Knockando 12yo
Official Bottling | 43% ABV
“Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to review a whisky you can still actually buy”
Looking in the cupboards, in the boxes and on the shelves, my initial reaction was that finding inspiration for my first Dramface review would soon evolve into some kind of Mission Impossible.
Now, before you think this Bonnie Pattison lassie is akin to today’s Instagram influencers trying to use this platform as some kind of (ahem) platform to brag about how her whisky ‘collection’ contains so many amazing, hard-to-find, limited edition, rare and, undoubtedly, unopened bottles; fear not.
None of the bottles are particularly expensive (although that, of course, is a purely relative term; whisky is indeed an expensive pastime and becoming increasingly more so) and 99% of them are open. It’s just that very few of the bottles are core range expressions and, in fact, only one could be described as entry level. You see, nearly all the bottles at Bonnie’s abode are small batch, limited releases and/or independently bottled.
So, the question I’m now asking myself is: how come?
Whisky folk often talk about their ‘whisky journey’. Personally, I prefer the term ‘whisky odyssey’. But that’s a lot trickier to say after a few drams. So, we’ll stick with the former. And so, as folk embark on this journey, they’re introduced to (relatively) affordable and risk free, core range expressions. But a journey is – or at least should be – a progression. And very soon, the need to move forward – to explore the realms of cask strength, non-chill filtration and naturally coloured – inevitably beckons. So, with familiarity breeding contempt, we quickly turn our backs on those first whiskies and set out to discover something, perhaps, more glamorous; something seemingly more unusual; something undoubtedly less consistent.
The problem is that for some, today’s world of whisky has become this constant game of one-upmanship; an eternal quest for bragging rights. Mention to someone you’ve tried or bought a particular whisky and the, “Ah, but have you tried the latest McUnicorn 58 years?” retort will inevitably, at some point, come your way. And with the paid for opinions of so-called social media influencers slowly percolating into the real life world of the whisky enthusiast, more and more folk are slowly but surely becoming sucked into this vortex. With every flipper and their granny entering ballots and camping out overnight in front of retailers for the latest limited and/or inaugural release, sometimes that whisky journey can feel more like a very long, whisky trudge.
Yet, of course, we plough on. Because for the genuine whisky enthusiast, the objective of embarking on that quest isn’t to boast about their recent acquisitions. It’s not about littering the various social media channels with image upon image of unopened bottles placed next to a) a full glass of whisky, b) a Rolex watch, c) a cigar, d) a sleek sports car or e) a cleavage. And if you’re really unlucky, sometimes all five. No; for the genuine whisky enthusiast, this is all about appreciation; a constant wish to discover and learn more within a very real community.
And so a return to those whiskies, which instigated this whole adventure, offers a welcome break from the now tedious chore of chasing bottles. Rather than some great trek, pouring yourself a dram from something ‘core range’ now feels more like a leisurely stroll in a familiar neighbourhood. A homecoming perhaps; evoking those same comforting feelings as one’s own bed offers after a fortnight away. Perhaps familiarity can actually breed contentment instead?
Returning to core range releases such as Talisker 10, Bunnahabhain 12 or Old Pulteney 12 often feels like catching up with those old pals you haven’t seen for a wee while. Sometimes they’ve lost or gained a bit of weight; sometimes they’ve changed their name. But, at the end of the day, there’s no pressure. You can just pick up from where you left off all those years ago. And you know what? They’re still pretty good to hang out with.
One such old pal of mine – and the only ‘entry level’ expression in the whisky cupboard – is from the Evil Empire’s Knockando distillery. We first met about 15 years ago when I moved to Scotland and we’ve kept in touch on and off ever since. Our latest catch up was after a recent visit to Johnnie Walker Land in Edinburgh where I picked up another bottle of the 12 years release. You know, just for old time’s sake.
It’s changed its image a little since we last met. Although not exactly a complete facelift, this Knockando has certainly been on the receiving end of a wee bit of Botox. Gone are the vintage declarations although the age statement still stands: matured for 12 years in ex-bourbon casks. Although one of the few Scotch whiskies to be bottled as a single malt (or pure malt) from its early days, the vast majority of the distillery’s output is destined as a key component for the much better known J & B blend, which incidentally, is absolute pish compared to its counterpart of yesteryear. But that’s a whole other article.
Review
Very few details released, 43% ABV
£33-£39 so shop around as its widely available
Nose
Foamy banana sweets from the outset; hints of stewed apples with custard shortly follow; there are notes of fresh fruit cocktail together with vanilla cake mix; this isn’t overly complex but it’s quite inviting nonetheless.
Palate
Notes of Malted Milk biscuits from the start followed by Dairy Milk chocolate buttons; those apple notes from the nose appear after a while, becoming more like apple crumble and vanilla ice cream; there are hints of cinnamon and ginger heading into the finish which, while not abrupt, isn’t overly long.
The Dregs
This isn’t the most complex whisky you’ll encounter; a ‘whisky for drinking, not thinking’ as someone once said to me. However, if you’re looking for an easy-going dram to start the evening with, rather than some intense whisky to over analyse, this hits the mark: a light and refreshing yet solid dram.
Score: 5/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. BP