Glencadam Reserva De Porto Tawny
Tawny Port Cask Finish | 46% ABV
A Jolly Old Time. Emphasis on the Jolly.
Christmas Day this year was different for us. We woke up at a reasonable time, Mini Crystal included. We did the Santa. We did the clean up and then we…sat. No rush to get to family. No frayed nerves because the car was full to bursting. No frantic checking of weather. Just a blank day to enjoy the spirit of the festive season. Then a non-traditional dinner, oodles of pudding, whisky out the kazoo and then off to bed at silly o’clock because on Boxing Day we were doing more of the same. Magic.
We did miss our family though. The Crystal side have always done the big day with an edge of frenzy and the joy for me was always travelling to Mum’s knowing it would be a day of laughs and over-eating. It was ok though because now that we live on an Island, our trips to see family are longer, with us bunking at respective parents and as as result the time that we spend together is a lot more intimate. A lot more purposeful. A lot more special. We find ourselves talking more together, rather than a quick blether or shooting the breeze. Our trip this year would be extra wonderful: travelling through the expanse of geological beauty that fills every window of the car as we weave our way to the lowlands is always worth it. But a storm was brewing and hitting the mainland the very day we were due to travel - sure enough carnage ensued.
Not to worry, we just moved our trip by a day. The following day, although wet, was perfectly safe and sound for travelling - barely a whisper of wind and even the threat of sunshine. But after a big storm comes the clean-up and, as we hit Invergarry, the road in both directions to Fort Augustus and to Spean Bridge, was closed due to fallen trees. The only route, the poor sod tasked with breaking the news gently delivered, is back the way we came to Invermoriston and then along the banks of Loch Ness to Inverness, then down the A9…which was also suffering blockages. Long story short it was 8 hours in a car with two red-haired, red-tempered ladies of distinction. I was glad to get to Mum’s.
Our holiday was great - everyone was super-charged to be together and we spent the days walking, chatting, hair-cutting and indulging. Whilst in Perth for said wig shaping, I nipped over to where Malts and Spirits Co used to be on George Street but it was gone. Thankfully Steve had just relocated to a bigger premises on the nearby St. John Street - a much needed expansion and a fantastic setup now in the bigger shop. There’s room for a tasting zone, enabling experiences and events to take place in-shop. Bigger racks with all the enthusiast whisky you can shake a stick at, alphabetised and coded to make things easier.
I chatted with Steve for a while about how he’s doing as an independent shoppe, how he feels the market is and what he thinks 2024 will bring for his business. He very much feels the same way Fletcher feels, albeit seeing a sustained level of traffic and sales and a positive outlook as a result, which is just great. Long live the independent shops. After a good catch-up I waggled my fingers at a few bottles, discussing them with Steve as I did so - Finn Thompson’s latest out-turn with a Dailuaine catching my eye, as well as a Glen Garioch and even the Glasgow in the running - all good whiskies Steve said, and noted his affinity for what Finn is bottling. Over to the Benromachs, maybe a Glasgow core range, or even Glen Moray. But it was the Glencadams that swayed me. I’ve spent a bit of time with their 10 year old and I wasn’t blown away, to be totally honest. I’ve also taken a bit of time with some samples of the PX Sherry Cask Finish, again good but not something I felt I had to buy myself. Which begs the question why I plopped for the Tawny Port Cask Finish Glencadam?
Review
Tawny Port Cask Finish, 46% ABV
£48 widely available - bought at Malts and Spirits Co - Perth
Three reasons. The first is I’ve had a few Tawny Port casked whiskies which I’ve adored, especially the Glen Garioch Cadenhead’s Warehouse Tasting bottling, which was just superb. Port seems to be a good resonant finish for me, although I do need to try a lot more to say it with any certainty. The second reason is I feel like I’m playing it safe too much recently, going for things that are close to what I’ve been buying, either in distillery or cask. It’s getting a bit safe, and given I’ve not really gravitated to Glencadam, it made sense to try it out. The last reason is because the Finn Thompson bottlings and some of the other options, were all £80+.
Much the same as most options these days, from Indies anyway, but only the day previously had I dropped by the Whisky Auctioneer to collect 3 bottles that I won in the November auction. Knowing Mrs Crystal was just around the corner, and that appearing with another bottle of whisky would cause lips to curl, I reasoned that a £48 bottle of whisky would result in a half headlock, rather than a full one. £48 is a good price if the whisky is great, and Steve certainly thought it was great. Good enough for me - commence the head squeeze.
Getting back to Mum’s, we packed up quickly as the snow began to fall with big fat flaked gusto - we were due to decamp to my in-laws for the second phase of Christmas - they live all but 3 minutes along the road. By the time we got ourselves in the car and away from Mum’s we had lost the battle before a shot was fired - no traction to be found in the hilly village. We tried going the long way around but again no dice - back to Mum’s it was until things settled down, which they eventually did and we made our way delicately, nervously to our final destination. I had the Glencadam open within 10 minutes of stepping through the door: it was a sketchy wee journey.
Nose
Big strawberry jam. Eton mess. Wee wood note. Peppery cranberry. Bit of hairspray. Lots of pudding notes - bananas even, but mostly brandy soaked christmas pudding - raisins, cherries, apples, dark sugars, candied peel.
Palate
Chili jam. Winey. Rubbery sweet. Cedars. Wine gums. It’s proper festive this - almost spiced. Sharp mixes with sweet mixes with salt - Ralfy would be proud. It’s jam in a cup. I’m loving the mix of sweets and sharps. I’m loving the perfection to which it’s slotting nicely with the gammon joint baked in apple juice, Christmas Cake and cheese board and all the rest. It’s got a nice flavour stage of honeys, jams, spices, juicy raisins and even the little pop of heat lends a bit of chili-feels into the mix.
The Dregs
This is dead good. Maybe it’s the festive spirit and the flashing lights, but I can’t help but reach for this lovely wee dram right now. It’s cloudy - even checking the websites of various places shows a cloudy whisky, which is cool. I wonder why. I thought it might be the scotch bloom but after warming up it was still cloudy, an indication if nothing else that it’s not been tampered with. What a glorious colour too - rosey red.
I could wax on about this whisky and miff those unwilling to sit through the screed, but I’ll keep it remorsefully short. £48 for this 46% non chill-filtered, natural colour whisky with some wonderful seasonal vibes is exactly what I wanted - a departure from my norm and a whisky that has left me happy to have bought it, which is more than I can say for the auction bottles…but that’s to come. I’m glad I picked this up over the other options, spending half of what I might have. Steve made the decision easier with his vast knowledge and wide selection - he’s happy to take the time with you to make sure you leave his shop energised and excited for what you’ve purchased. I couldn’t ask for anything more.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DC