1987| 43.9% ABV

A Fallen Comrade

As I write, it’s only five days until the launch of this new vision we have as a community focused whisky destination. We’re almost there and all the hard work is coming together. I’m scanning the amassed ranks that are sitting patiently, waiting for the 17th February.

You’d think there was pressure or some form of excitement? Yes, elsewhere within the team, but I’ve been through this before, haven’t I? Indeed, there's an obvious gap in what we’ve got prepared. I’ve been eagerly preparing other material that I’ve overlooked the Edinburgh branch of Cadenhead’s, which is my go-to shop in Scotland. Bit of an own goal admittedly, but we still have time…

Now, I know that some of my enthusiastic whisky enthusiasts are a little bit despondent about all things Cadenhead’s these days. The decline of the London shop in their eyes (I haven’t been recently) might legislate for a proportion of the critics. Others point to more recent outturns and some heavy-handed finishing – in fact the reliance on finishing lately and he lack of endowed age statements and the inevitable price rises. These are all valid reasons in the eyes of the beholder and I can feel some sympathy with those that remember the good old days, or whatever they were called. We were spoiled for several years and our wallets hammered.

Things change, because that’s life and it's not always for the best. I know I haven’t been a frequent visitor to the shop lately. That’s a mix of pandemic and my weekends spent in the company of my son. However, if I am in town, then it’s the place to go. The finishes that I’ve had – for the most part – I’ve enjoyed. Prices are going up everywhere and compared to others in the market, Cadenhead’s still offer good value; you just have to shop a little smarter. Yep, some releases vanish quicker than a professional tennis player after a tweet, but reappear further down the line.

So, I’ve grabbed a bottle from my den that should tick several boxes. It has a strong age statement and comes with a gold label for all the influencers out there. I’ve even been kind enough to have broken the seal already. I’ve returned to this bottle now and again over the past year or so. Bottled by Cadenhead’s, it fills the aforementioned void and also takes us into the marginalised and dismissed world of grain whisky. Well, I don’t ignore grain and you shouldn’t either, so we’ll start with a Caledonian, which is a closed distillery that was situated in the Haymarket area of Edinburgh.

Caledonian is one of my favourite grain distilleries that we’ve lost to the history books. People have less reverence with grain producers. One by one, they’ve been shut down and production shifted elsewhere. For Diageo, its focus is on Cameronbridge to produce the majority of its bulk spirit and this has come at the expense of several distilleries over the decades. The current situation is that Cameronbridge has become so vast, that in times of over production and a decline in demand, it has been mothballed temporarily, rather than being run at a reduced capacity. The plant is geared towards volume as a drive-by will confirm by its sheer size.

Several of the main players involved in blends retain their own grain distillery, such as Invergordon or Girvan. Others may have a partial interest in North British, or retain the necessary stills on site. It’s clear that grain distilleries are becoming larger but also fewer in number. We’re losing the quirks that signified a certain style of grain whisky, often implemented by the raw grain material they rely upon. Of the current crop, I’ve found North British the most flavoursome, Invergordon to display real promise in later years and Strathclyde does surprise. Girvan lacks substance and Cameronbridge just feels too neutral; my personal opinion of course.

Fortunately, the lost grain distilleries are still relatively affordable. Names such as Port Dundas and Cambus deserve your attention. Even rarer still, are the North of Scotland and Carsebridge. For today, we’re sticking with Caledonian, an epic distillery that once produced malt in its early form before embracing grain. If you’ve taken a train ride into Edinburgh and stopped at the Haymarket station, then you’ll have seen a glimpse of what’s left and the distillery and its size.

Now residential housing, you can see some of the old buildings and even take a walk around the site if you feel the need to connect with the past. I suspect not many do, as the distillery isn’t revered as Port Ellen, nor is it making a comeback. That’s the unfortunate legacy of grain. We don’t get hot under the collar, spend big bucks on finding a bottle or go weak at the knees with the prospect of a pour. Such behaviours just leave more whisky to enjoy for those that appreciate its qualities.

As I mentioned, I’ve been enjoying this Caledonian since its release and you can still purchase it via Cadenhead’s for£139.99, which reflects how many feel about grain. Pricewise it ain’t too bad for a lost distillery and a 33 year age statement. If Diageo were bottling this as an official Cally, the price would be in excess of £500, as they released a 40 year old for £750; unsurprisingly it is still available.

Review

192 bottles, bourbon hogshead, 43.9% ABV
£139.99

Nose

A classic grain arrival soft vanilla, buttery, honey and grapefruit. Nougat, stewed apples and sawdust. Some nutmeg and well-faded orange. Caramel, marzipan, lemon sponge cake and porridge. Adding water reveals a lovely creamy vanilla, white cap button mushrooms, plasterboard and rice pudding.

Palate

Very soft and whisper-like and thankfully not dominated by the cask. Digestives, oats, vanilla and towards the end, toffee. A delightful buttery, oily texture. Coconut ice and raisins. Bitter chocolate, honeycomb and wood spice suggesting its age. The addition of water reveals whipped vanilla cream. Overall, a well balanced and lovely grain.

The Dregs

Water lifted this one up a notch and the score initially, now the bottle is half full, I don’t think it needs a drop of water as its opened up nicely. This Caledonian represents very easy drinking, approachable and stylish in places. A whisky that improves the further you get into the bottle. Not the richest or most detailed Caledonian I’ve had by far, but still, plenty to enjoy. A mellow, refined elder statesman with a story to tell; you just have to ditch the single malt snobbery and enjoy what’s in front of you.

Score: 7/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM