20yo Official release vs two independents | Various ABV

Brand Loyalty; a route to disappointment?

Back before Facebook was demoted to being the favoured virtual hangout for Boomers and Gen X-ers it is today, I was eager to follow each and every dedicated whisky brand, distillery or whisky-themed group on there.

It tended to be a fun and interesting way of engaging with other enthusiasts and it helped to follow all that was happening within a distillery. But it was, and is, very often a gathering of people determined on spending all but their last disposable penny on building a collection dedicated completely to that one, particular distillery.

It's something I can only admire and respect; a level of dedication I just don’t see myself capable of. The sheer joy some people find in collecting things, be it stamps, comic books, action figures, baseball cards; it never happened for me. Hence why I probably never caught that bug when it comes to whisky either. 

Now of course I understand that, specifically in the case of a luxury item such as whisky, collecting works on different levels. There are those who collect and strive for complete coverage with the sole purpose of building a retirement fund for themselves. Banking on a - if not complete, then at least exhaustive -  collection of brand X/distillery Y/ series Z… will pay out in the long run. This is assuming that what you’re collecting is deemed collectable of course. There are also those who collect for the sheer joy and pleasure of the thing and then there are people who are hardcore fans of a specific distillery, or brand, who just dedicate a significant amount of time and money hunting down everything they can find. Obviously, these are not separate things and collectors can be (and likely are) a little ‘all of the above’.

Another reason why I don’t consider myself a collector in the strict sense of the word, is because, as Aqvavitae would say, I too am ‘whisky promiscuous’. With literally hundreds of thousands of expressions and releases from hundreds, if not thousands of distilleries out there, being laser-focussed on just one, is literally unfathomable to me. When you’re all about chasing flavour, it almost seems a crime to narrow it down to one particular brand. Even with the versatility many distilleries display today, there’s too much interesting stuff happening literally all over Whiskytown to wilfully keep things restricted.

If anything, brand loyalty is seldom rewarded. The collector or investor might beg to differ, but when you’re collecting and buying whisky with the intention of opening them, sooner or later it’s almost inevitable you’ll be disappointed: bottles becoming too pricey, or they stop delivering in terms of flavour and quality. The best examples for me are Laphroaig 10yo and Clynelish 14yo. Two expressions that were once permashelf bottles around here, but have lost quite a bit of their former grandeur to me.

That said, there are also those distilleries deeply rooted into our whisky loving heart and soul. Whiskies and distilleries we have a bit of a soft spot for. Whiskies that just ‘click’ with what we like, or those who were responsible for our epiphany moments, and those which are simply rock solid, reliable and consistent, seeming incapable of disappointment.

To me, Ardmore is one of those ‘soft spot’ distilleries. Despite the lack of anything even resembling a convincing core range, Ardmore, in many (mostly) independent incarnations and shapes, very regularly finds its way into my cabinet. It’s genuinely overlooked still (and therefore, luckily usually affordable as a consequence) and has proven itself to be quite versatile. In its most potent and bold peated form, I find Ardmore is capable of giving some of the best Islay whiskies out there a run for their money, and then some. In a milder incarnation, it can be a very decent allrounder, and when presented as unpeated Ardlair, it’s often delivering some very layered, mineral, fruity whisky goodness.

As it happens, I currently have three bottles of Ardmore sitting in my cabinet: an official release of the 20yo, and two indies of 10 and 12 years of age. I‘ve been brooding on the idea to put them head to head to head for a while now, but then recently both Hamish and  Ramsay came up with similar ideas and have delivered some excellent write ups. 

So I held back a bit until I felt enough time had passed to throw some more Ardmore at you. More than that, I’ve sent a sample pack south of the border to Ainsley so he can chip in and share his two cents.

Review 1/6 - Earie

Ardmore 20yo, Official bottling, 1996 - 2017, 1st fill bourbon and ex-Islay casks, 49.3% ABV
£98 paid, still some occasional availability

Some 10 months ago, I shared with you the story on how I became acquainted with the Arran 14. It was on that same store visit that I picked up this official 20 year old Ardmore. Official releases from Ardmore are, there’s no other way of saying it, a mess. Not the whisky itself, fortunately,  but the entire wishy-washy approach to it.

