2009 | 53.1% ABV

Should This Be An Ode To Trying New Distilleries?

A New Year resolution perhaps? Not new as in those producers launching their inaugural releases and charging over the odds for a three year old single malt. This year looks set to be the year of young, overpriced whisky for many. More widespread will be the focus on value. By new, I mean ones that have been around for ages yet you’ve never tried or had that opportunity to do so.

Walking into any retailer nowadays, it’s hard not to be bamboozled by the assortment of single malts from a variety of names, all in different packages, bottle shapes and sizes. Without a guide (or Dramface?) you do the next best thing to navigate such a maze and rely on what you know. That’s understandable as every penny counts and there are few things more disappointing than a purchase that fails to live up to expectations.

That’s something we all appreciated in 2021 when many stepped away from the chase of new releases and sought a simple commodity known as well-priced whisky. Looking back on last year, I know I bought less and yet arguably I’ve purchased better. With bottle splits and sample sharing, I’ve not tasted anything I really wished I had purchased. Perhaps a fortunate accident or just good fortune? With so many single malts being rammed down our necks and across our screens, isn’t it worth stepping back and considering if you really need or want this one?

There’s an irony here as I’m reviewing a release by the Thompson Brothers in Dornoch. In 2021, they bottled 99 whiskies under their engaging independent bottling line, each with a visually alluring label. Releases from the Thompson Brothers – on the whole – sell out very quickly. Part of that can be attributed to colourful labels that bring a touch of style and swagger and much-needed fun to UK independent releases. Combine this with a sense of affordability that some bottlers lack, and you have a tidy proposition.

For full disclosure, I’m one of the admins on the Fans of Dornoch Distillery Facebook group, so I’m fortunate to be able to see the appreciation, demand and behaviours around their releases. Part of the appeal to many is getting the inside scoop; what’s just out, its origins and what others think of a release. There’s a passive element to the membership, and then there are others more engaged, opening and giving their opinions. It’s a mixed bag, one that’s indicative of so many of these groups, but on the whole, good fun.

Anticipating such demand, their releases are balloted with an allocation given to independent bottlers to sell at retail. Many appreciate this two-pronged approach and after the pandemic, it’s important that we support our local independent stores rather than keeping it all to sell directly to consumers. More independents means more choice, more knowledge, more appreciation, more employment and a better environment to exist in as a whisky drinker, or that’s how I view it.

The ballot is unique in the whisky sphere as far as I know. Based on a tier system, the more you open their releases (and email a photograph), the greater your chances are of being successful on a ballot. This excludes the randomness of just filling out a form, or applying across several email addresses – behaviours we see in other ballots. The tiers are kept secret and are underpinned by the expectation you are rewarded for simply enjoying your purchases.

A new form of loyalty scheme? Possibly, as if you stand still others could overtake your status. However, with close to 100 releases last year, and who knows the number in 2022, if you miss out on a bottle there will always be something else. Then, there are the independent shops if you are unsuccessful. The only potential problem is getting started on the ladder yet overall, it’s a novel approach to a growing issue.

Moving on, this piece was all about encouragement to try new things. Whisky is all about discovery and enjoyment. The door to the past is closing on many of us, left only slightly ajar for those with deep pockets. That’s a segment of the market populated by those who can remember the “good old days” and ponder an 87 score versus an 89; stuff like that, which seems increasingly alien to many whisky drinkers. There’s so much more out there deserving of some coverage and my infrequent visits to retailers and bottlers in recent times have underlined a thirst for more coverage.

If you turn off the A9 road at Alness and follow the signposts for Dalmore distillery, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it was the only distillery this village had to offer. The reality is that Teaninich is just a short walk from Dalmore, at the bottom end of an industrial estate. While the new buildings suggest a modern sizeable distillery, its origins on this site go back to 1817. Major renovations from Diageo were completed in 2016 and this is much of what you can see from a distance with a fence keeping you at arm’s length.

Its history is one of revamping and expansion throughout the 1800s and then in 1970, before its more recent work. Sadly, the old part of the distillery was mothballed and subsequently demolished in 1999. Such facts are always disheartening, but this was a different generation and there was less emphasis on retaining historical aspects. Some might say that Diageo has seen the light in recent times with its efforts around Brora, Port Ellen and Rosebank. We’ll see.

Much like that fence that keeps you far from Teaninich, it remains an unknown quantity for many whisky drinkers. Since 2000, it has used a mash filter as opposed to a mash tun; a tool that fills many geeks with more questions than I care to remember. Today’s Teaninich is a sizeable distillery in the Diageo arsenal, an important ingredient of many blends thanks to its cereal and texture-rich character. Its qualities have ensured it a cult-like status that I often subscribe to, with some older releases being especially delightful and still, relatively, well-priced.

Review

Thompson Bros 2022 Release Teaninich 12yo 53.1%ABV

This Teaninich is a vatting of two refill hogsheads, distilled in 2009 and bottled at 12 years of age at 53.1%. The vatting meant a larger outturn of 508 bottles to meet demand that still resulted in a sell-out shortly after release. Check your local independent, as they may have the odd bottle lying around and a decent proportion of their outturns are shipped to retailers. The label is inspired by the nearby Cromarty Firth, where nature is abundant and often draws spectators.

Nose

The arrival is a mixture of wood with pinewood, old dense oak and resin. Dusty porridge oats, pink lady apples and toffee. Next day embers and dirty vanilla. Red berries bring some freshness that had me checking the cask type briefly. Honey, lime and given time, some fatty oils. Adding water removes the wood aspect and unlocks some meadow fruits and grapes. There’s straw, white chocolate and coconut.

Palate

Initially an old cloth with cereals and honey. Charred oak, firewood and a touch drying in places. Wheat and some dulled wine gums hint at promise. It takes water well, unlocking apples, popcorn and buttery oils.

The Dregs

A very solid Teaninich if a little workmanlike in places. The nose is engaging, playful and benefits from a patient approach. The palate itself has texture, and I expect, new qualities as we lower that fill level over the coming months. I’ll be reaching for this quite easily and appreciating its honest qualities.

As for Teaninich, this is the perfect place to start with your discovery and appreciation of that Alness distillery, which lives in the shadow of another distillery. Time to kick out the drams and appreciate what it can offer. 

Score: 6/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM

Other opinions on this:

Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.