Independent Bottling| 54.7% ABV

Can You Break The Code?

Follow your gut, listen to your instincts. This would be my advice to anyone that asked for my thoughts on how to navigate whisky nowadays.

We are faced with a biblical ocean of choice in 2022. A constellation of bottlers, official releases and a mesmerising bombardment of cask finishes and deliveries. Frankly, it’s difficult not to become slightly numbed by the level of choice and in doing so; lost at sea. This is perhaps where we look to a calming influence and safe pair of hands to guide us through the choppy waters in search of a safe harbour and the prospect of discovering something worthwhile before disembarking. Aye, you can tell there’s a nautical theme to today’s whisky; just look at the label.

Having these resources such as a shiny new Dramface, the library that is Whiskybase or to a certain extent Whiskyfun, is of benefit alongside other mediums. In fact, what’s become clear to me in recent times – normally when sourcing links for the bottom of our articles – is that the written medium doesn’t offer enough when it comes to whisky. There was a massive explosion of whisky blogs many moons ago. These have slowly drifted away as individuals who propel them have been priced out of whisky, lost interest or life has simply moved on and become more vested in other things such as marriage, kids, football or even God forbid, gin. After the grand vision for Scotch Whisky dot com, the execution led to that very end as well, and yet, whisky is booming, but not the critiquing, appreciation or debate of the said liquid.

Things change, and after a decade in this sphere, I can confidently state this on the basis of some solid experience. What endures is the provocative power of influence and how it continues to be abused, or at least smudged alongside its usefulness. Freebies are lovely little things, but how often do you see a critical or disappointing review that follows thereafter? It’s a flaw of the human condition. Even on a subconscious level, being treated or made to feel special, incurs unwritten rules and favourable reviews. After a while, regulars began to see that connection and how predictable things become.  

By hook or crook, the website medium has cleaned up its act. Probably by accident if I’m being honest; which is the best policy. Several of the sites that have gone or dropped into stasis have allowed others to prosper. Others have acted as an inspiration or foundation to build upon what existed before. I remember when another site I was involved in began to deliver, we received a lot of criticism from bloggers. In a way, they knew the game was up. Not that they had been rumbled or that this was our intention. We just wanted to be independent (until a tweed-clad ruined that approach) and do our thing. Freebies never guaranteed a good review, some bottlers and distilleries stuck with us, while others dropped us like a hot potato. Obviously, you respect those that see the benefit of working with you and the fairness in being honest. Those that only want to hear or see good, positive things, might as well write the article themselves.

You’ll see the favoured appearing at the opening of a new release, preview night or packet of branded crisps. Nice words will follow, the earth will keep spinning and the next bit of special treatment will come their way. It’s a racket as much as whisky awards on the whole can be. Something that misleads those in need of assistance as much as it is of benefit to a segment of the market that’s bought into a realm of saccharine coated positivity. That’s the scheme of things and God forbid if you start asking questions, as the persona can reveal an ugly side.

But getting back on track here, I opened with following your own instincts. Sure, listen to others and pay attention. Be polite. Even if they are talking pish in your view. Or they have cosy relationships with the bottler/distillery/PR firm or even work in the industry… transparency remains important. To some it is a bad word, a word not to be spoken, but not to a consumer seeking guidance. What prompted this line of enquiry was a recent tasting where I poured this mysterious Highland malt from the effervescent Thompson Brothers. It’s from Loch Lomond, but we’ll come to that in a moment as it’s a key aspect. 

This tasting pour was being universally received with positivity. Sure, it’s well-aged coming in at 21 years and there was an air of mystery about its DNA. Not so much where it came from, but the journey of these two refill barrels that were absolutely knackered – according to the brothers themselves. In reality, little else was known other than through nosing and tasting you could taste an array of wood types in the finished version. Some sherry obviously, bourbon and a wine/port undercurrent that somehow all came together with aplomb – a benefit of putting the score first on our articles is that I don’t need to hide it away for a big reveal. 

One of the attendees hit the group with the bombshell that this release was the lowest rated Thompson Brothers bottling on Whiskybase. This prompted a conversation about whether we dismiss unfashionable names such as Loch Lomond or even mysterious malts labelled Highland, Islay etc. out of hand without giving them a fair shot? Of course, what are people thinking was debated, but we have to consider whether it was a neck pour, small setting or external factors that didn’t grant them the opportunity to appreciate what this whisky has to offer. By the way, this bottle has been open for about eight months, so it has plenty of time to relax and open up. 

Loch Lomond is by definition the most chameleon of Scotland’s distilleries. Able to produce a wide variety of distillate styles. While this freedom offers opportunity and choice, it can also confuse and marginalise some enthusiasts. My recent chat with Michael Henry of Loch Lomond, around their distillates, being a case in point. They might say Loch Lomond on the label, but in theory you’re stepping into a unique assortment that comes from one site.

I’ve not checked since, but I would guess that the Whiskybase page has seen an uplift in scoring. There are marmite drams but this isn’t one of them and normally you know when something is extreme or will divide a room. This Loch Lomond, given the right stage, will deliver a show. It is long gone at retail and might make the odd appearance via the secondary market, if it does then give it an opportunity and see what you think, as I’m glad I certainly did.

Review

Distilled in 2000, 589 bottles, 54.7% ABV
Sold out at retail

Nose

Old floor boards, faded orange peel, peanut brittle, bronze and marmalade. Honey, stale raisins, cinnamon and tinned syrup. Given time, there's old varnish, a Wham bar, carrot peelings, ginger and raspberry jam. Adding water reveals more earthy carrots, chalk dust and amber. Sharing a dram with Rose she commented as well about a granny-vibe which translates into a mustiness and faint rose perfume aroma.

Palate

Buzzing with cranberries, red liquorice, plums and brambles. Chocolate Brazil nuts, fudge and a touch of smoke. Carrots and caramel. Water isn't so successful, more earthy now, with brassy overtones and a wet forest moss.

The Dregs

This is a bottling about faith. Placing your trust in the abilities of those picking the cask and moment to follow it. Sure, you can prefer a certain distillery, style, wood type etc. but there is still a degree of trust involved in the transaction. Using all of your instincts and knowledge won’t guarantee a hit every time, especially with such an oddity of a bottling. They’ll help guide you but with such vattings and single casks, there remains a leap of faith and one I’m happy to make, and in doing so, shake up the rather pedestrian and benign nature of many whisky releases. 

This wild card turned out very well, but others might not please me or everyone. Just be true to yourself as you cannot please everyone even a fraction of the time. Don’t become a caricature of yourself; just let the pour flow and see where your senses and experiences take you.

Score: 7/10

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