked into the shop on that particular day, whenever I was around the area and had a few minutes I tended to pay him a visit and mooch a few mini drams from him, but on that day, the moment he saw me through the glass door, he waved me inside and poured me a drop of this 20 year old Speysider. I’d never heard of this distillery before, I mistakenly identified it as Invergordon at first sight, and then wrongly thought it must have have been some iteration of Loch Lomond like Inchmurrin or Inchfad, but he reassured me that it is a distillery, and of course with a few taps on my phone, I could confirm.
And the liquid in the Glencairn was interesting, more on that in review proper, but for whatever reason, I was reluctant, so he took out a sample bottle and poured 2cl for me to take home. As I drank the sample later that evening, I made up my mind, I was going back the next day to secure a full bottle.
Nose
Briny coastal attack on the nose, a bit mineralic, tiny bit of chlorine from the swimming pool, swimsuits are coming out after the nose… even some laundry cubes, a slightly off nose.
Palate
Sandpit texture (learnt a new tasting note from a fellow Dramfacer on the podcast), salty arrival, salted vanilla, salted lemons, apples, the development brings some black pepper, and turns quite mouth watering. Very long finish with that sandpit thing again, slightly lactic in the end.
The Dregs
Very interesting whisky, a weird - and off putting - nose to begin with, but once I get past that and onto the palate, the whisky definitely doesn’t disappoint when considering its 20 year age statement. An intense style of whisky, my rookie nose palate can’t put a finger on what is delivering that intensity, is it the salty coastal element? Is it the sandpit texture? Is it simply the age? Or maybe even a combination of all of those things? I don’t know, but it’s intense.
As this review was being written, I received a text message from the shop owner in the story:
“I’m opening a whisky shop again!”
When?
“Late July hopefully”
Where?
“Exact same location!”
Did he learn his lesson? Are prices going to remain inflated? Does he have a new business plan? Did rent go down? Or is it that he simply won’t give up? I’ll visit him when he has settled down again and see if I can get any answers to those questions. Maybe there will be a sequel to this, but only if I find something there at a reasonable price, which I guess is going to be a big “if”.
P.S. Something about the photos included in this review, since I found this whisky very coastal, I couldn’t help but bring your attention to the coastal nature of my home. The city I call home consists of a main island and a peninsula, as well as multiple outlying islands. In the past, to get to and from the island and the peninsula, or as we say cross the harbour, required a trip on a ferry. Even though three vehicular cross harbour tunnels exist today, ferry services are still available, so I’d like to take you on a visit to one of the operating ferry stations nearby, hopefully you can appreciate the history and culture they still represent.
Score: 6/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. MMc