Official Bottling | 46% ABV

Uncharted Territory

The goal for Kilkerran was always the 12-year-old as this was the suggested target when the stills were fired up in 2004 after being dormant for so long at Invergordon. Campbeltown was ushering in the third distillery and keeping its regional status with the bureaucrats in Edinburgh. It was only a matter of time until that goal was achieved.

Let’s backtrack a little to 2000, which might be before your time depending on when you discovered whisky, or more precisely, Campbeltown. There was a great deal of anticipation when the old distillery site was purchased at the turn of the millennium. Eager excitement. Perhaps too much looking back? As a society, we want what we crave yesterday, not a decade or even longer down the line. Expectations grow, boil and in some cases fester; no matter the outcome some will always feel let down.  

We’ve seen and experienced the promise of the Glengyle distillery in its earliest forms, thanks to the successful and well-received, Work In Progress series that kicked off in 2009. The potential was abundantly clear in liquid form. The skill of the part-time distillery team from Springbank was never in question - just the long wait and the unknown outcome. The Work In Progress releases gave us hope, strong foundations and a direction. Time is the bane of most whisky enthusiasts, shareholders and distillers. The rewards of a long approach are something we may have forgotten about in today’s era of three-four year-old whiskies, elaborately packaged with STR this and that. Those whiskies are the hares of the whisky genre and Glengyle is the tortoise.

Reaching any goal brings satisfaction, but rarely much consideration as to what awaits next? Do you just leave it intact and try to continuously improve the 12 year old through a series of annual releases and harness its full potential? Or do you press ahead? Redouble your efforts and forage into the wilderness to see what else lies out there?

For the team at Glengyle, they’ve left behind the 12 (which remains a favourite) and upped the ante with the Kilkerran 16 year old. Debuting in 2020, it was met with considerable excitement and then a sense of disappointment when the whisky didn’t meet those aforementioned expectations. The important aspect is to consider what these were? The 16 year old was never going to be a cask strength beast, or ferocious. The classic 12 year old gave us a hint of what it might represent. Understated, assured and a slow burner. The 12 year old will go down as a classic and I don’t use such a phrase without a protracted internal debate. Time will always tell in the end and it’s a staple for many already.

Back to the quest for the 16 and in 2020, it ticked many of the boxes. Value being most prominent and to some lingering in a dark and dingy corner of the market, the sense of status and profit. Those that I know who were fortunate to purchase a bottle and subsequently opened it, weren’t blown away by the experience. Nor were they dismissive of the release with some suggesting it was a pitstop on a longer journey, to somewhere unknown currently.

Review

2021 Kilkerran 16yo Official Bottling, 46% ABV
£60 at retail

The 2021 edition is bottled at 46% and retails for around £60 – note some retailers are charging way over this which is a topic for another day – it’s the oldest expression from this consistently excellent, Campbeltown distillery. Perhaps the age statement alone causes us to believe this is the pinnacle, never mind the Springbank shaped bottle? Speaking of which, the code on this is 15/09/21 21/134 and the cask makeup is 75% bourbon matured and 25% sherry.

Nose

Light coastal peat persists throughout with a healthy portion of sea salt. Vanilla marshmallows, flat lager and wet metal sheets. White chocolate, plain flour, candied orange, sparkling mineral water and grapefruit. There’s also spiced apples and freshly plucked root ginger.

Palate

Initially, this felt neutral with a gentle peat lingering into the finish. Again and again, more drams were poured. Sea salt, chalky, black peppercorns, an old chocolate brownie and melon. Bashed mint leaf, wet bark, saline and sooty. Red apples and green pepper.

The above notes were taken when I purchased and opened the bottle about four months ago. Since then, I’ve returned to it occasionally with good company, happily pouring and enjoying what I’m having without spending too much time dissecting its contents. For the purposes of this piece, I thought it might be interesting to see where it stands now in comparison.

Immediately on the nose, it feels more appley and fresh vanilla now. Mouldy wood? Is that a thing? You know those old decayed planks that are starting to crumble and are more of a danger than of any practical use? I can still sense some of the original aromas above, but they’ve retreated. The peat is still there smouldering in the background with a twist of lemon. But there are no new revelations other than the apple aspect. Moving on to the palate, it feels very much like the status quo once again and a solid sipper that doesn’t grab you somewhere and demand your attention.

The Dregs

Overall, I’m torn on this second Kilkerran 16 year old, just like the 2020 bottling.  The pricing is excellent and rewards the consumer. Even so, I’m left debating the need for this 16 when the 12 year old already achieves a strong standard in this realm.

At 46% this feels a little restrained, thin on texture and not a huge leap forward. It’s a solid, easy-drinking whisky that for around £60 is an easy purchase. Yeah, finding it of course remains problematic – just like anything else shipping out of the Springbank estate these days; it’s certainly not worth fighting or losing any sleep over. I’d just love to see this at 50% or with more sherry influence, or something else to give it an unexpected twist. It lacks a foothold, thrust and charisma to truly captivate. I’ll reach for a dram and enjoy its honest pleasures, but it’ll never ignite a passion or stir the soul and that’s the x-factor that we’re all seeking for a memorable moment, whether or not you’re in uncharted territory.

Score: 6/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM

Wally’s Notes

Nose

Bright and sweet citrus and green apple compete with caramels and a little oak. This nose is cooling; like menthol and eucalyptus. Citrus persists, lemon oil and a light, green vine note. A puff of smoke and light soot. A drop of water brings more soot and a little comforting dunnage note and old dusty books. Some white pepper too.

Palate

The arrival here is pleasant with weight and good body, although it feels a little ‘simpler’ than the previous release which was far more mineralic start to finish. This takes a sip or two before the citrus defines itself as a sweet lemon. There’s coal dust, but the development is all about the spice; nutmeg maybe but something hotter too, like cinnamon, cayenne pepper or chilli flakes. More smoke and soot teases, but it’s light. A drop of water loosens the spice a little and helps the fruit along too, not much of that oak note from the nose. I prefer this neat. The empty glass gives up the smoke as if it was trying to hide in the liquid, along with some lime leaves and more faint dunnage notes.

The Dregs

Sipping this in contrast after this review was complete (after a Torabhaig 2017) did this both a favour and a disservice. The weight and body shone, and it was fuller and sweeter than earlier that day when I sampled it for review, but the smoke evaporated despite being prominent the first time around. This time I needed the empty glass to give up the tell-tale sooty peat residue. I have to say the 2020 release was an incredible whisky for me, while this remains strong, it’s not quite as standout as last year’s. Still, it’s great whisky and easy to love and enjoy.

Wally’s score: 7/10 Very good indeed.

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