Independent Bottling | 5 whiskies

Taste The Feeling

It’s hard to believe that’s January done and dusted in the blink of an eye, or an incoming storm? Promptly dropping into February, the month that is in my book, the most vicious and unforgiving of months in Scotland and no, I’m not just talking about the latest Ardbeg Committee bottling. Those bitter winds blow away the festive cobwebs and release the shackles from the whisky industry, which steps into the daylight, freed from the vegan and no alcohol themes of January.

While I don’t subscribe to such fashionable things (or fashion in general, according to friends, but hey, I don’t wear pink trousers), it’s easy to write off the beginning of each year without too much thought. Thankfully, Watt Whisky revealed their January outturn to buck this trend, which is hitting the shelves in February. You’ll come to appreciate that this is the way things are done in Campbeltown and the whisky always gets through in the end.

Watt Whisky is possibly a new entity to some of you reading this article. I’d recommend checking out the About section and also their Philosophy for all the gen on what they aim to achieve. One of Scotland’s newest independent bottlers, they are a family firm based in Campbeltown armed with the sizeable industry knowhow of Kate and Mark Watt at the helm. When their passion project was first revealed, it was enthusiastically received and supported by a crowdfunding drive. I was happy to contribute, which seems a long time ago, but that’s probably the pandemic blues clouding my memory.

While we seem to have a huge influx of independent bottlers or armchair bottlers as they were once called by Gordon & MacPhail, there are many subsections and sizes at play. Different methodologies and preferences. In my almost worthless opinion, there are a handful that are prospering due to their knowledge and skillset to find good casks (at a reasonable price), then bottling at the right time. There’s no Dummies Guidebook or ruleset beyond what the Scotch Whisky Association outline. You have to make your own way through a minefield of pitfalls and overpriced casks, rolling with the punches and picking yourself up when things don’t turn out as expected. You’re only as good as your last bottling and fortunately Watt Whisky have been outperforming some of their peers.

The single cask Glen Elgin 14yo was my single cask pick of 2021, right up there with the Springbank 10 in terms of overall value and the experience was sublime. And no, I don’t know where you can purchase a bottle of the Glen Elgin, or the Springbank come to think of it.

Here's hoping for more gems and trips across Scotland and beyond during 2022. For their January outturn, we have a rum from Venezuela, a whisky from Israel and some recognisable Scottish distilleries including a grain from North British. Quite the mix, hopefully offering something for everyone apart from the peat fanatics, who let’s be honest, have more than enough to be contending themselves with.

I’ve had a few rums in my time however I can honestly say that C.A.D.C. SA is a new one on me. Sounding like it should be an unscrupulous baddie organisation in the 1960s Mission Impossible show. The reality is less exciting as it stands for Corporation Alcoolés del Caribe, a large-scale producer of spirits who use continuous column stills.

Review

2005 16 year old, 57.1% ABV
£83 and it’s out there now

This Venezuelan rum spent 12 years in its homeland before visiting Europe for 3 years and a month. Fancying one last trip, it ventured to Dumfries in Scotland for a final 12 months soiree. Bottled at 57.1%, the barrel produced 262 bottles.

Nose

Mulled wine? After a couple of whiskies this arrival forces you to think. Wet copper sheets, yellow raisins and walnuts. The given of brown sugar before we jump into peeling varnish, rubbed brass and fresh blueberries. Perhaps its late, but cauliflower, cigars and marzipan.

Palate

A very approachable rum, no funk for those who fear such things. Clear, light and a pleasant lingering finish suggestive of malt vinegar, chocolate and black peppercorns. Actually, tea leaves as well. There’s a melting pot of blueberries and blackcurrants that you might take to be funky, but it never reaches that point. Instead, you’re left to appreciate the roundness of the experience.

Score: 6/10

Review

2007 15 year old, 56.2% ABV
£68 and available now

You should have more time for Dailuaine and I expect you will in the coming years. This long standing Speyside distillery is starting to gather some favour among enthusiasts of indie bottlings, which is great to see as I’ve been highlighting its attractions for some time. Dailuaine’s can be immediately accessible, or require a bit of dedication with a dash of water. The age of this release is around where so many deliver a worthwhile experience, so I’m optimistic.

From a classical Speyside distillery, this 15 year old comes from a hogshead that produced 279 bottles.

Nose

To me this is immediately recognisable as Dailuaine as it lacks an active cask.  The spirit nature and distillery greenness comes through. A creamy foundation, with olives and green apples. Biscuit dough, Weetabix, chilli flakes and caramel wafers. Then, let it sit for a while. Toffee steps into the fore and a little pinot as well. Wood spice, a spicy fudge? Toasted marshmallows and a hint of mezcal.

Palate

All about the texture initially, a little more quelled cask interaction and less spirit; a good balance in other words. Lime jelly, cooking apples and those green jelly babies. Sherbet, sorry I’ll have to get out of the sweet shop into the Mezcal aisle, which is assisted by a gentle smokiness on the finish. There’s also an herbal element I’m struggling to pin down; metallic and yet herbaceous in nature. Oh, dried tarragon, hello. More chilli flakes and a weak tiramisu with those sponge fingers, light coffee influence and cream.

Score: 7/10

Review

2000 21 year old, 55.2% ABV
£90 and out now

Moving onto the big age statement in the outturn and fully matured in sherry as well. I’m looking forward to this as the Highlands are home to some wonderful styles of whisky. More love to the north!