Owned by Beam Suntory, this five million-plus litre distillery is catering first and foremost to the Teacher’s brand, and it seems that as a consequence, little to no attention is being given to official releases. There’s the entry level supermarket expression ‘Legacy’, the hard to find ‘traditional cask’ expression and the occasionally available 12yo Portwood. On rare occasions, other official releases see the light of day, such as this 20yo, released in 2017. Not much there in terms of TLC from Beam Suntory. Still, let’s see what’s what.

Nose

Citrus notes (orange) with some vanilla and honey – quite classic bourbon cask notes, mixed in with mild peat and savoury notes. Quite oily and waxy as well – something I tend to pick up in Ardmore whisky. Nice balance, and pleasant to nose, but don’t let the age statement fool you; the cask influence is quite restrained and as a result this comes across significantly younger and noses like something closer to a 14yo. Not a point of criticism, merely an observation. A drop of water accentuates the fruit with notes of figs, honey sweetness and a soft, earthy savoury – peat note.

Palate

The peat and smoke are more obvious, but by no means on Ardbeg or Longrow level. The citrus notes are getting some company from more vegetal notes, making for a dry mouthfeel leaning towards dry oak. It opens up nicely after some water, as I feel it balances things out rather nicely: the peaty, vegetal and savoury flavours are more ‘in tune’ with the citrus and vanilla notes, and this manifests itself further in a long, woody, gently peaty finish.

The Dregs

That youthfulness suggested on the nose shines through on the palate. This noses and tastes like a 14-15 yo refill bourbon cask matured whisky more than anything. That said, it’s a pleasant enough, enjoyable whisky that’s perhaps, all things considered, also a bit straightforward. You’d expect, well, ‘more’ of all the different parts coming together. Good whisky. Nothing less, but definitely nothing more either.

Score: 6/10 EA

Review 2/6 - Ainsley

Ardmore 20yo, Official bottling, 1996 - 2017, 1st fill bourbon and ex-Islay casks, 49.3% ABV
£98 paid, still some occasional availability

Massive thanks to Earie for the generous sample pack he sent me. I sent him a few things as well, so be prepared for a series of continental European review duos in the weeks and months ahead. Exciting stuff. 

I’ve had a limited experience with Ardmore, pretty much only tasting a few during various whisky shows, so I was eager to try this little trio that Earie put together. Let’s start with the official one.

Nose

Not massively peaty, but definitely peaty. Noses like 15-20ppm or something like that, which I guess is in line with reported Ardmore peat levels. Smoked butter (had mashed potatoes made with hay-smoked butter the other day, a must-try!), creamy malt and caramelised barley sugars. As for fruits, there’s a hint of poached pears, but it’s immediately back to buttery croissants, apple turnovers and sweetened porridge.

With water; massive change. Way more citrusy and herbal. Bergamot peels and homemade limoncello (Hi Serge). The earthy peat from the beginning morphs into a fresh smoke from an extinguished campfire. I get hints of celery and turnips, and I mean that in a good way, along with white peaches and vanilla cream.

Palate

Earthy peat arrival, with a medium body. Quite hot for its ABV. The second sip reveals its buttery side from the nose, but apart from the slightly salty finish, it’s quite shy. 

Water : Creamier, and a bit less peaty. I honestly don’t get much, I don’t know if it’s me or the whisky. It is pleasant, but not as interesting as the nose.

The Dregs

This is good whisky, but I expected more. It really needs water to open up, and even then, the palate is lacking in complexity in my opinion. I had this between a 5 and a 6, but since the nose is actually quite good, I’m willing to score this 6/10. It’s never going up to a 7 though.

Score: 6/10 AF

Review 3/6 - Earie

Ardmore 10yo, Double V, 2012 - 2022, matured in an ex-Laphroaig cask 803805, 237 bottles, 57.7% ABV
£73 paid, still some availability in Belgium

Double V (named after the shared first letter from the surnames of the two people behind this indie bottler) is one of the rising stars amongst Belgian indie bottlers. I think this is my 3d or 4th bottle from them and the previous bottles have all been winners.

