Official Bottlings| 46% ABV

What Difference Does Peat Make?

These days, everyone seems to be into peat or sherry. Add a touch of sherry-wood, some sprinkles of peat, or a combination of both to your whisky and it’ll surely sell better and at higher prices than its bourbon-matured and unpeated siblings. There must be something about these wooden planks and this boggy stuff that works some kind of magic and throws fairy dust into the consumer’s eye. On this occasion, I leave aside the sherry thing for another time as I’d rather consider the question what difference peat makes. Islay whiskies are best-sellers – including Octomore which is almost revered like an icon by some – several Speyside distilleries have added peat to their portfolios, while some of the new distilleries such as Raasay and Torabhaig seem to rely heavily on their ppm as they strive to make a name for themselves. All aboard the peat train!

The question about peat and the difference it makes came to my mind when I came across the latest release from Arran: The Machrie Moor 10, which has recently hit the market. I was aware of the range already, but I wasn’t very fond of it. So, the first question that initially came to my mind was, quite simply: Why? Why a peated Arran? We will get back to this question later.

Initially, the peat trick worked well with me as Arran had piqued my curiosity. Just say peat, and I’m all ears. The possibility to taste the Machrie Moor 10 side by side with the Arran 10 and to compare them was very appealing as both whiskies differed only in peat at first sight. The Machrie Moor 10 and the Arran 10 that I’ll review here were both distilled around 2011 in the same stills. They were matured on the same premises and bottled at the same age and ABV. So I saw a great chance to explore what difference peat makes.

Of course, we already know that peat makes a difference. I won’t get into production and marketing details here, as I am more interested in exploring the differences in smell and taste between the two drams. Peat adds a smoky or ashy layer to the aroma and flavour, and it can have a strong impact. It’s not only about the smokiness, peat also leaves its traces in other aspects of the whisky and can change flavour or texture in many ways. Whether that’s for the better or not depends on personal tastes and predilections – ‘Über Geschmack lässt sich nicht streiten.’ (There is no point in arguing about taste) as the German saying goes. Nevertheless, we can try to taste the difference and figure out what difference peat makes in our nostrils and on our palates.

Founded in 1993, the Lochranza distillery is rather new in town – at least it was so until new distilleries started mushrooming over the last few years. In its relatively short life, the distillery has built and maintained a good reputation among whisky drinkers.

Located on the beautiful isle of Arran, situated in the Firth of Clyde between Ayr and Campbeltown on Scotland’s west coast, the Lochranza distillery is nestled in a lush landscape. As such, the distillery has become a tourist attraction and receives more than 100,000 visitors per year. Meanwhile, its good reputation among whisky drinkers stems not from its location, but from the range of Arran whiskies the distillery produces and puts out for decent prices.

In general, Arran is a rather sweet and fruity style of whisky which does well with when matured in a variety of wood, with the distillery also having a popular ‘cask finish’ range in its portfolio alongside its core range. I’d say that Arran has made a name for itself thanks to its formidable (but presently discontinued) Arran 14 and the much-sought-after Amarone Cask Finish. 

To diversify their range and to offer something to the peat-heads, Arran also distils peated malt and sells it under the Machrie Moor name. Until recently, Machrie Moor had two standard expressions: a NAS version at 46% and another NAS version at cask strength. Now, we also have the Machrie Moor 10. However, it’s not likely that the Machrie Moor series is here to stay. Isle of Arran Distillers recently invested in its future and built another distillery on the island. The Lagg distillery was just opened and will mainly produce peated malt while Lochranza distillery will focus on its unpeated output. As Lagg is going to bottle their whiskies under the ‘Lagg’ name, it’s likely Machrie Moor will be exiting the scene in the near future. I’m very much looking forward to tasting Lagg whisky as I really enjoyed their new-make.

Meanwhile, I’m still left pondering the question why so many distilleries have recently added peated expressions to their ranges. Peat certainly adds variety. As production processes become ever more controlled and automated, there’s not much room left for distinction or surprises. So, producing a peated version adds some difference to an otherwise largely homogeneous field. In turn, it’s become kind of gratuitous to opt for peat as everyone seems to be doing it. 