An impressive 21 years for an unknown offering matured in a sherry hogshead and bottled at 55.2%, which produced 308 bottles. The Watt’s have said when faced with such mystery casks, they do like to give hints as to its origins if at all possible. However, this specific cask truly is of unknown origins – perhaps our sensory skills can give us a greater degree of clarity?

Nose

A very charismatic arrival with fruit loaf, wet wood, rolled tobacco and some dulled cinnamon. Penny toffee chews, traces of peach and some honey. Pleasant, engaging but there’s no development beyond these staples. Some of those fig rolls from my childhood days with nanna. I’m also picking up a slight beer element, maybe I’ve been enjoying stouts too much or maybe brown sauce, but there’s a trigger here and chocolate wafer.

Palate

A leisurely sherried dram and more enjoyable for it. A good marriage of cask and spirit. Malt loaf, black peppercorns and flashes of treacle. A wholesome mouthfeel, toffee and integration with the wood. Solid but not as epic as I’d hoped for.

Score: 6/10

Review

2011 10 year old, 57.1% ABV
£45 yes, that’s right!

North British is situated in one of my least favourite areas of Edinburgh, namely Gorgie. An area that is home to a particularly disliked football team. Fortunately, the distillery has no illusions of grandeur and just concentrates on producing (what I believe is) Scotland’s most flavoursome grain whisky. This refill sherry butt (previously held Macallan) produced 540 bottles at 57.1%, from Edinburgh’s finest distillery and arguably Scotland’s best grain producer.

Nose

A rich decadent honeycomb, caramel and dollop of vanilla. The butt isn’t overpowering here, and in the background, you have its influence with diluted orange, cream and a waxed leather armchair. With patience, dried fruits materialise, nougat, popcorn, cask charring and rhubarb.

Palate

This is pretty cool as initially you think the alcohol and grain is going to dominate, but there’s a lovely richness of Highland toffee. Not much of a finish at this age with some lemon peel, but it’s that burst of confectionary that delights. No need for water. A smidge of strawberry jam comes through in what is a very pleasant grain.

Score: 6/10

Review

2018 3 year old, 57.1% ABV
£63 and selling well

My experiences of the Milk & Honey distillery have not filled me with joy, yet. I have no doubt the whisky will come good as we’ve seen with the Golan Heights distillery. Hiring Shilton Almeida as their brand ambassador is a smart move and shows ambition. He is easily one of the most impressive exponents of ambassadorship from his time with Paul John. But the whisky isn’t quite there yet. To give you an example, there’s a café in Dornoch called Milk & Honey and it’s a more enjoyable exponent. So, no pressure then. Just three years on the clock for this increasingly evident Israeli distillery, which resided in a STR (shaved, toasted roasted) barrel producing 319 bottles at 57.1%.

Nose

An oily residue, wet flannel. Toffee and thinking about it, this doesn’t scream youth on the nose. Fig rolls, which I’m assured you can still purchase. Gasoline? There’s something along those lines but not as pungent. All-spice, pulverised clove and ground almonds. Honey cured ham, a low-grade maple syrup. Brown sugar, I’m enjoying this so far.

Palate

The toasted aspect comes through alongside biscuits and a hint of chocolate. This is much better than the Milk & Honey I’ve had previously; sure, the youthfulness comes through on the finish but prior there’s a surprising pleasant experience. Chewy, toffee, sappy, dark brown sugar and some blackcurrant jam.

Score: 6/10

Last Dregs

Overall, an impressive outturn. I found the rum to be an easy going but appreciative experience. I did prefer a rum from an earlier outturn, as I’m a fan of the ester-driven variety. However, in some ways, this is a canny pick as I can see many whisky drinkers sitting down with this and appreciating its qualities.

The Dailuaine won’t be for everyone as it can be a divisive whisky style. I raved about the Cadenhead’s 15 year old, which I know several really enjoyed but a handful felt it was too ‘industrial’ and this was a surprise. I felt its qualities were very apparent. If you like your whiskies that step away from the safety net that ensnares much of Speyside, then this is for you. It’s different and almost Highland in its rugged character. Take your time with it and you’ll come to appreciate its charms.

The mysterious Highlander is a wholesome and enjoyable experience. Yeah, it didn’t meet my expectations which may have been inflated. The reality is a solid and well-priced dram with plenty to enjoy. As for the distillery? Nothing jumps out to me and I’d suggest it is one of the lesser-known Highlander distilleries on your list.

Well, the Milk & Honey exceeded expectations. Perhaps not saying much based on past experiences, but this is a good cask that comes through on the final result. Give it a couple of more years with the spirit and it’ll be turning heads, in a good way.

The North British grain is young, and on paper, you’d think the wrong side of maturity, but I basked in its simplicity and pronounced core flavours. It has an enjoyment factor. For £45, I’d suggest snapping this up even if you’re new to grain. It doesn’t have that harshness you might associated with younger grains that have been thrust into a sherry cask to mask their neutrality and bring a new element of flavour. This North British works well and its ideally priced.

So, what am I saying here? The pick of the bunch is the Dailuaine if you appreciate the style and swagger the distillery can offer. But if you’re more Blur than Oasis, I’d recommend the North British as being a safe bet. 

Images kindly provided by The Dufftown Whisky Shop and The Whisky Exchange.

Tried any of these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM