Càrn Mòr Strictly Limited | 47.5% ABV

A Worthwhile Marriage?

Nothing lasts forever and that’s certainly true in whisky when it comes to a good thing.

The enjoyment comes from exploring each pour with a sense of being in the moment. As soon as the seal is broken, the countdown begins to the annihilation of the contents when the last drop falls into the glass. Unless you’re lucky to grab a bottle or two, the end is very much in sight. It’s what takes place before the final curtain comes crashing down that unites much of the whisky community. The appreciation, discussion and another pour, please.

The same can be said for independent bottlers. Those who select casks and bring us such an assortment of liquid treasures and oddities that don’t turn out so well. Some bottlers chug away doing their own thing, while others hit a run of form that ignites a passion among enthusiasts. Cadenhead’s hasn’t been as strong as it once was and Gordon & MacPhail set sail over the horizon with their expensive releases.

For a while in 2020 or thereabouts, Càrn Mòr was really knocking it out of the park with a series of outturns that defined value and quality. Looking back now, there were some crackers that were chased down, sold at auction and poured until the last drop. Heady times indeed and we can look back on that period, not with rose-tinted glasses, but rather a sense of satisfaction and enjoyment.

Things change. That’s always the case. A new look, prices slowly creeping up and more varieties of casks being utilised. The realisation that the value aspect has been jettisoned somewhat and things were slightly overpriced. Yeah, slightly, in most cases that’s true, although there’s a deep intake of breath when we come to the 1988 Glen Garioch. Bottled at 32 years of age, this formed the centrepiece of the newish luxury range called the Family Reserve. 

The price? Well, it did come in a fancy wooden box. How much do you think this should retail for? You’ll never guess. As a friend commented, they thought Decadent Drinks were taking the proverbial with a similarly aged Glen Garioch that was dubbed as old-school-Garioch, hit the shelves at £499. A relative bargain compared to the Family Reserve at £2900. Yep, that’s £2900. If you’re tempted, there does seem to be availability online, which goes to show just how out of touch the pricing truly is.

Even more damning was the presence of another 32 year old Glen Garioch as part of a rival’s Old and Rare series. The price of this particular release? Just £395. Needless to say, whatever bottles remained were promptly snapped up. Perhaps to see what the fuss was about or potentially for auction if prices did suddenly increase.

Animosity is never a healthy emotion. It’s best dispatched as soon as it arrives. One does question if seeing such excesses will tarnish the brand image. Only time will tell. As much as we’d like to bring you a review of the aforementioned Garioch, we’re going back to the roots of Càrn Mòr and something more practical and affordable. 

We’re in Speyside for a visit to the often-delightful Glenlossie distillery. A true workhorse and a fine single malt when given the opportunity to showcase its own produce. Highly regarded by blenders (who rate it as being top class), very little of Glenlossie makes it out as a single malt. Sure, there’s the Fauna & Flora offering which is a rather safe and inoffensive affair. Much like Blair Athol – another favourite of blenders – around 99% of Glenlossie’s production is destined for blends. Leaving very little for elsewhere, so when it appears, it does prove popular.

This particular Càrn Mòr release is a vatting of several casks resulting in a 12 year old, distilled in 2009 and an outturn of 1603 bottles – so everyone has the opportunity to grab one, which is welcome. Bottled at 47.5%, the whisky has been fully matured in red wine barriques and will cost around £65 depending on where you shop. We’d love to know more about the cask origins. Generally, these details are rarely forthcoming across the industry for a variety of reasons, as Bruichladdich will testify to, so red wine it is. My thanks to @haddyscouser for the sample and photograph.

What about red wine casks? The quality seems to vary greatly. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society used to deploy such vessels as a hammering tool, shifting inept whisky in a new direction and engulfing the contents to a mixed result. You need to be careful when using red wine casks. Their novelty is weaning and consumers are becoming more cautious, and rightly so.

Review

2009 Glenlossie bottled in 2021, 47.5% ABV
£66.99

Nose

Wet wood, tangerines and spent tobacco. Figs, fruit loaf, raspberry and new copper sheets. There’s also red liquorice, hazelnuts, milk chocolate and marzipan.

Palate

Quite tart in places with more red liquorice, blood orange, vanilla and red grapes. Also, mace and rolled tobacco. A pleasant enough texture and there’s no need to add water here.

The Dregs

Not a fan overall, there’s nothing memorable about this whisky. It has that meh feeling, failing to deliver and feels stuck in a rut somewhat. Not one you’ll look back on with any longing need to repeat the experience. If I’m trying to be positive, the red wine cask hasn’t outstayed its welcome or been too forceful. The whole thing feels somewhat stuck in neutral and the clutch is wasted. Nice to try, but certainly not to buy.

Score: 4/10

Our thanks to Luvians for the photograph.

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