Seasonal Series; Bourbon, Oloroso, American oak and Swedish Oak | 46.1% ABV

It Doesn’t Need To Be Bonkers To Get Noticed

If you were to ask someone to name one European whisky distillery outside of Scotland or Ireland, putting your money on the answer being Mackmyra would probably be a safe bet.

The Swedish distillery was established in 1999 and has managed to make a name for itself among enthusiasts, not only because they’re making decent whisky, but also for pushing the envelope in terms of innovation, technology and sustainability. 

Their 121 ft/37m tall vertical distillery is said to be some 20% more fuel (and therefore cost) efficient compared to traditional distilleries, and there are probably very few out there that can boast a deserted underground mine as a warehouse. But, while having developed a series of fairly traditional core range expressions, what probably attracts most attention is Mackmyra’s tendency to experiment with some unusual (sometimes  even verging towards the extravagant) limited expressions in their seasonal releases.

When it comes to these more experimental bottles, the motto ‘anything goes’ seems to apply. Add to that the fact they can claim to be the first distillery in the world to have released a whisky created using artificial intelligence, and I think you’ll agree that Mackmyra is definitely an interesting distillery.

Obviously, ‘interesting’ doesn’t necessarily mean ‘good’ as well, as the proof of the pudding is always in the tasting. I’m all in favour of distilleries trying to push boundaries to see what can be achieved if you don’t care too much about rules, be it legislative or unwritten, as long as the end result delivers rather than being just a gimmick. To quote the late, great Frank Zappa, “Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.”

This recent release in Mackmyra’s limited seasonal series is called Stjärnrök, which translates as Starsmoke – but more of that in a bit. At first glance it appears to be one of the less adventurous from Mackmyra. Allow me to elaborate. After the Grönt Te, which was finished in casks seasoned with green tea, and the Björksav which had been finished in casks seasoned with birch sap wine, it’s almost disappointing to see Mackmyra releasing a seasonal whisky that’s not a bit off the wall, especially when the Grönt Te and the Björksav were well received. As mentioned above, one doesn’t go for weird or unusual finishes just for the sake of it, it has to actually compliment and add something to the whisky, or else it would not only be a marketing gimmick, yet also an abomination unto all things a whisky aficionado holds dear (George Dickel Tabasco barrel finish, anyone?)

Review

Mackmyra Stjärnrök Seasonal Series; Bourbon, Oloroso, American oak and Swedish Oak, 46.1% ABV
£50-60, 17000 bottles

And since we’re covering marketing: what Mackmyra Stjärnrök may lack in terms of extravagant cask finishing, it seems to make up for with its frankly ludicrous name. What on earth were they smoking up there in Sweden when they came up with a name like Starsmoke? Did someone mistakenly grab the wrong jar when they were juniper smoking their barley and use the one containing ‘Amsterdam delight’ someone brought back from vacation instead? A quick quote from their website only adds to the suspicion: “Inspired by enchanting Nordic skies, magic and unknown senses… so became the phenomenon that is Stjärnrök, a whisky born of intrigue, of stardust, of patience, of crystal clear Nordic waters and of innovation.”

As far-fetched marketing goes, that’s dangerously close to entering the Macallan realm. While I enjoy a clever bit of marketing, this is just over the top and takes the focus away from the whisky. In my book, this isn’t a good thing. I understand that in today’s saturated market, getting noticed is key, but there’s such a thing as meaningless flannel. Anyway, here I am, well over 600 words in this review without as much as a single tasting note…

Nose

On the nose, there’s vanilla at first, but it soon gets overrun by notes of decaying autumn leaves and wet cardboard. This may sound pretty unpleasant, but it works quite well. Overripe citrus and orchard fruit, with the apples becoming more prominent over time. There’s a sensation of fresh green forest with juniper and pine trees. Give it some time and the oloroso casks wake up. It becomes warmer with notes of blackcurrant, those ripe red apples and some smoke. Nice and interesting development.

Palate

A dry arrival. Far less sweetness going on, as the juniper-smoked barley translates into a herbal, woody smoky bitterness. Quite young and youthful too, but that’s not a bad thing. The dry mouthfeel develops and becomes more oily, bringing in a leathery-tobacco like chewiness, and again there’s that combination of smoke and autumn leaves. The sweeter vanilla and orchard notes I picked up on the nose are there, but they’re overpowered by the wood notes. As on the nose, in a strange way, it all clicks together and it works rather well.

On the finish, there’s a mild peppery spiciness and that woody-oaky bitterness which transforms into a long, lingering smokiness.

The Dregs

So, a smoky Swede. Yes, but while it’s got character and personality, the smoke always remains mild and connects with the other flavours. Don’t go looking for any smokiness you’ve come to know from Islay or other Scotch for a frame of reference, as that’s nowhere to be found. The juniper-smoked barley is a thing in its own right. If Mackmyra can deliver interesting whiskies such as this, they can put a troll riding an elk, eating a smorgasbord on the label for their next release for all I care. Job well done.

Score: 6/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EA