This is perhaps partly due to the fact that they’ve stepped into the game at exactly the right time – 10 – 15 years ago, which meant they were still able to get their hands on some pretty decent maturing stuff and new make spirit cask-fills at not extortionate prices.

Nose

Light and fruity with oranges, stone fruit and vanilla and honey sweetness. A lightness which is almost immediately countered by heavy peat notes. Thick, dense and solvent-glue like peat (which may sound weird but actually works quite well here), with hints of iodine and ashy notes but little to no smoke.

With added water things turn more fruit driven and the peat becomes sweeter as well. Off to a promising start.

Palate

The ABV shows, but not overwhelmingly so. The ‘sting’ is there, but all in all barely worth its name, translating in a dry, mild peppery arrival. Again, that combo of outspoken ashy and medicinal peat notes, pushing back the citrus and  the sweetness from vanilla and honey a bit.

After adding water things immediately ‘level up’: it’s oilier, fruitier, sweeter (with more sweet peat in the mix too), before going into an ashy, and (dare I say, finally) smoky finish.

The Dregs

A textbook example of a peated whisky matured in an refill bourbon cask (Ok, an ex - Islay cask, but unmistakably a bourbon cask). It brings exactly what you’d expect; still quite spirit driven with minor wood influences, making for a heavy hitting peaty beast. In my book this is  absolutely enjoyable, very palatable yet perhaps slightly unsurprising.

Score: 6/10 EA

Review 4/6 - Ainsley

Ardmore 10yo, Double V, 2012 - 2022, matured in an ex-Laphroaig cask 803805, 237 bottles, 57.7% ABV
£73 paid, still some availability in Belgium

Okay, what the hell is going on with Ardmore in Laphroaig casks? I feel like I see at least twice as much of those than Ardmore in just plain first-fill/refill bourbon. Beam Suntory; why not mature Ardmore in ex-Ardmore casks and Laphroaig in ex-Laphroaig casks?

I say that before having tasted it though, as any proper grumpy French whisky geek would do. Let’s actually see if they’re onto something.

Nose

Much, much peatier than the previous one. Actually, let me rephrase that : much Laphroaig-ier than the previous one. Herbal medicinal, earthy peat, with smoked thyme and rosemary. There’s also a pronounced rubbery/petrole-y side. Massive bags of wood shavings, and dusty, earthy, dry malt. A hint of green wood. 

Water : Remaining very austere, mineral. It doesn’t change much but it is slightly more balanced.

Palate

Medicinal, intensely peaty, then a hint of hot butter, then back to a massive medicinal, peaty finish. It just tastes like Laphroaig honestly. A good Laphroaig, but Laphroaig. I manage to find hints of red fruits buried in a mountain of smouldering peat. 

Water : Slightly fruitier, with tinned pineapple, pears, smoked apples. It also becomes ashy. Very ashy in fact.

The Dregs

Ardmore 0 - 1 Laphroaig.

What I feared revealed to be true, at least that’s what I think. There’s this weird rubbery thing on the nose which may be from the peat, and might be what Earie refers to as a “solvent, glue-like peat”, but to be perfectly frank, this was the only sample that was in a plastic bottle, and I fear the whisky was somewhat slightly tainted. Not sure about that, as Earie seems to like it… It still is not a bad whisky, don’t get me wrong, but I feel like Ardmore is buried six feet underground and Laphroaig is the mortician.

Score: 5/10 AF

Review 5/6 - Earie

Ardmore 12yo, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 2011 - 2023, refill oloroso butt 800535, 635 bottles, bottled for The Nectar, 59.5% ABV
£69 paid, Benelux availability

Signatory is probably the first ever indie bottler that crossed my path. I’m pretty sure it’s also the bottler that’s made the most appearances in my cabinet over the years. Availability and accessibility play a big part in this, obviously, but there’s also the matter of quality and value they have to offer. One, possibly two accidental duds left aside, I’ve never regretted anything Signatory I bought. They were always decent at the very least, and some bottles have been absolutely stellar. Amongst those wonderful ones was, indeed, an Ardmore from some 7 years ago –  it was the very bottle that made me develop a soft spot for this distillery in fact. So when I found  this one sitting on the shelf at one of my go-to stores, it really was a bit of a no brainer.

Nose

Dark roast coffee, and lots and lots of it. Cola cubes, treacle, toffee and dark, earthy peat. As with the Double V, I’m picking up little to no smoke. What I do get, is lots of oily notes, liquorice and rhubarb, oddly. With some added water even more roasted notes of coffee and barley and salty, salty liquorice.

Palate

Very peaty – this one doesn’t’ muck about. Salty notes, and, weirdly, raspberry alongside liquorice and cola cubes again (accentuated further after adding some water). Roasted coffee and peppery notes from the high ABV. Salted and caramelised butter notes make for a full on, viscous, dense mouthfeel which turns drier towards the end as it dives into a peppery, cherry driven, coating finish.

The Dregs

Bold, big and loud, this really is an ‘in your face’ whisky. While I really, really love this, I can’t but feel it would merit an 8/10 were it not for the fact that those loud, boasting, bold notes are all pushed to the front and delivered at the same time, almost fighting for attention. With a bit more ‘depth’ or layers this would be out of this world, I’m sure.  Please consider this mere nitpicking on my behalf, but the feeling that this just falls short of being something utterly brilliant nags at me a bit.

Score: 7/10 EA

Review 6/6 - Ainsley

Ardmore 12yo, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 2011 - 2023, refill oloroso butt 800535, 635 bottles, bottled for The Nectar, 59.5% ABV
£69 paid, Benelux availability

Not much to say about this one, only that I agree with Earie on the fact that Signatory rarely produces duds. Let’s dive in and see how Ardmore fares in a sherry cask.

Nose

Dark chocolate (70-ish %). The peat is still quite noticeable but tamed a little bit, letting other aromas take the stage. There’s honey glazed bacon, roasted pecans and sweet popcorn. Also some hazelnut spread and speculoos based glazing. A hint of an umami side, with fish sauce. All of this is draped in a thick and warm campfire smoke. 

Water: Sweeter and creamier. Still this lovely meaty element : bacon, or even grilled guanciale. The umami / savoury side is a bit more pronounced, with black pepper, salts. Roasted coffee beans. Lovely nose.

Palate

Sweet, yet not too much, thick, rich, syrupy, evoking dark things. Cooked and smoked red fruits like cherries. This would go down very well in the winter months. 

With water : Smoked dried herbs emerge, but they’re drenched in rich mountain honey and melted brown sugar. The finish lasts quite a while, on a rich, sweet, thick smoke.

The Dregs

That’s a lovely, rich whisky. My notes may lead you to think it’s a sherry bomb, and well, it’s close to being one, but the spirit still manages to sing. Still, this is a quite active refill butt, but a very high quality cask, so no problem with me.

The Final Dregs - Earie

I feel I need to add  that some of my notes were written down during my recent  period of whisky fatigue and while I feel I’ve bounced back now and have since revisited these three; adjusting some notes and adding a few others, it’s inevitable that some of those earlier planted seeds are stuck and stubbornly refuse to leave. I’m therefore really glad that I put these in a sample pack and sent them to Ainsley for further investigation and a second opinion. Cheers, monsieur Fife!

The Final Dregs - Ainsley

Again, an avalanche of thanks to Earie for sharing some of his whiskies with me. I wasn’t really familiar with the Ardmore spirit, and even after this tasting, I can’t say I understand it that much better.

The 20yo OB leaves me wanting a bit, the Double V is a peat bomb due to the Laphroaig cask, and while the Signatory is delicious, it isn’t the Ardmore that is going to reveal what Ardmore is to me. It only reveals that Ardmore tastes bloody good in a sherry butt though, I can tell you that.

I’ll try to grab a 10-15yo refill bourbon the first chance I get, to really dissect the distillate, because it is very much a distillery I’d like to get familiar with. In the meantime, this was quite fun, and I look forward to reading your opinions on Ardmore in the comments.

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EA / AF

Other opinions on these:

Whiskyfun (20yo)
Whiskybase (20yo)

Whiskybase (Double V)

Whiskybase (Signatory Vintage)

Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.