Peat is also good for marketing – it’s something to hook the aficionados but also helps to sell a rugged and bold version of a familiar whisky. This is all good. Tastes differ, curiosity is a fine experience, and it’s always nice to explore. Peat also seems to work well for their businesses as consumers are obviously not only eager to buy and try the peated versions, but also ready to pay significantly higher prices for them. These are some answers to my question why. Yet, as far as I’m concerned, I’d rather see distilleries getting back to developing a distinct profile for their whisky and spending their efforts on meticulously crafting and maturing a whisky of their own instead of just another range of ‘smooth and mellow’ or ‘smoky and bold’ versions of themselves.

Review

Bottle Code L 14 11 21, non-chill filtered, no colouring, 46% ABV
£40 widely available

But let’s get back to my initial question as I want to figure out what difference peat makes. To this end, I’ll taste the Arran 10 and the Machrie Moor 10 in comparison and explore their similarities and differences.

Full disclosure: I have purchased bottles of both whiskies for this review and shared them with other members of my whisky group.

Nose

The Arran 10 is soft and pleasant on the nose which comes straight from a bowl of fruit salad made from green apples and pears and sweetened with honey blossom. A spoon of custard, a squeeze of lemon, and a dash of perfume top it off. Chamomile tea adds another interesting layer to the mix.

Palate

The texture is creamy while there’s apple sauce with custard and honey blossom. Lemony shortbread with coconut flakes, and that tea note also transfers to the palate. The finish is short and warming.

Review

Bottle Code L 06 02 22, non-chill filtered, no colouring, 46% ABV
£55 widely available

Nose

Initially, I am reminded of a smouldering log that’s already covered with ashes. Lots of fruit - in particular pears and grapes. There’s some vanilla, with floral and rubbery notes, as well as some metallic hints. The different aromas are not well-integrated, and it’s all a bit odd.

Palate

The whisky is round and mellow but quickly waters down on the palate. Cold smoke and ashes come together with soft fruits, and mango. The notes from the nose also transfer to the taste, while the finish is medium length and continues the same odd mixture of different notes that don’t mingle well with one another. The whole experience is odd but not entirely off-putting.

The Dregs

The Arran 10 is certainly worth the money. It’s an easy sipper with some depth to it. I wouldn’t spend hours dissecting the flavours and aromas, but I’d certainly pour it for friends who are not into whisky to familiarise them with the spirit. Hopefully, the Arran 14 will be back on the market once my friends have learned to appreciate Arran as well.

The Machrie Moor 10 leaves me disappointed. I had high expectations as I enjoyed its sibling and hold Arran whisky in high regard. The Machrie Moor 10 is all over the place, disintegrated, and quickly falls apart on the palate. There are too many odd notes which left a bad taste in my mouth. While their experiment with peat initially seemed interesting, I’ve now satisfied my curiosity and quenched my thirst for this one.

On to the comparison: What difference does peat make? Let’s start with the similarities so that we can clearly mark out the difference between these two whiskies. Both the Arran 10 and the Machrie Moor 10, are based on a light and pleasant spirit. Both malts show the ripe pears I usually also find in other whiskies from this distillery, and both have a floral touch to it I would also associate with the house style of Lochranza distillery. 

The vanilla aroma I get in both might possibly stem from their maturation in the same bourbon casks. So, both whiskies do have certain things in common, but I would never have guessed they were from the same distillery if I had savoured them in a blind tasting. 

Obviously, peat does make a difference. The Machrie Moor 10 has a prominent note of a smouldering bonfire and there’s a taste of mango to it that I also get in other peated whiskies. The Arran 10, meanwhile, is strong on apples which I didn’t find in the Machrie Moor 10. The shortbread and the chamomile tea of the Arran 10 have been supplanted by the smoke and ashes, and I’m not entirely sure what to make of the Machrie Moor’s rubbery note. The Arran 10 seems more mature than its peated and slightly metallic sibling. The Arran 10 is well-integrated, the Machrie Moor 10 is not. In case of the Machrie Moor 10, the peat seems to have resulted in a wilder spirit that has not yet been tamed by its 10-year maturation.

Of course, a flight of two whiskies is in no way sufficient to generalise about peat and the difference it makes – except for the smoke and ashes which I’d suspect to be everybody’s first guess. Nevertheless, it was interesting to explore what difference peat makes in Arran. Maybe, we should continue our explorations on the Isle of Mull?

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. AC

Other opinions on this:

Ralfy (Arran 10)

Recycled Reviews (Arran 10)

Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.

Thanks to Arran Distillery for Machrie Moor image.