Series 16 | 51% ABV

Cast Iron Reliability

What happens when one of Scotland’s coolest independent bottlers delivers a release from one of our more mundane distilleries? That’s what we have today with North Star Spirits and an oloroso hogshead from Glen Moray.

Now, mundane probably comes with some negative connotations but in this context, it’s representing the staple and inoffensive nature of Glen Moray – a distillery that’s happy to offer an affordable price combined with widespread distribution. You know what you’re getting with a Glen Moray and nine times out of 10, it’ll deliver on that promise. That’s not a bad thing and helped it become a solid staple in many households.

Caol Ila is lauded by town criers around the world for being dependable, and there’s a growing fanfare for anything from the Ardmore distillery. In comparison, Glen Moray tends to get a raw deal, but why is that exactly? The lack of peat? Its origins at the bottom supermarket shelves? Or is it something more intrinsic within the liquid itself?  

Fundamentally, there’s a great deal of whisky snobbery doing the rounds, especially in this era of social media. Blends are immediately dispatched because many view them as being inferior and a lesser whisky, harbouring limited depth when in reality there are so many wonderful blends and experiences to be had. The spotlight falls on to single malts with the perception they are more layered, pure and luxurious. And don’t even think about mentioning single grain whisky.

Within the single malt bracket, we have the big guns and bling distilleries. Those that you’re likely to see being touted by some influencer in Miami as being magical and yet the seal on the bottle remains unbroken. The middle of the pack, desperate to be seen and trying too hard. Then, the lesser and ignored distilleries – perhaps 99% engaged in producing for their masters’ blends with the remaining percentage going into a rather tired Fauna & Flora bottling. All fuelled by an unhealthy focus on obscure and rare bottlings that you’ll never see or be able to afford.

Yet we see Glen Moray bottled on a regular basis by independents. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society for instance, seem to have an endless supply of well-aged casks to drop into outturns. These tend to nose well and taste fine, but lack the pizzazz to truly capture the heart. What you also notice is that they (along with releases elsewhere) don’t fly off the shelves. There’s a slow burn; a staggered shuffle towards the sold-out sign. An appreciation and respect that lacks the x-factor to truly sing.

Having attended a few whisky festivals over the years, Glen Moray are always represented on the venue floor with a selection that stretches beyond their core range and a warm welcome. What has been noticeable on a couple of occasions is how word of mouth spreads among attendees. One particular sherried Glen Moray stoking emotions and making it the first bottle to sell out at the festival shop.

So, for many of us, myself included, we’ve yet to find that moment with Glen Moray and have been happy enough with the mundane bottlings that don’t break the bank and offer cast iron reliability

Review

North Star Spirits Glen Moray 2007, 51% ABV
£70 widely available

All of which brings us to this North Star bottling distilled in 2007 and bottled in June 2021. This 14 year old is bottled at 51% and has resided for the full maturation in an oloroso hogshead. Expect to pay around £70 for a bottle and unsurprisingly, this is still available at retail.

Nose

Porridge with grated apples, fresh buttery popcorn and the zing of sherbet. Cinnamon bark, fresh tea leaves and a rich caramel. Tangerines bring some freshness, wood chips and a just baked pain aux raisin.

Palate

sweet peaches, it’s also buttery with apples and red berries. Some dry rubber is in the mix but it doesn’t dominate or detract. The robust sharpness of blood orange, texture wise it is clammy and chewy with persimmons lingering into the finish.

The Dregs

There is much to enjoy on the nose which has so much to offer and still has those core elements of Glen Moray. The palate, initially, was one dimensional, then opens up a little with a patience approach expressing more flavours. If it had continued to express itself and grow in flavours, then we’d be looking at a much higher score.

For the price, £70 is more a reflection of the market and where it’s at right now. Overcoming the Glen Moray inhibitions of the marketplace would have been helped by a slightly lower retail price. Many will see £70 and think of what else they can pick up from a more recognisable distillery.

As far as things go, this Glen Moray isn’t overly sherried, which is greatly appreciated as we see too many sherried whiskies that have been busted open with a thuggish sherry cask. Ultimately a good festive dram and a solid enough sherried expression.

Score: 6/10

Our thanks to Aberdeen Whisky Shop for the image.

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM